Nothing special to go ga-ga over at the collections
The buyers came, not exactly in droves, true, but still in a reasonable number, to see what Indonesian designers had to offer at Bali Fashion Week (BFW) V, held from May 27-29 in Nusa Dua.
The opening day featured Dina Midiani's collection "A Cup of Taste Java". Dina is a crafty designer who has a nice, easy take on batiks. Her mixed up motifs in comfortable cottons are perfect resort wear pieces. Even better are her wicker bags in the shape of a bowl, hat or in a round design with a long strap.
The only misstep were the pointy-toed sandals, which made the models look like those girls who only bring one pair of shoes on their vacation.
Lenny Agustin showed a lot of promise in her edgy "Tribal Beauty" evening wear collection. The Jakarta designer found inspiration in Indonesia's "uncivilized" places, which was interpreted in the sexy, mystical mood she conjured through her gowns, using silk satin, chiffon, tulle in dark maroons, blacks and bronze.
A see-through frock with hanging thick silk threads around the chest and a scribble-like open back was an eye catcher, as was an open chiffon top with a beaded bandeau bra.
Origami Di Citta was the title of the collection of Bali's darling designer, Oka Diputra. True to his trademark Japanese style, he put together a mature, high quality collection in silk crepe and tulle. One particular long pink skirt in sakura print looked divine, with its origami style fold on the back making a sweeping tail.
Most of the pieces, though, were over the top; women today do not crave the look of a modern-day geisha, right? Well, Oka might just be the one to prove me wrong. Already owning three boutiques on the island, he plans to triple his business in five years. So there!
The second night of the fashion shows brought in an altogether grander pack. Famed Hong Kong designer William Tang opened the show with his muse, top Hong Kong model Li Ai, in a sexy mini number. In the first part of the show, Tang presented understated chic in black and brown Chinese silhouettes. Then, he cleverly threw in pretty, bright, fluorescent colored numbers to the delight of the surprised audience.
The feminine, super-light and sensual silk satin Chinese dresses with double dare, figure-hugging high slits were followed by a series of elegant ballgowns. Cut out tulle, pasted together like a collage in an A-line gown, and a Chinese collar capelet were both stunners. It's clear why his was the best collection of BFW, doing Asian-inspired flair in a sheer modern finish.
"It (BFW) is so much more relaxed than Hong Kong Fashion Week and that's great! Fashion should be like this, fun, enjoyable," said Tang after showing off his "In the Mood for Love" January collection, with some added new pieces.
"Shanti" by BFW founder Mardiana Ika was an upbeat, ethnic contemporary collection from her Ika line. One of Indonesia's most original designers, Ika is expert at making rich, complicated details look easy on the eye. Long skirts or pants with sexy tops and bias dresses were youthful, all in black and white, as well as muted hues such as pinks, mauve, blues.
Paisley prints were mixed with other patterns. Lycra nettings, chiffon and jacquard got makeovers piping, pleated, beaded or patchwork detailing. Mix and match textures and patterns are what she does best.
Newcomer Eny Aryani is worth mentioning with her "Allure Garcons" funky but very wearable collection. The all black and gray creations had a slight hint of Asian-inspired looks, like the oh-so flattering wrap dress with short, kimono style arms. Also memorable was her satin bow-on-hips accented cotton dress that was simply a winner. With her great techniques, poised designs and, hopefully, more confidence to experiment, she will be an exciting designer to watch.
The show closed with Romanian designer Catalin Botezatu, who also showed his neon colored beachwear collection for men earlier in the evening. The beginning of his women's collection was impressive, with intensive embroidery of Thai-inspired scenery knee length coats, dresses and pants with beaded details. But the beaded chiffon gowns that followed were truly amateurish compared to almost any of Indonesia's designers.
The third day was a compilation of accessories, Muslim wear, bridal and ready to wear collections. Shoe label Linda Chandra made some pointy Alibaba flats, adorned with a jewel centerpiece in blue, white and silver; they were interesting and adorable. Unfortunately, though, it seems like Indonesia still has not found its Manolo Blahnik when it comes to high heels -- they always look cheaply made and poorly designed.
Closing the event, Sofie and Taruna both displayed fun, alluring collections in geometric patterns using fabrics that were woven on Kalimantan. The two collections were wearable, flirty and tongue-and-cheek, very last season Sex and the City. Sofie's designs are for the younger market (sporty, soft colors) and Taruna's collection for the older socialite, with smart color combinations, like a bright eggplant purple top with leaflet green trousers. Look for Taruna's version of the capelet, a.k.a the new pashmina.
Still, I was left deep in thought after the fashion shows, searching for a theme, some kind of new trend to be giddy about or those must-have pieces that women would go ga-ga for from the 55 participants. There were no "wow" moments, nothing that left me drooling in my seat, no climax to get excited about.
It was not that the week was so terrible, but there just was not enough originality, imagination and direction to begin with. Some designers were still doing remakes of such overdone trends as the bohemian look, or last year's bat-wing tops. For men, the choices were either "primitive" island wear, or its "city" alternative, with bright colored shirts and patchwork skinned pants that are too flamboyant for most men.
Perhaps what the show needed was a couple of Indonesian superstar designers, or powerhouse labels like Seba, Biyan, Didi, Eddy or the other usual suspects. Where were they, anyway? Although it is refreshing to see some new names out there, it's a pity that some of the best designers this country has to offer will be missing when the world sees the event on FTV.
How is the industry going to progress if it cannot stick together? The complex, ultra-sensitive Indonesian fashion "ecosystem", defined by a lack of camaraderie and the preservation of order, has slowed its industry down much more than anyone would admit.
It is a rude awakening to realize how successful fashion weeks are in countries such as Hong Kong and Thailand. Buyers will come -- right here to our homeland, no need for us to go elsewhere -- when they think the trip is worth taking. If only we could all check our egos at the door and get real!
-- Agatha Belinda