No signs of economic crisis in West Java's Dukuh village

No signs of economic crisis in West Java's Dukuh village

By Kafil Yamin

PAMEUNGPEUK, West Java (JP): Fuss about the present economic
squeeze is not heard of here. Women in the village are busy
cooking. Their husbands are at work in the fields, while their
children play in a vast garden. Next to the garden, two naked
children swim happily in a pool.

This is the scene one sees in Dukuh village, an enclave
inhabited by 43 families on a hilltop of Cijambe, Pameungpeuk, a
subdistrict in the southern coastal area of West Java.

Dukuh residents seem to have no economic problems because they
have no possessions to which the term "economic" can be referred.
No electricity. No television sets or radios. No utensils made of
glass or other products of "modern" times.

They do not posses them not because they cannot afford them,
but because these things are deemed taboo. "Radio, television and
the like are seen as being the products of the kafir (infidels).
So they see them as haram (unlawful in Islam), irrespective of
our discontent," said Uung Supyadi, 57, former village head of
Cijambe who is also a member of a Dukuh family.

They produce their own utensils -- cups, plates and spoons --
made of coconut shells, bamboo and wood. Any glassware is
forbidden.

For their livelihood, they cultivate a piece of land within
their area with vegetables, spices, staple foods, paddies and
many kinds of fruit. The land is communal property and managed
and utilized together. Harvests are stored in a public warehouse.
The village leader distributes the harvests to every family.

"There is no such thing as private property here, except wives
and offspring," said Masfullah, 52, the Dukuh tribe head.

In most aspects of life, Dukuh people do almost everything
together. When a newly married couple needs a house, neighbors
will come to voluntarily take part in the house construction.
Housing is uniform, with walls being of plaited bamboo and the
roof of coconut leaves.

Couples who want to build "contemporary" houses would be asked
to live outside the village.

Next to the housing compound is the cemetery where the Dukuh's
ancestors are buried. One of them is the community's founding
father, Syeikh Abdul Jalil, a religious leader who draws visitors
from distant places even today.

It is believed that faithful visitors can ask for luck,
blessings and good fortunes from him. Visitors must perform a
spiritual purification before paying tribute to his grave.

They bathe in a sacred pool and then wear special clothes,
which are provided by the tribal leader. Visitors who are
government employees or wear military uniforms are strictly
forbidden.

Supyadi explained that there is an historical reason for this:
"In the past, government employees served the colonial rulers.
They were regarded as kafir and even enemies. The attitude
prevails until today."

Women visitors are not allowed to wear gold accessories
whatsoever.

History

According to Masfullah, the Dukuh people have maintained this
simple life for some four centuries. The history of this village
can be traced back to the latter part of the 16th century.

Back then, there was kingdom in Sumedang, West Java, which was
a fiefdom of the Central Java-based Mataram kingdom. Dalem Raga
Gempol, the king of Sumedang, needed a district chief to assist
him. The king's choice fell to the then popular Abdul Jalil.
Being a faithful Moslem, however, Jalil made two requests of the
king. First, he would only be chief if the king stuck to syari'at
(Islamic law) in his leadership. Second, the king must allow him
to go to Mecca for the haj before he began his duties as district
leader. The king agreed.

While Jalil was in Mecca, a messenger came from the Banten
Kingdom to Gempol. The message brought from Banten was that
Sumedang should switch its loyalty from Mataram to Banten.
Regarding this as an insult, Gempol killed the messenger.

Shortly after Jalil returned home, he became aware of the
murder. He accused the king of breaking his pledge to stick to
Islamic teachings. He refused to join the kingdom and traveled to
a distant place for meditation.

During his meditation, Jalil asked God to tell him a good
place to lead a divine life. It was said that a bright light
shone from a certain spot, for which Jalil headed. In this place,
Jalil led his spiritual life and led a community, which survives
until today. A system of values, traditions, taboos and
obligations adhered to by the Dukuh people are derived from his
teachings.

The Dukuh village is situated on a 300-hectare plateau, 10
kilometers from Pameungpeuk. There is no road access. To reach
the village, one must travel along a steeply ascending and stony
track cutting through a teak jungle. You can ride a motorbike.
But be prepared, because it is a bumpy ride that only a skilled
rider can attempt.

Even being so remote, the Dukuh people cannot fully escape the
changing times. They send their children to state schools. Every
day, starting very early in the morning, the children have to
walk some six kilometers to get to school and then the same
distance home again after school.

Several Dukuh offspring have even graduated from universities.
One is a doctor. But since he still lives within the community,
he stays in a bamboo house and leads a simple life. He restrains
from showing off the fruits of his work like his urban fellows
proudly do.