No secret to Kafe Victoria's successful recipe

It was a world away from our original culinary destination, a popular eatery dishing up heaping platefuls of Padang curries and stews in spartan but passable surroundings.

But that, sadly, was closed, and we found ourselves scanning the business directory board in the chic jungle of Plaza Senayan at 9 p.m., confronted by a dwindling gaggle of the city's affluent as they put their gold cards to bed for the night and trundled home laden down with new treasures.

Tired, hungry and more than a tad disappointed, our dining trio was unfortunately far from spoiled for choice. With just an hour to burn before the plaza closed for the night, the available pickings were decidedly slim and shrinking fast.

A taste for ribs? Been there, done that, one of Epicurus' companion replied, pointing out that our last experience at a meat joint had been woefully uninspiring. Fast food offerings in the food court? A resounding no -- we were not thrilled at the thought of going to sleep with a heavy mound of greasola stuck in the pit of our stomachs.

Then it dawned on us that the place to be was Kafe Victoria, the stomping ground of those very same beautiful people now speeding home to luxury heaven, their coveted sanctuary where they unwind and rest up before the next purchasing extravaganza.

I relished the prospect after long assuming that Kafe Victoria, glimpsed briefly on flying visits to Plaza Senayan, was merely one more monstrosity on Jakarta's often hideous cafe circuit. Just another place to pout, preen and puff away while toying with a stale danish.

Initial suspicions were confirmed. Only a few tables in the open floor plan restaurant were occupied, but sinetron devotees would have been in their element. Through the haze of the de rigueur cafe accouterment of swirling cigarette smoke, we spotted some familiar faces. "Isn't that Vina, Mina, or is it Rina...," one of us pondered aloud as a willowy young woman darted between tables to hastily air kiss assorted friends. Yes, we knew the faces but the problem was we couldn't put any names to them.

A desire to wag a finger and mutter "tony, tony, tony" (as in dripping sophistication, not Braxton) was stifled as the waiter handed us our menus. It was an eclectic fare, ranging from Western to Japanese, with cakes, pastries and savories also available.

My assumptions started to break down with the waiter. He was all business, spoke articulately and dazzled us with his knowledge of all the dishes. We peppered him with questions, but he was unfazed. He did not resort to haughty disclosures or that irritating blend of Indo-English which ends up meaning nothing at all.

For an appetizer, we opted to share a Kroket Salad, which consisted of two chicken croquettes on a bed of lettuce and tomato, doused with Thousand Island dressing. The croquettes were disconcertingly cold for this diner, although the others retorted that this was only to be expected of a salad.

Things could only get better, and they did. Entrees were a Mixed Grill (white fish, chicken, steak, shrimp served with peas and carrot); Gindara Fish with Lemon Butter; and Spaghetti Krakatau. The grill selection was very good and the portion was ample for one person. A tangy sauce, in which we detected distinct curry seasoning, complimented it well.

The Gindara was a succulent slab of boneless grilled white fish accompanied by boiled potatoes and mixed vegetables. Judged delicious by the two fish eaters in our party, it was just the right size portion.

The spaghetti, with a hearty dose of chili powder to give credence to its explosive name, was edible enough but it didn't have Epicurus devouring it with gusto. The mushroom-tomato-chili combination somehow missed the culinary mark.

Desserts were Cheesecake, American Chocolate Cake and Brownie and Ice Cream. The cheesecake, resembling more of a lemon chiffon sponge, was paradoxically judged either too sweet or tart by our party. The chocolate cake was no frills but appetizing, and the warmed brownie was scrumptious with two scoops of ice cream.

Before we knew it, the clamor of keys turning in locks and shop fronts being shut for the night told us it was time to go. It was then we realized the full appeal of Kafe Victoria. We had passed a pleasant hour in its environs, unhindered by overbearing waiters or the antics of our fellow diners, and partaken of pleasant if not glorious food. All of this came at the wholly reasonable price of Rp 106,000 (US$43.23) for three people, and did not include the added attraction of being able to while away the time with some celebrity spotting.

-- Epicurus