New paradise found in Kemang 'barn'

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

I suppose it wouldn't be going too far to say that the essential ingredients that make up any fine restaurant can basically be boiled down to four elements: taste, style, atmosphere and service.

Most mundane rather than urbane eateries will usually be blessed with a combination of two or three of these elements. But it's a rare establishment indeed that can boast all four.

One such remarkable eatery, as I found out over Sunday lunch recently, is the aptly named The Golden Memories on Jl. Ampera Raya in South Jakarta.

Aptly named because, if I'm not very much mistaken, this must be one of the most extensive repositories of East Indies memorabilia that you're likely to find anywhere outside of Amsterdam or The Hague.

With a real old world atmosphere (to partake of a cliche), and walls choc-a-bloc with everything pertaining to the days, more like a millennium than half a century ago, when the blue was still attached to the red and white, and orange was as ubiquitous as rice in a warung, it's not surprising that The Golden Memories has become a magnet for Dutch and other European expatriates, young Indonesians eager to taste a piece of the country's oft ignored heritage, and, of course, more senior Indonesians, misty- eyed in remembrance of their long-departed youth.

Although the building that now houses The Golden Memories was not purpose built (it previously played host to Hora Hora Cafe), it nevertheless is quite appropriate resembling as it does a Dutch barn, a somewhat incongruous sight alongside a South Jakarta road!

But the true wonder of The Golden Memories only becomes apparent after you enter through the double doors and pass through the vestibule (where they've all sorts of tasty treats from the Netherlands on display), for the classic ensemble that greets you could very well have been transported miraculously from any of the great cities in Europe and set down by some trick of fate here in the tropics.

And there's not a hint of vulgarity or charlatanism to be found. The whole place looks, feels and, for most intents and purposes, is about as close to the real thing as you're likely to find anywhere, without actually forking out on a round trip to Europe.

With the senses soothed by the old, dark stained timbers, solid furniture, and wood and stained glass partitions dividing up the dining area into a treasure trove of nooks and crannies, all bestowed with individual names taken from around Indonesia, this is the sort of place where you won't want to leave, and lunch dates tend to become exceedingly long and languorous.

With names such as the Soerabaya Room, Garoet Room and the Bandoeng Room (each filled to the gunwhales with evocative colonial paraphernalia, postcards and advertisements), as well as the subdued lighting provided by antique lamps, these individual little dining compartments provide comfort and privacy without totally cocooning and shutting off the diner from the outside world. For those who desire absolute privacy, however, there's a beautifully appointed private room available, decorated with a great collection of prints by well-known Dutch colonial artists, including Hans Snel, Hofker and Anton Pieck, to name but a few.

And to add further to the nostalgia, they've even got live music, with plenty of old 1930s and 1940s Dutch hits, from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. from Tuesday to Friday, and on Sundays for lunch and dinner (midday to 3 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.)

But, for me, the icing on the entire, irresistible cake was the absolutely wonderful bar upstairs, replete with snugs (tiny individual compartments), and a balcony from where you can survey the world of lesser mortals far down below in the dining room.

But all of this style and nostalgia on its own, of course, does not a great restaurant make. What, then, about the food?

With a menu seemingly culled from the classic cookbooks of Holland, plus some Indonesian and international favorites thrown in for good measure, this is a traditionalist's paradise, with good, wholesome food being served in style, and portions large enough to satisfy your average normal, healthy adult -- no nouvelle cuisine here!

The main reason for our visit was actually to try out the Nieuwe Haring, or new herrings, which are caught each year by the Dutch fleet after the herring fishing season opens in early May. Imported especially by The Golden Memories and served with bread and a side salad, these smoked delicacies from the deep are the perfect starter. And it comes as no surprise at all to learn that the arrival of the nieuwe haring is awaited with as much anticipation in the Netherlands as the Beaujolais Nouveau is among wine lovers.

After savoring the herrings, I decided to try out the set menu at Rp 79,500, while my partner opted to go a la carte.

As a starter, I selected the Bruine Bonensoep (brown bean soup served with sliced, smoked Dutch sausage). With no shortage of delicious sausage, this is a warming, sturdy broth that is definitely designed to keep the wolf from the door (thank heavens for air-conditioning!).

Meanwhile, for her starter my partner had plumped for the Fleeskroketje met mosterd, brood en salade met frambozensaus at Rp 38,000. This turned out to be a Dutch meat croquette with mustard, bread and salad served with a raspberry dressing. Once again, there were no complaints, apart perhaps from the onset of premature fullness.

For my entree, I elected for the Blande Vinken (stuffed paupiettes of veal served with fresh creamed spinach and new potatoes). Ah, yes, this is what it's all about! With five chunky slices of veal paupiette, a major serving of delectably creamy spinach, and dainty little new potatoes providing the finishing touch, I was as near as you're likely to get to cloud nine in a public place.

For her entree, my partner had selected the In boter gebakken Hollandse biefstuk (Rp 107,000), a beef tenderloin steak prepared in the Dutch manner and served with sweet apple sauce, peas and sauteed potatoes. Once again, an absolute treat for all lovers of North European cuisine, and even my partner, who normally prefers Indonesian or Asian food to the delights of the old continent, pronounced the dish superb.

And neither was dessert in any way a let-down, with delicious fresh-cream filled pastries, apple pancakes with syrup and Dutch strawberry tartlets all vying to steal the show. What a fabulous way to end a, dare I say it, perfect meal!

So, if you happen to be a traditionalist, nostalgia buff or simply a lover of good food and the finer things in life, take some time out to visit The Golden Memories. I think I can safely say you won't be disappointed.

The Golden Memories, Jl. Ampera Raya 11A, South Jakarta. You can call them on (021) 7829555/6. All prices quoted above exclude tax and service.