New eatery offers fast food, Indian style

Sherry Samtani, Contributor/Jakarta

You know fast food has truly become a culture when even exotic Indian cuisine is served a la McDonald's.

However, there is a twist: Komala's, the relatively new, uber- trendy, fast food joint right next door to the Golden Arches on Jl. Thamrin in Central Jakarta, is strictly vegetarian and specializes in South Indian food.

That means no curry.

To those shell-shocked by the idea of Indian food without the aforementioned, the masterminds behind this restaurant are no fools but a business phenomenon.

The Komala's group sprung up over 50 years ago in Singapore as restaurants offering inexpensive South Indian food. Gaining legions of fans over the years, the owner's offspring decided to give the firm a face-lift to take it one step further.

They began Komala's, a franchise of typical Southern Indian food in a Western layout.

Komala's was a stellar hit, accepted by old supporters and new customers alike, raking in millions of dollars every year. It spread fast in Singapore and across borders to Thailand, Malaysia and India, and arrived in Jakarta in May 2004.

The Jakarta outlet is substantially different from others. In terms of cuisine, Indonesian items such as nasi uduk (rice cooked in coconut milk with side dishes), nasi goreng (fried rice) and mie goreng (fried noodles) are also available on the menu.

Recently, an array of Chinese dishes was unveiled, that is, Chinese food with an Indian touch.

Think Indian and one thinks hot and spicy, but South Indian food is not so as the average vindaloo and is actually known for its nutritional benefits. It is very different from the mostly northern Indian cuisine -- curries with rich, creamy sauces -- found in Jakarta's long-established Indian eateries.

Situated in the Sarinah building at the heart of Thamrin, the restaurant is a mere 80 square feet but can seat up to 60 people. Cramped? No doubt, but the minimalist decor and bright lighting help play down any fears of claustrophobia. It's a two-story restaurant, with the counter below and a majority of the seating up a narrow staircase on the second story.

Being Indonesia, even a fast food joint serves you at your table, but Komala's is one notch above by using PDA's (Personal Digital Assistants) and bluetooth technology to ensure the kitchen processes your order on time.

The staff is friendly and willing to please, and the food is delivered in from seven to 10 minutes, not exactly "fast" food but faster than most Indian restaurants.

Beginning the feast with a beverage, try the refreshing rose milk (Rp 8,500) or almond milk (Rp 10,500), the usual accompaniments to a vegetarian meal. Coffee lovers should try the aromatic Indian coffee (Rp 8,000), which has a lingering taste of Indian masala (spice).

All-time favorite vegetable samosas (Rp 8,000 for two) are perfect appetizers: crunchy, triangular rolls stuffed with an assortment of vegetables that are mild enough for most tongues and a must-have for any Indian meal.

For those with spice phobias, the idly plate (Rp 15,000) would be an excellent substitute, consisting of soft Indian cakes made from a tangy rice dough. Accompanying the idly plates are chutneys or sauces and sambar, a sour gravy.

The major contender for the main course should be the Mysore Masala Dosai (Rp 22,000). Dosais are light, crispy and huge Indian pancakes made from rice and lentils, and this variation is coated with a layer of chutney on the inside and stuffed with spicy potatoes and other vegetables.

I was recommended to try the Black Pepper Paneer as well, which is tofu sauteed in black pepper and other spices to give an authentic Chinese Indian taste. Vegetable burgers (Rp 14,000) are also available for those who crave a quick bite.

Komala's also boasts homemade ice creams with exotic flavors, like pistachio and mango. My personal favorite is the kulfi (Rp 13,000), a sweet, dairy based, frozen dessert.

Children can opt for the special kid's meals priced at Rp 20,000 and below. Value meals also exist for adults at Rp 35,000 and below, drinks included.

A three course meal would probably set you back Rp 35,000, a low price to pay for a different and gratifying meal. A few dishes are greasy like many Indian dishes, but they go surprisingly easy on the tastebuds.

Komala's has achieved a standardized menu for all visitors despite the unique qualities of its cuisine. A fast food, vegetarian Indian restaurant that does not burn your tongue or pocketbook definitely calls for a visit.

For those who fancy a meal at home, Komala's delivers via pesan delivery (021-72787070) with a minimum order of Rp 15,000. The menu is supposed to be posted on the website www.pesandelivery.com but as of last week, I still could not find the posting.

------------------------------- Komala's Sarinah Building. Jl. M. H. Thamrin No. 11 Central Jakarta Tel: (021) 3903533 -----------------------------