Nepal: Glimpses of the capital
KATHMANDU, Nepal (JP): Gathering around for a morning cup of tea, enjoying dusk along a bench at the old palace square or heaving hay two meters high -- these are a few of the sights which visitors come across in the valley.
Buddhism and Hinduism mix, rendering a combination of symbols as displayed on temples, adorned entrances to homes and shops, and vehicles from trucks to rickshaws.
Tourists walk in awe through the gates of the various parts of the former ancient kingdoms of this city's virtual living museum -- full of temples, squares and communal water compounds.
Nightlife is synonymous with the Thamel area, a long and winding stretch of a "tourist" street lined with low-cost hotels, handicraft and souvenir shops selling handmade paper, shawls, statues and jewelry, and others selling carpets from Kashmir and cloth from India. Take care, however, because night is the "legitimate" time for rickshaw "hell drivers"; these are tourists taking the handles with their generous, dexterous drivers somehow helping to avoid disasters.
The Cafe de Pagoda and others around the Patan Durbar (palace) Square offer a pleasant rooftop view of the whole square, where residents meet and converse amid the singing, percussion and bells sounding worship from a nearby temple.
Getting There: Major carriers such as Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and Air India have connecting services to Kathmandu from Jakarta. With Thai Airways, expect to spend one night in Bangkok (ask for a hotel near the airport with pick-up service). Prices vary according to season, but range from about US$650 to $800. Indonesian nationals are among those who can make use of the 30- day visa-on-arrival facility.
Eats: Indian fare abounds apart from European dishes on the international menu; Nepali fare is most often the basic dal bhat dish of soup with lentils and curried vegetables. Tibetan influences are also found, such as in momo -- steamed or fried meat or vegetables in dough. Keep to the golden rule of travel in any developing country and drink only bottled or boiled water. Otherwise, you may pay the price by spending your vacation stuck in a hotel bed.
Language: Nepali is spoken in the city, apart from local dialects. Try communicating and you may find someone speaking English (including street children). Indians have the advantage of being able to communicate in Hindi.
Things to Do: Nepal is a major trekking and hiking destination, inevitably bringing with it the tourism dilemma of its impact on the community. Look into joining up with other trekkers, or try out locally arranged tours and ask for tips on minimizing damage.
For the unintiated, there are "beginners' treks", like one-day treks near Kathmandu. Rafting and kayaking operators also offer "beginners' rivers" up to those with more, increasingly difficult rapids. As always, be sure to check out if the operators know their stuff. Upcoming from Dec. 1 to Dec. 4 is the Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival. (anr)