Nelwan makes fashion statement through indigenous fiber

Rita A. Widiadana, The Jakarta Post/Kuta,Bali

It was a memorable experience for Nelwan Anwar to dress President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, his wife and several Cabinet members in white shirts and kebaya (traditional blouses) made from haramay fiber, locally known as ramie Garut.

Haramay fiber (Boehmeria Nivea), more commonly known as Chinese grass, has been generally neglected and overlooked as a material for clothes, but in the hands of Nelwan it is lavish and stylish.

"Clothes made of haramay fiber are suitable for a tropical country like Indonesia. The material is light and comfortable," Nelwan said.

And with the country suffering from an energy crisis and the use of air conditioners being frowned upon, now is a good time to start wearing clothes that are thin and cool.

"It is, however, very difficult for me to convince Western- oriented Indonesian people to try to wear local products, which they consider cheap and unfashionable," Nelwan told The Jakarta Post in Kuta recently.

He said he was pleased the President had worn ramie shirts on a number of state occasions. "A leader should set a good example."

The "We love Indonesian products" campaign, launched decades ago during the New Order regime, has never been more than an empty slogan, with most people still favoring foreign designers and foreign-branded clothes, bags, shoes and accessories.

To promote local products, since 1995 Nelwan has been active in researching and processing natural fibers for his creations, including pineapple fibers, banana fibers and haramay.

"Indonesia has multiple sources of natural fibers but we have not yet developed or processed them properly to add more value to our commodities," Nelwan said.

The Philippines has successfully created national clothes using pineapple fibers. "They (the Philippine people, including the president and high-ranking government officials) are proud to wear these clothes at various international events," Nelwan said.

Indonesia has numerous batik patterns, woven warp ikat textiles and silk products that look as beautiful as textiles made by overseas producers. "Indonesian batik is now facing a threat from Malaysian producers who extensively promote our products as their own. Singapore did a similar with its batik patterns," Nelwan said.

Batik is used as formal attire here thanks to prominent designers like Iwan Tirta who tirelessly develop and document the textiles. Woven cloth endek from Bali and West Nusa Tenggara are now tailored as uniforms by local officials.

"By using local materials, we not only promote our products but also improve the welfare of poor farmers, traditional weavers and many more people involved in the production," he said.

In designing and producing his clothes, Nelwan has collaborated with hundreds of small-scale silk producers, farmers and small-scale weavers in West and Central Java, Bali, West and East Nusa Tenggara, Sumatra and Sulawesi.

Processing raw materials into finished products requires meticulous and tireless efforts. It has always been a matter of trial and error, said Nelwan, who will be honored with the ASEAN Development Citra Award on Aug. 30 for his promotion of local products.

In the case of haramay fiber, Nelwan is working with farmers and traditional weavers from Wanaraja, 12 kilometers from Garut, or about 90 kilometers north of the West Java provincial capital of Bandung.

The farmers grow haramay plants on their land, while the weavers process the grass into threads. It is a community-based business that has transformed the previously economically depressed area.

"We are still experimenting with various textile processing techniques by using hand weaving or by using machinery in some textile factories. The quality is, of course, different," he said.

Nelwan and local weavers led by Hajjah Aminah Mussadad are now trying to mix haramay fiber with genuine and artificial silk, cotton, rayon and other materials.

Machine-made haramay textiles have a rougher texture and are sold at local textile markets for between Rp 15,000 and Rp 80,000 per meter. The textiles can be used to upholster furniture, or for curtains, bags, shoes, handicrafts or clothes.

The hand-woven haramay textile is much more luxurious and expensive.

"In my last fashion show in Rome, Italy, and some other European countries, I presented lines of collections made of haramay," Nelwan said.

To create his glamorous clothes, Nelwan uses silver and golden beads and elaborate embroidery. "Nobody recognized that such fabulous gowns were made of haramay. I was very proud to tell my European clientele and they really appreciated my creations," said Nelwan, who has received large orders from a number of European countries and Mexico as well.

He realizes it will take a very long time before his creations from haramay fiber are fully accepted by Indonesians.

It is hard to shift the negative perception of "Made-in- Indonesia" products. It will require cooperation between textile producers, designers, the media and fashion magazines.

One of his major objectives is to write a comprehensive book on Indonesian textiles, natural fibers and textile-processing techniques.

"I expect the coming book will provide a look at the richness of Indonesian textiles and its natural textile materials," said Nelwan.