Mykonos Taverna -- attractively simple, yet great food

Mykonos Taverna -- attractively simple, yet great food

KUTA, Bali (JP): On a recent trip to Bali, I was very much
aware of how quickly things change there in the food and beverage
industry.

The Jakarta and Bali markets are completely different, as Bali
is much more affected by tourism's seasonal variations. So new
outlets appear and familiar ones disappear with alarming
rapidity, and the customers, a high proportion of them tourists,
are increasingly drawn from every corner of the globe.

This means that competition is extremely fierce and works very
much to the customers' advantage: the quality of both product and
service must be very high, and the ingenuity of those in the
restaurant trade is increasingly being challenged in the search
for a new niche in the market.

These thoughts were running through my mind when I asked some
Bali-based friends for a recommendation for somewhere to eat that
was new, had good food, and was not unduly expensive. Without
hesitation they mentioned Mykonos Taverna, a small Greek
restaurant run by a Greek, Marinos Kokotovis, that has become
very popular within the relatively short time that it has been
open to the public.

Marinos is a very friendly and genial character, who,
conscious that diners may not be familiar with Greek cuisine, is
more than happy to sit at your table for a while and chat, as
well as keep an eye on the kitchen that is in full view at the
back. He will make a few selections from the tempting menu to
produce a balanced and memorable meal.

Herein lies the secret of his rapid success: with one
exception, there are no other places in this entire area offering
Greek food, and none at all have captured the simple, yet
attractive roadside taverna atmosphere that characterizes similar
places in his homeland.

The restaurant is simply furnished with wooden tables and
chairs, with seating for about 30 people. There is an uncovered
stone floor and domestic ornaments are dotted here and there.

Greek bouzouki music can be heard in the background, some of
the kind that gets faster and faster toward the end. An open
sitting area immediately next door was almost ready for use,
thereby almost doubling the seating capacity.

Mykonos is located on the border between Seminyak and
Kerobokan on Jl. Laksmana, currently somewhat of a backwater road
that runs from Jl. Raya Seminyak toward Oberoi Hotel. At present,
the main focus of attention for diners and drinkers in this part
of town is the central part of Seminyak, about two kilometers
away, dominated by Ryoshi Japanese, Kura-Kura grill, Goa 2001 (a
pub and long-standing Seminyak institution) and Cafi Luna
pub-cum-restaurant (which Marinos used to manage).

The area along Jl. Laksmana, as far as the beach is showing,
has every sign of becoming a new attraction. Apart from Mykonos,
one can find here the restaurants at the Oberoi and The Legian
Hotels (both good, but expensive), and two popular beachside
restaurants, La Lucciola, a well-established "must-visit"
Italian, and Ku De Ta, the stylish, presciently named,
new-kid-on-the-block offering modern Australian cooking. Goa 2001
is also due to relocate from its current premises to one almost
opposite where Mykonos now stands.

The menu at Mykonos is dominated by Mediterranean vegetables
(olives, green and red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers and
pulses) lemon, feta cheese, meatballs and lamb. I was dining with
a friend and we started with pikilia, a kind of vegetarian Greek
antipasto consisting of beans, beetroot, tzatziki (yogurt,
cucumber, dill and olive oil), dolmades (rice with lemon and
olive oil wrapped in vine leaves) and eggplant dip. This tasted
both fresh and piquant and whetted the appetite for what was to
follow.

The main courses were suzoukakia cevapcici (minced lamb and
beef patties on pita bread with lemon, oregano and tzatziki), and
keftes skara (grilled beef and lamb meat balls) with vegetables
and grilled potatoes. The meat part of the dishes had a terrific
savory taste (the secret being the herbs used, I'm sure) and both
portions were very generous.

Most diners are probably unable to accommodate a dessert as
well, but fresh fruits, or yogurt with honey or ice cream can be
ordered. A daily special is also available. Greek coffee, full-
bodied and aromatic, is the highlight item of the hot beverages.

The price of the meal above, including a small bottle of
Bintang beer, a glass of avocado juice and a bottle of mineral
water, was just under Rp 100,000, including tax at 10 percent.
This represented very good value for money indeed by Bali
standards.

Marinos uses imported lamb and beef, and is hoping to reach an
agreement with a dealer in Australia so that he can serve retsina
and ouzo (wine). However, he was somewhat ambivalent about this.

"Once that happens, my running costs will inevitably rise for
customers will start dancing on the tables and smashing the
crockery, in true Greek fashion!" he said.

Mykonos Taverna, Jl. Laksmana No.52, Oberoi, Kerobokan, Kuta
Bali. The phone number is (0361) 733253, e-mail:
mykonosbali@yahoo.com. (Les Coffier)