Mykonos Taverna -- attractively simple, yet great food

KUTA, Bali (JP): On a recent trip to Bali, I was very much aware of how quickly things change there in the food and beverage industry.

The Jakarta and Bali markets are completely different, as Bali is much more affected by tourism's seasonal variations. So new outlets appear and familiar ones disappear with alarming rapidity, and the customers, a high proportion of them tourists, are increasingly drawn from every corner of the globe.

This means that competition is extremely fierce and works very much to the customers' advantage: the quality of both product and service must be very high, and the ingenuity of those in the restaurant trade is increasingly being challenged in the search for a new niche in the market.

These thoughts were running through my mind when I asked some Bali-based friends for a recommendation for somewhere to eat that was new, had good food, and was not unduly expensive. Without hesitation they mentioned Mykonos Taverna, a small Greek restaurant run by a Greek, Marinos Kokotovis, that has become very popular within the relatively short time that it has been open to the public.

Marinos is a very friendly and genial character, who, conscious that diners may not be familiar with Greek cuisine, is more than happy to sit at your table for a while and chat, as well as keep an eye on the kitchen that is in full view at the back. He will make a few selections from the tempting menu to produce a balanced and memorable meal.

Herein lies the secret of his rapid success: with one exception, there are no other places in this entire area offering Greek food, and none at all have captured the simple, yet attractive roadside taverna atmosphere that characterizes similar places in his homeland.

The restaurant is simply furnished with wooden tables and chairs, with seating for about 30 people. There is an uncovered stone floor and domestic ornaments are dotted here and there.

Greek bouzouki music can be heard in the background, some of the kind that gets faster and faster toward the end. An open sitting area immediately next door was almost ready for use, thereby almost doubling the seating capacity.

Mykonos is located on the border between Seminyak and Kerobokan on Jl. Laksmana, currently somewhat of a backwater road that runs from Jl. Raya Seminyak toward Oberoi Hotel. At present, the main focus of attention for diners and drinkers in this part of town is the central part of Seminyak, about two kilometers away, dominated by Ryoshi Japanese, Kura-Kura grill, Goa 2001 (a pub and long-standing Seminyak institution) and Cafi Luna pub-cum-restaurant (which Marinos used to manage).

The area along Jl. Laksmana, as far as the beach is showing, has every sign of becoming a new attraction. Apart from Mykonos, one can find here the restaurants at the Oberoi and The Legian Hotels (both good, but expensive), and two popular beachside restaurants, La Lucciola, a well-established "must-visit" Italian, and Ku De Ta, the stylish, presciently named, new-kid-on-the-block offering modern Australian cooking. Goa 2001 is also due to relocate from its current premises to one almost opposite where Mykonos now stands.

The menu at Mykonos is dominated by Mediterranean vegetables (olives, green and red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers and pulses) lemon, feta cheese, meatballs and lamb. I was dining with a friend and we started with pikilia, a kind of vegetarian Greek antipasto consisting of beans, beetroot, tzatziki (yogurt, cucumber, dill and olive oil), dolmades (rice with lemon and olive oil wrapped in vine leaves) and eggplant dip. This tasted both fresh and piquant and whetted the appetite for what was to follow.

The main courses were suzoukakia cevapcici (minced lamb and beef patties on pita bread with lemon, oregano and tzatziki), and keftes skara (grilled beef and lamb meat balls) with vegetables and grilled potatoes. The meat part of the dishes had a terrific savory taste (the secret being the herbs used, I'm sure) and both portions were very generous.

Most diners are probably unable to accommodate a dessert as well, but fresh fruits, or yogurt with honey or ice cream can be ordered. A daily special is also available. Greek coffee, full- bodied and aromatic, is the highlight item of the hot beverages.

The price of the meal above, including a small bottle of Bintang beer, a glass of avocado juice and a bottle of mineral water, was just under Rp 100,000, including tax at 10 percent. This represented very good value for money indeed by Bali standards.

Marinos uses imported lamb and beef, and is hoping to reach an agreement with a dealer in Australia so that he can serve retsina and ouzo (wine). However, he was somewhat ambivalent about this.

"Once that happens, my running costs will inevitably rise for customers will start dancing on the tables and smashing the crockery, in true Greek fashion!" he said.

Mykonos Taverna, Jl. Laksmana No.52, Oberoi, Kerobokan, Kuta Bali. The phone number is (0361) 733253, e-mail: mykonosbali@yahoo.com. (Les Coffier)