Thu, 24 Nov 2005

Museum Prasasti: Learning history from a headstone

Bambang Nurbianto, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

The past comes to life at Museum Taman Prasasti (Inscription Museum) in Central Jakarta where headstones from the days of Dutch rule are housed.

Many Dutch people visit the museum as much information can be gleaned from the headstones about their ancestors.

"Around 200 Dutch people come to the museum each year. Most of them are tourists, but there are also scholars who carry out research here," museum supervisor Sudihardjo told The Jakarta Post on Wednesday.

The museum was formerly a cemetery known as Kebon Jahe Kober. The cemetery was built by the Dutch colonial government in 1795 as a final resting place for those of Dutch ancestry, particularly those from noble and senior official families.

There are many noted Dutch people buried there including two military men Maj. Gen. A.V. Michiel and Maj. Gen. J.H. R. Kohler, who respectively led wars in Bali and Aceh, as well as the founder of Stovia school of medicine -- now the University of Indonesia -- H. V. Roll.

Other important people buried there are Olivie Mariamne Raffles -- wife of British governor general Thomas Stamford Raffles -- and Indonesian youth activist Soe Hok Gie.

After an independent Indonesia was declared in 1945, prominent Indonesians were also buried in Kebon Jahe Kober, Christians in particular.

The city administration closed the graveyard in 1975 and turned it into museum in 1977.

Bearing a skull and crossbones, one headstone at the museum that draws comment is that of Pieter Erberveld, who died in 1722. Erberveld, who had a wealthy German father and a Burmese mother, was sentenced to death for plotting to murder several Dutchmen.

It is said the sentence was carried out by the tying of a horse to all four of Erberveld's limbs, which, when the animals bolted, tore him apart. This is the reason why the area on Jl. Jayakarta in Central Jakarta is called Kulit Pecah (broken skin).

The graveyard, which is located less than a kilometer from the State Palace, originally occupied some 5.5 hectares of land, but the museum has grounds of just 1.3 hectares. The office of the Central Jakarta administration is among buildings situated on the remainder of the land.

Before the construction of the offices, some of the graves were excavated and arrangements made with relatives for the remains to be sent home. Other bodies were reburied in several cemeteries around the city.

However, the headstones were all left at the site, largely due to their weight, particularly those with statues.

Sudihardjo said the museum had a collection of 1,300 items, mostly headstones. There is also a hearse used during the Dutch era, a bronze bell, and the coffins of founding president and vice president Soekarno and Muhammad Hatta.

Awaluddin, a museum employee, said Jakartans also visited but mostly students.

He said, however, ticket sales alone did not cover the operational costs of the museums.

"Only around 50 visitors come to the museum each month," he said, adding that the majority of funding came from the city budget.

Sudihardjo said many things could be learned from studying the headstones -- not only the fact that many Indonesians suffered under Dutch control, but also the contributions of "good Dutch people" to the nation.

"Visitors to the museum -- both Dutch and Indonesian -- can learn from the headstones that good and bad people can be found side by side, anywhere," he added.