Monumental Greek cuisine to savor at Akropolis

Great Greek treats at Akropolis

JAKARTA (JP): Location is everything for some people in choosing a restaurant. That is to say that they will make a beeline in the other direction if the setting does not have a collection of chandeliers looking like they were pilfered from Versailles, or what resembles giant licorice cough drops standing on their head in the lobby.

For them, of course, the food is secondary to the shenanigans around them, of seeing and being seen, of preening and primping on the grand public stage. Unfortunately, our narcissistic love of self has given rise to the culinary affliction of boutique restaurants, an apt name because most of them could just as well be selling frocks, considering the sorry quality of the fare they serve up.

Which is why these lovers of the limelight would probably never set foot in Akropolis, the outstanding Greek restaurant located in the comparatively down-market Ambassador mall. Connoisseurs who are not picky about location will be treated to great food, some of the most personal and conscientious service in the city and little touches (Greek music, rustic tones for decoration, tables in the round) which create an ambiance of Athens.

After braving the high noon traffic and finally arriving at the mall located on Jl. Casablanca, we made our way up, past the motley rows of shops selling computer software, textiles and krismon cosmetics, to Akropolis' perch on the third floor.

Although small, Akropolis is divided into two sections -- a cafe area (there is an assortment of cakes and desserts), including two tables with scenic views of Central Jakarta, and a dining section tastefully set off to the left of the entrance. This section is adorned with various photographs of Greek relics (no, none of Nana Moskouri) and potted plants; diners soon forget they are in a mall and, thankfully, are not prey to gawking passersby.

The menu, in Greek, English and Indonesian, includes an ample array of appetizers. We opted for a mixed selection (Rp 40,000) which consisted of a plate laden with keftedakia (fried meat balls), dolmadakia (vine leaves), spanakopitakia (spinach pies), deliciously crisp slivers of melitzanese tiganites (fried eggplant), spring rolls, samosa and tiropitakia (cheese pies). It was a tasty and filling introduction to the selection of Greek treats, and a bargain compared to ordering individual items.

Already quite sated by the appetizers plus our indulgence in the warm loaf of bread with olive oil and minced garlic, we bypassed the selection of salads and soups (village salad with feta and oil and lemon dressing, potato soup, etc.) and went straight to the main course. We decided to keep things light and share, although there are choices of chops and steak from the grill.

We selected moussaka, the Middle Eastern dish of layered eggplant and minced meat, topped in this version by a supremely creamy bechamel sauce; souvlakia, grilled meat cubes of lamb and/or beef served in pita bread with yogurt and cucumber sauce and fries; and kleftiko, an assortment of meat and vegetables cooked in the oven.

Lovers of rich food will savor the moussaka, with its heady concoction of meat, spices and the bechamel, while those averse to meat or prefer a lighter meal, can try the vegetarian version, filled with eggplant and tomatoes. The souvlakia, with tender chunks of beef and lamb was also good, although one diner found the latter to be a bit fatty, which is always the problem with lamb, and too spicy for his palate.

Another winner was the kleftiko, although some diners wondered whether the wax paper parcels would have been filo pastry back in the Old World. Other main courses include gyros, soutzoukakia smyrneika, or meatballs cooked smyrna style, chicken livers with lemon sauce and sauteed rice, and the rice casserole, with a choice of chicken or lamb. The latter was tried on another visit to Akropolis, and found to be an exquisite dish of fragrant rice with an ample portion of diced chicken.

Any gripes? None of significance, although one diner, while extolling its virtues, was a bit miffed that humus and the lentil soup were unavailable on his visit.

But the service by the two neat waiters in white shirts and aprons really is something to crow about; these people take an interest, offer suggestions, listen up and are attentive without constantly hovering. It is a shining example many restaurant managers would do well to follow.

Although some of the main courses and the individual appetizers are pricey, our bill came to only Rp 214,000 for three, excellent value considering the amount of food we consumed (the sum includes drinks, among them the caffeine-hit of real Greek coffee).

Akropolis meets the criteria for great Greek food in a pleasant atmosphere and, pertinently, without the snob value.

-- Epicurus