Modernization continues to permeate Dayak lives

Modernization continues to permeate Dayak lives

Is it true that Dayak tribes living deep in the hinterland of
Kalimantan still live primitive lives? Early this month, The
Jakarta Post photographer P.J. Leo visited a number of villages
in Kapuas Hulu, Putussibau district, West Kalimantan, about 700
kilometers from the provincial capital of Pontianak. Here he
observed the daily lives of members of one tribe, Dayak Taman,
who live on both sides of the Kapuas river.

PUTUSSIBAU, West Kalimantan (JP): The mere mention of the word
"Dayak" calls to many people's minds images of tattooed bodies
and violence. Our mental picture of the Dayaks is one of
primitive tribal people never parting with machetes, arrows and
blowpipes, which they use to defend themselves and kill their
enemies. However, do present-day Dayak people fit this
caricature?

Dayak culture seemingly had a low degree of civilization.
Intertribe wars and slavery are said to have been the order of
the day. However, this is all history and myth now.

In the course of time, the Dayaks, although living deep in
forests and far from urban civilization, are now no longer free
from the influence of the modern way of life. However, tradition
is still a big part of their lives.

The Dayaks now can enjoy the modern conveniences made
available by progress in technology, such as electricity, TV,
satellite dishes, boat engines and the like.

"It is actually not easy for Dayaks to accept modern
technology if we are not convinced of its benefit for us," said
John F. Herry Muda, head of the Malap village, when talking about
the technology applied in the era of the ancestors of the Dayaks.

The Dayaks live in a close relationship with nature. They do
not dare cause damage to the land and the forests, because they
know that doing so will mean damaging their own lives.

However, the Dayaks have no other choice but to open up forest
areas for growing rice in order to survive. They will fell trees
and burn a certain area in the forest to plant rice on the thin
layer of usable soil. The topsoil is usually sparse and after
just one harvest is unfertile. So farmers must move to another
forest area and clear the land for the next rice crop.

When choosing a certain forest area to be cleared for farming,
the Dayaks often do not consider the flatness of the land. They
simply clear and burn the trees and start planting rice. Harvests
often fail due to poor irrigation.

Dayak culture is inseparable from their characteristic long
houses, or betang panjang, which often have at least 25 doors.
Here they lead and defend their lives. To Dayaks, these houses
are not only shelters, but also serve as defensive forts during
enemy attacks.

"Don't be surprised to find a betang panjang built five to 12
meters above ground with large tree trunks as stilts. In this way
occupants can keep themselves safe from enemies and also wild
animals," John said.

"In the belief of our ancestors, betang panjang are built
close to a river bank, and must look over the river, because good
fortune is said to be there in the river. This is the traditional
belief of the Dayaks."

Because of possible natural disasters and the efforts of the
government to modernize "backward" villages, some long houses
have been moved from their original positions. Some have been
moved further from river banks because of threats of landslides.
As roads are built for overland transportation, betang panjang
are rotated 180 degrees, so they now face the road rather than
the river.

"There is a taboo, known as buling in the Dayak language, in
the event of a betang panjang having its back on the river.
However, members of the Dayak community today heed the
government's advice that the back of their houses should not look
on the road," John said.

Local and foreign tourists and researchers visiting the
hinterland of Kalimantan express the hope that old long houses,
many built scores of years ago, be well looked after. As now it
is difficult to find traditional Dayak houses as good as those
built in the past.

The majority of betang panjang existing now are built only
about 2.5 meters above the ground, while the tree trunks used as
stilts are not as big as those used for houses of the past.

District administrations in West Kalimantan have extended,
sometimes reluctantly, financial assistance for the repair of
these traditional houses unique to West Kalimantan. In the
villages of Sukamaju and Malapi I, you can still find magnificent
and well maintained betang panjang standing high above the
ground.

"All these traditional houses may be sold as tourist objects.
Besides the traditional houses, community members can intensify
their handicraft production. Those living in betang panjang are
usually related," John said.

To travel from one village to another, which is often quite a
long distance, the Dayaks rely on boats. They also travel by boat
to forest areas to clear the land for farming.

The Dayaks living in Malapi village, where scores of people
live in the same long house, hope that PLN will supply
electricity to the house so nights will no longer be dark.

At sunrise, the Dayaks begin their daily activities. Men sail
their boats along the Kapuas River to their farms. Others take
their cattle to graze. The women, meanwhile, busy themselves
making taingin (rice baskets) and other handicrafts.

As time goes slowly by, modernization continues to permeate
into all aspects of Dayak lives. However, present-day Dayaks no
longer run into the deep forest when surprised by outsiders, but
are meeting the outside world head-on.