Milk fish, a traditional dish for `Imlek' in Jakarta

Milk fish, a traditional dish for `Imlek' in Jakarta

Maria Endah Hulupi, I Wayan Juniartha, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Traditional vendors usually display beautiful cut flowers along a
small street in Rawa Belong, West Jakarta.

Several days before the Chinese Lunar New Year celebration, or
Imlek, however, you will also see about two dozen residents of
Jakarta's indigenous Betawi ethic group turn into vendors,
selling ikan bandeng (milk fish) to people of Chinese descent in
the neighborhood.

"Each Chinese family usually buys around two fish for their
ritual prayers. They usually choose the biggest ones, weighing
one-and-a-half to two kilograms, with the best features. Bigger
fish for bigger luck, I guess," said vendor Mansur, while
sprinkling his merchandise with water from a plastic bucket.

The father of 14 started his five-day business on Jan. 27 and
together with his brother Sanan, he runs his fish kiosk from 6
a.m. to 6 p.m.

On the first day, both men went to the Muara Angke Fish Market
in North Jakarta and bought 200 kilograms of milk fish, or around
130 fish, to be sold at their kiosk in Rawa Belong. Prices range
between Rp 10,000 (90 U.S. cents) and Rp 50,000 per fish,
depending on its size, with an average profit of Rp 1,500 to Rp
2,000 from each fish sold.

But the vendors' target market is not only Indonesians of
Chinese descent, but also local Betawi residents, who, inspired
by the Chinese tradition, have developed their own annual
tradition of eating milk fish before Imlek.

"They believe that milk fish sold before Imlek taste better
than those sold at other times of the year. And it may spark a
family spat if a husband does not return home with a fish for
dinner," said Sanan, adding that the fish were usually prepared
into a variety of traditional dishes and served for dinner.

The Chinese, he added, usually did their shopping in the
morning or at dawn, while most Betawi residents bought their fish
in the afternoon.

"They (Betawi people) are also important customers and they
are the reason I'm willing to stay here, sweating in the heat,"
Sanan smiled, wiping the sweat on his brow and using his straw
hat as a fan.

Mansur has been selling milk fish at this particular spot for
57 years.

"Back (when I started), the area was a small and dark alley
and we came with a lantern. Now, it has become a sort of
tradition for me and other vendors, and I keep it going even
though I know I can only make a small profit," Mansur added.

Seasonal milk fish vendors like Mansur and Sanan have been
hard-hit by the prolonged economic crisis. Before the crisis,
each vendor could sell at least 80 fish in a day, while after the
crisis, they could only sell 60 fish at the most.

"Now, business is slow. I guess it's because of the (recent)
price hike. Yesterday I sold only 40 fish and we still have
around 80 fish to sell," said Mansur.

As with other vendors, Mansur freezes the unsold fish and
resells the remainder on the next day. They only buy new, fresh
fish to sell after they have sold all of the first batch.

"If we don't manage to sell all of them, we give a huge
discount of up to 50 percent on the fourth or fifth day," said
Sanan, who also sells jentik, or mosquito larva, as fish food to
several fish stores in the area.

But the heat and meager profit do not dampen their spirits in
continuing this tradition. During the slow hours, they play cards
or joke around with other vendors, to kill the time and to keep
their spirits up.

Mansur and Sanan try to attract more customers by giving some
practical tips on how to differentiate fresh, good milk fish from
the bad ones. Shiny scales, clear eyes, firm flesh and a nice
fresh-fish smell are the most telling indicators.

Apart from their educational tips, Mansur and Sanan also
provide another service for their buyers: cleaning and gutting
the fish.

"We provide this service just like in supermarkets," said
Mansur proudly.