'Mendoan', Purwokerto's trademark fare

Agus Maryono, The Jakarta Post, Purwokerto

Purwokerto, the capital of Banyumas regency in Central Java, is known as the kripik town thanks to the popularity of local delicacies, tempe kripik and mendoan.

Both are made of tempeh (fermented soybeans) but are fried in different ways.

Kripik is thinly sliced tempeh that is fried until crisp, and can remain edible for over a month, whereas in the case of mendoan, the slices are dipped into rice flour dough mixed with spices before frying, making them soft and edible for a maximum of 24 hours.

Mendoan is better known and preferred because it is a typical specialty of Purwokerto or Banyumas and is rarely found in other regions. It is unlike kripik, which is now produced and sold everywhere.

Food stalls and restaurants serving mendoan are predominantly found in Banyumas and three neighboring regencies, Cilacap, Purbalingga and Banjarnegara.

Both regional classics have become a favorite among not only local communities but also those from other provinces.

According to one local official, every Indonesian president par B.J. Habibie have savored mendoan on their tours of Purwokerto.

When holidays near, selling kripik becomes a profitable enterprise in Purwokerto.

Known as a center for these tempeh specialities, the kiosks along Jl. Sawangan are packed during school holidays.

The daily turnover of these kiosks triples during the holidays, when many visitors go to Baturaden, a tourist destination on the outskirts of Purwokerto, and buy supplies of mendoan or kripik before returning home.

"Local people working in Jakarta also buy large amounts of mendoan when they return to their hometown," said Uswanda, 50, a seller at the Sawangan food center.

He said during weekdays his daily turnover can reach Rp 3 million by using a quintal of soybeans to produce 2,000 pieces of mendoan (each comprising two slices). During school vacations or on national holidays, the turnover rises fivefold and sometimes even more.

"During Idul Fitri, we had a total turnover of about Rp 150 million in 20 days," Uswanda said, adding that he could reap a net profit of 30 percent.

Uswanda, who employs 20 workers, said that he could make Rp 700,000 net profit from selling mendoan made of a quintal of soybeans.

Besides fried mendoan, the kiosks also sell raw mendoan, still wrapped in banana leaves and ready to be fried, sold along with rice flour. One package containing two slices of mendoan measuring about seven centimeters by 12 centimeters costs Rp 800. A slice of fried mendoan is usually priced at Rp 700 and is usually savored along with pungent chilies.

Uswanda said that he uses six kilograms of chilies every day and between 20 kg and 30 kg during holidays.

Making mendoan

Mendoan is easy to make. First, the soybeans are washed clean and boiled for between three and four hours. Then they are drained and mixed with yeast. Afterward, the soybeans are wrapped in banana leaves.

The packets are then left to cool for about 12 hours. After 12 hours, fungus will begin to emerge from the soybeans. This means it has turned into tempeh, and is ready to be fried.

Mendoan is fried after being dipped in dough made from rice flour or regular flour. Add salt and nutmeg as needed. While kripik is tastier if served cool, mendoan is more appetizing if consumed hot.