Meat of the matter off grill at Pondok Kemang Steak
Meat of the matter off grill at Pondok Kemang Steak
JAKARTA (JP): It's enough to turn the most devoted meat eater
into a cud-chewing herbivore. There is mad cow disease running
wild in Europe, foot-and-mouth disease spreading throughout
England and a serious outbreak of anthrax in Bogor, only an
hour's drive from Jakarta.
It's not surprising that with all these diseases hitting the
bovine community, steak may be getting the cold shoulder from
many concerned diners.
But not every one is about to forego the occasional piece of
hearty, juicy steak. So, where's the beef? We checked out one of
the steak eateries on Jl. Haji Nawi Raya, renowned for dishing up
big portions at relatively small prices.
Pondok Kemang Steak, Jl. Haji Nawi Raya No. 46, Cipete, South
Jakarta; (Phone 7650444).
Open: 11 a.m. to midnight. Its busy hours are usually 9 p.m.
to 10 p.m. from Monday to Friday and all through the night on
weekends or holidays.
What's It Got: The one-page menu lists imported Australian
steaks, in different cuts of sirloin, rib eye, tenderloin, and T-
bone. Steaks of local beef and chicken steak are also available.
Also lamp chops, also coming from the land Down Under. The meats
are grilled out in the front of the restaurant.
All steaks are served with local vegetables -- carrots,
string beans, corn, french fries and, of course, a portion of
rice.
The usual soft drinks and beverages (tea, coffee, chocolate
milk) are available.
Price Points: Haji Nawi is famous for giving everyone the
chance to have an "affordable" steak. And it's true that the
steak here is less expensive than hotel and upmarket steak
houses, which can be priced at more than Rp 100,000 a cut.
Yet, with the other things considered (a distinctly impersonal
service, a lack of amenities in the restaurant), some diners may
think it's not such a bargain.
Local tenderloin steak is Rp 29,000 per serving; sirloin is Rp
28,000; imported tenderloin is Rp 37,000 and T-bone and rib eye
cost Rp 35,000. The lamb chops are Rp 25,000, chicken steak Rp
17,000. Rice per serving is Rp 2,000.
Looks: Though this is a traditional eating house, we feel
something more could be done to make the decor just a little bit
more modern and appealing. We are talking about those little
"luxuries", like air-conditioning, which many people consider
important, especially those with the money to fork out Rp 37,000
for a steak.
They have ceiling fans, a color TV and some ethnic decorations
in the form of ceramics and woodcrafts that may win the hearts of
some guests.
The restaurant is clean overall and there is parking, which
may be one of the reasons it is popular.
Popular with...: Office workers from the nearby Cipete area,
shop assistants from the busy Jl. Fatmawati and Jl. Haji Nawi and
residents from the surrounding Gondangdia Selatan district.
Taste Factor: Average. Their steaks have been adapted to local
tastes with a sweet, peppery gravy, and chili sauce. But the cuts
are large -- a piece of well-done tenderloin was enough to fill
this diner up -- and they were tender. The sirloin and rib eye
were quite fatty.
Minus Points: Distant, uninterested service from the
waitresses. No questions about how we wanted our steaks, just a
curt interrogative of "local beef or not?"
Fortunately, there is a diagram hanging on the wall which
explains the different cuts of meat for newly converted steak
eaters.
With its limited menu it's not the best location to take a big
party of people, some of whom may not have a liking for red meat.
Verdict: A plus is that the imported meat comes from
Australia, one of the few countries in the world which has
escaped the scourge of mad cow disease. The steak is tender but
nothing exceptional (the addition of a greater choice of sauces
and gravies might do the trick). The service could be more lively
and the decor is pretty basic. Still, if you need a red meat fix
and want it for a reasonable price, these steaks may be worth a
bite. (Denny Putri)