Maria Endah Hulupi

Maria Endah Hulupi
The Jakarta Post
Jakarta

It would not come as a surprise if France's culinary scene was
depicted as a delicious combination of old traditions and the
arts.

The country is home to some of the world's most famous
sumptuous dishes and desserts, all meticulously served in
artistic presentations, making any culinary experience there a
feast for the eyes as well.

The century-old traditions in making regional cheeses, wines
and other famous French fare are still preserved for the sake of
consistency and the tradition itself.

Every region in France also has its own distinctive cuisine as
a result of the use of fresh local produce, spices, herbs or
wines, thus putting its local flavors and culinary aromas in the
spotlight.

"The locals and chefs in each region create something very
specific by using cooking traditions, materials and ingredients
that are abundantly available in their respective areas," said
executive chef Eric Guilbert from Park Lane's Riva Bistro and
Bar.

This is the reason why French's long culinary history and
diversity have made it a famous destination among gourmets and
gastronomic travelers.

Eric, who recently participated as a delegate in the World
Pastry Cup and the prestigious Bocuse d'Or world cuisine contest
in Lyon, France, was inspired to indulge local French food lovers
in various regional dishes from his home country.

Eric plans to hold a gastronomic tour of four regions in
France at the Riva Bistro and Bar during which famous dishes from
each region will be prepared and served in the first week of the
next four months.

The four regions are: Brittany from March 7 to March 14,
Alsace from April 4 to April 11, Bordeaux from May 2 to May 9 and
Provence from June 6 to June 13. Regional wines or beers will
also be served to accompany the meals.

And to maintain consistency in flavor, the main ingredients
will be imported directly from France.

For the event, Eric will highlight Brittany's mainly rich
seafood dishes by using popular items, such as oysters, mussels,
clams, Saint Pierre fish (or John Dory fish), turbot, Bretagne
lobster and artichokes.

"The weather is cold and the regional dishes tend to be rich
and heavy to warm the body," he explained.

From the Alsace region, Eric will prepare various dishes,
including a local popular treat, choucroute, a thinly sliced
cabbage, fermented in white wine for four months and then
seasoned with garlic, whole baie de genievre (a sort of white
pepper) and cloves.

"After fermentation, the dish takes another six hours to
prepare. It is a casual dish eaten with sausages or bacon and
Alsatians usually eat it with beer," Eric said, explaining the
long cooking process of the dish, which used to be standard fare
for the poor.

His next stop is Bordeaux, a famous region known for its red
wines.

"Wine is an important ingredient in Bordeaux and it is used in
many dishes and desserts to make the sauces," Eric said.

Boef Bourguignon is among the region's specialties on the
menu. The dish consists of slow-cooked beef cubes, seasoned in
red wine with carrots, onions, herbs and garlic. The process
takes about 48 hours and the meat will turn purplish in color
because of the red wine. "The final dish has a tender texture and
you don't even need a knife to eat it," he said.

Apart from canneler de Bordeaux (a soft sponge cake), Eric
will also prepare other typical deserts, such as pears or figs,
slowly crystallized in wine and served with ice cream and a dash
of cinnamon.

For the final stop of the gastronomic tour, the chef will
bring the palatable aromas and colorful Provence style cuisine to
Riva.

"Fresh vegetables, such as red tomato or purple eggplants and
herbs, like tarragon and thyme, are widely used to make local
dishes," he said.

Featured on his menu of Provence food is the mild, but fresh
tang of pan-fried red mullet fillet with a tomato rosette,
zucchini and Parmesan and a salad with a balsamic vinegar
dressing. The chef balances the strong fish flavor of red mullet
with a lemon sauce and sliced tomatoes, while the colorful
rosette is refreshingly tasty.