Sun, 04 Jan 2004

Maneuvering around Milan

* Getting around: Going around town is easy with plenty of public transportation to choose from -- the bus, intercity trains, subway (Metro), trams and taxis.

Taking the Metro is the fastest and easiest way, with tickets available at 1 euro for single trips or 3 euros for a 24-hour pass. Those planning to stay longer can also purchase a weeklong ticket or a monthly pass.

For tourists, it's advised to keep the Metro map (available at most stations and hotels) handy and make sure you know which line of the three to take, which station you have to change lines at and which station is your stop. * Money: Most shops accept major credit cards and euro for cash, though some small shops, pizzeria or cafes still accept lira.

It's best to exchange your currency in a post office or bank since small money exchanges like those found at train stations or tourist areas take a bigger commission.

To withdraw money from international accounts, there are plenty of ATMs across the city.

* Shopping: Most of the major shopping malls in downtown Milan, like near the Cathedral, offer brand-name products. If you are looking for something local -- cheese, salami, antiques, drawings, books or handicrafts -- a better bet are fairs around the Cathedral area or small shops.

Keep in mind that most small shops, including grocery stores, close by 6 p.m., while bigger ones stay open until about 10 p.m.

* Bites to eat: Pizzeria or cafes can be found on most street corners, with prices varying from one place to another, depending on the popularity of the area.

The food on offer is popular Italian cuisine -- lasagna, risotto, ravioli, spaghetti and, of course, pizza. The taste of the food at the pizzeria or cafes is not too much different considering the cheaper price, but if you are looking for that real Italian flavor in an attractive setting, go to a restaurant, a bit pricey but satisfying.

At a pizzeria, a dinner for two -- lasagna, pizza, salads and great cappuccino latte -- cost us 25 euros (including tip), while at an Italian restaurant, we paid 60 euros for the same order.

There are also plenty of Chinese and Lebanese restaurants in town, but service tends to be slow (it took me 30 minutes just to get my order written down at a Chinese restaurant) and reservations are recommended if you don't want to be there when the restaurant is about to close.

Fast food joints like Burger King and McDonald's are on every corner, but did you come all the way to Italy to eat burgers?

* Places to stay: There are plenty of hotels around Milan to choose from, depending on your budget. It's advisable to surf the Internet to learn more about the place you intend to stay at and the services available before you check in.

* Nightlife: Streets around the church of San Lorenzo are said to be the in hangouts for the young, with many bars, cafes and clubs around.

Pubs, clubs, wine bars and restaurants in a picturesque setting can also be found in the canal district, which starts at Piazza 24 Maggio and runs along two remaining canals in Milan, Alzaia Naviglio Grande and Via Ascanio Sforza. They are pricey and you are still expected to give a tip even though the bill includes taxes.

For those who simply want to spend the day at a relaxing Milanese pace, cafes in downtown fit the bill, as they will allow you to melt in with your surroundings while savoring Italian food and sipping that tasty cappuccino.

-- Stevie Emilia