Manado's cuisine at Waroeng Chamoe-Chamoe
JAKARTA (JP): Diners who are after a taste of Indonesian cuisine which runs farther afield than fried rice and soto (chicken broth) find themselves spoiled for choice on Jl. Panglima Polim IV in South Jakarta.
A few hundred meters apart are two restaurants serving up cuisine from Manado, North Sulawesi. However, their presence so close together is not a glaring case of free competition. An inquiry to a waiter at Waroeng Chamoe-Chamoe revealed that the restaurants are owned by a couple, with the husband's eatery specializing in seafood and the wife's highlighting fish and chicken dishes.
With our tastes running to poultry, Epicurus and companion stepped into Waroeng Chamoe-Chamoe, which was bustling at Sunday brunch time. The demographics of the diners -- big parties of families -- were in themselves a good sign of the quality of food in store. The restaurant, which apparently has been open for several months, has passed the initial novelty phase when all and sundry come out to try its wares.
Although the place was crowded, the layout of the restaurant is such that we did not feel cramped or forced into becoming passive observers of the dining habits of our neighbors (although one of them was Theo Sambuaga, a former minister of manpower, whose presence invited a couple of double-takes). It is rustic with spare decor and tropical plants serving as discreet partitions between the sections.
There is a long list of fish, from grouper to carp to tuna, with the options being fried or grilled and with accompanying sauces, including the distinctive rica-rica chili sauce of the region. However, we were interested in fowl, not fish, and chose three dishes, plus a portion of corn cakes and vegetables in turmeric.
Of the three main dishes, the chicken smothered in spices and cooked in bamboo was outstanding, a medley of complimentary flavors. Also delicious was chicken wokublanga, a light stew of meat, spices (the waiter said 15 types) and vegetables.
Less to our liking was the chicken cooked in coconut milk with potatoes; we both found it watery, bland and unappealing. Still, it was two raves for the entrees, and an even better bet were the corn cakes. Huge mounds filled with corn and fried golden brown, they were delicious scooped up with the rica-rica sauce. The combination was so good, in fact, that both Epicurus and companion got a little carried away, only to pay an inevitable price later on.
The portions were so large that we were unable to do justice to the vegetables (lots of shallots) and nuts in turmeric, a crunchy, delicately flavored vegetarian's delight. It was indicative of one of our two minor gripes about the restaurant (the other was the dripping air-conditioner behind Epicurus' back) in that it took a while for the dishes to be served, and then they came in a kind of staggered delivery. It was not only Epicurus' problem, but also of the aforesaid Mr. Sambuaga, who waited and waited for his grilled fish to make its appearance.
The emphasis is on "minor" distractions in an otherwise excellent dining experience. A special word also for the desserts. Manadonese cuisine, perhaps more so than any other Indonesian regional food, offers a great variety of desserts, particularly Dutch-influenced tarts and cakes. We feasted later on two pieces of klapertaart, the Manadonese speciality of coconut, raisins and a bit of rum, but there were many types of cakes to choose from.
A must for coffee lovers is a cup of the restaurant's soybean coffee, made from ground roasted soybeans. Epicurus had only tried it once before, made by an old Chinese-Indonesian woman in Cirebon, but it's unique sweet taste is never forgotten (Epicurus told the restaurant manager in parting that she should consider selling it in bulk to lovers of a good brew).
Our groaning feast came to Rp 108,500, including dessert, coffee and other drinks, making it one of the best value meals this diner has had in a long while. It also distinguished it as a great place to try out something from up north.
-- Epicurus