Manado's cuisine at Waroeng Chamoe-Chamoe

Manado's cuisine at Waroeng Chamoe-Chamoe

JAKARTA (JP): Diners who are after a taste of Indonesian
cuisine which runs farther afield than fried rice and soto
(chicken broth) find themselves spoiled for choice on Jl.
Panglima Polim IV in South Jakarta.

A few hundred meters apart are two restaurants serving up
cuisine from Manado, North Sulawesi. However, their presence so
close together is not a glaring case of free competition. An
inquiry to a waiter at Waroeng Chamoe-Chamoe revealed that the
restaurants are owned by a couple, with the husband's eatery
specializing in seafood and the wife's highlighting fish and
chicken dishes.

With our tastes running to poultry, Epicurus and companion
stepped into Waroeng Chamoe-Chamoe, which was bustling at Sunday
brunch time. The demographics of the diners -- big parties of
families -- were in themselves a good sign of the quality of food
in store. The restaurant, which apparently has been open for
several months, has passed the initial novelty phase when all and
sundry come out to try its wares.

Although the place was crowded, the layout of the restaurant
is such that we did not feel cramped or forced into becoming
passive observers of the dining habits of our neighbors (although
one of them was Theo Sambuaga, a former minister of manpower,
whose presence invited a couple of double-takes). It is rustic
with spare decor and tropical plants serving as discreet
partitions between the sections.

There is a long list of fish, from grouper to carp to tuna,
with the options being fried or grilled and with accompanying
sauces, including the distinctive rica-rica chili sauce of the
region. However, we were interested in fowl, not fish, and chose
three dishes, plus a portion of corn cakes and vegetables in
turmeric.

Of the three main dishes, the chicken smothered in spices and
cooked in bamboo was outstanding, a medley of complimentary
flavors. Also delicious was chicken wokublanga, a light stew of
meat, spices (the waiter said 15 types) and vegetables.

Less to our liking was the chicken cooked in coconut milk with
potatoes; we both found it watery, bland and unappealing. Still,
it was two raves for the entrees, and an even better bet were the
corn cakes. Huge mounds filled with corn and fried golden brown,
they were delicious scooped up with the rica-rica sauce. The
combination was so good, in fact, that both Epicurus and
companion got a little carried away, only to pay an inevitable
price later on.

The portions were so large that we were unable to do justice
to the vegetables (lots of shallots) and nuts in turmeric, a
crunchy, delicately flavored vegetarian's delight. It was
indicative of one of our two minor gripes about the restaurant
(the other was the dripping air-conditioner behind Epicurus'
back) in that it took a while for the dishes to be served, and
then they came in a kind of staggered delivery. It was not only
Epicurus' problem, but also of the aforesaid Mr. Sambuaga, who
waited and waited for his grilled fish to make its appearance.

The emphasis is on "minor" distractions in an otherwise
excellent dining experience. A special word also for the
desserts. Manadonese cuisine, perhaps more so than any other
Indonesian regional food, offers a great variety of desserts,
particularly Dutch-influenced tarts and cakes. We feasted later
on two pieces of klapertaart, the Manadonese speciality of
coconut, raisins and a bit of rum, but there were many types of
cakes to choose from.

A must for coffee lovers is a cup of the restaurant's soybean
coffee, made from ground roasted soybeans. Epicurus had only
tried it once before, made by an old Chinese-Indonesian woman in
Cirebon, but it's unique sweet taste is never forgotten (Epicurus
told the restaurant manager in parting that she should consider
selling it in bulk to lovers of a good brew).

Our groaning feast came to Rp 108,500, including dessert,
coffee and other drinks, making it one of the best value meals
this diner has had in a long while. It also distinguished it as a
great place to try out something from up north.

-- Epicurus