Making a short stopover in Surabaya

Maria Endah Hulupi, The Jakarta Post, Surabaya

"Welcome to Surabaya, the City of Heroes," an employee at a five-star hotel greeted a group of foreigners.

The motto of Surabaya, the provincial capital of East Java, is meant to remind Indonesians of the bravery shown by locals during a battle on Nov. 10, 1945, during the struggle for independence.

The name Surabaya literally means sura (a local fish) and baya (crocodile). According to a 12th century myth, the name came about following a legendary battle between two friends, the sura fish and the baya, who had vowed to live together in harmony.

But a clash occurred over whose descendant would be the leader. The two fought to the death and their bodies were discovered on a beach. The myth was carved on the wall of Selamangleng cave on Klotok hill, Kediri, East Java. A monument to the fish and the crocodile was erected near the Surabaya Zoo as a symbol of the city.

Hot, dusty Surabaya has been an important trading port for centuries, and in the modern era has developed into the country's second largest city with modern buildings scattered throughout the city.

The city is dotted with monuments depicting its vital role in the country's battle for independence.

Among Surabaya's historical sites are Jembatan Merah (the red bridge), which commemorates the Nov. 10, 1945, battle. In the city square on Jl. Pahlawan sits the Heroes Monument, in honor of all those who died in the battle. Nationally, the country commemorates Heroes Day on Nov. 10.

To learn more about the history of the Indonesian Armed Forces and its role in winning the country's independence, visit Museum Perjuangan 45 (1945 Struggle Museum) on Jl. Maj. Gen. Sungkono.

The country's largest naval base is located in the city and situated on the base is the Loka Jala Crana Museum and its collection of Indonesian Naval equipment.

Near the Gubeng Train Station a Russian-made Pasopati 410 SS Whiskey Class submarine is displayed.

"This submarine, which can hold 60-personnel and weighs 1,350 tons, was manufactured in 1952 and the Navy used it in operations for the very first time in 1962. Its last operation was in late 1989," said former crewman Sgt. Maj. (ret) Suyadi, who is the monument's attendant.

"The submarine had four front torpedoes and two in the rear, but could carry as many as 12 torpedoes. It was involved in 28 operations and was among the naval fleet that freed West Irian (now Irian Jaya) from Dutch occupation," said the former technician, who now explains to visitors the ins and outs of operating a submarine.

The public can also learn more about the country's naval history, from Adm. Malahayati, the Aceh Sultanate military commander (1589-1604) who led 100 ships to expel Portuguese and Dutch soldiers from Aceh, to the legendary vessels Dewa Ruci and Arung Samudra, which sailed around the world in 1964 and 1996 respectively.

Young people can find inexpensive nighttime amusement at Taman Remaja Surabaya. For between Rp 1,000 and Rp 3,000, visitors can play various games, with the possibility of going home with prizes ranging from sodas and snacks to rice cookers and electric fans.

Those who prefer indoor recreation can try Tunjungan Plaza, which is like the malls in Jakarta that are favored by families.

There is also Surabaya Zoo on Jl. Setail. It is reportedly the largest zoo in Southeast Asia. Among its large collection of creatures is the famous Komodo dragon and several kinds of nocturnal animals, including bats.

Surabaya, like many cities in East Java, is famous for its seafood, including petis and terasi (two kinds of shrimp paste), and krupuk (fish crackers).

Other local foods are kupang lontong (sweet baby clam soup served with rice wrapped in banana leaves), rujak cingur (vegetables with cow's nose), rawon (dark beef soup) and nasi bebek (fried duck with rice).

Before you leave Surabaya, be sure to buy some souvenirs in the Tanggul Angin district, Sidoarjo. This area holds dozens of small shops selling a wide variety of leather goods, including shoes, bags, wallets and jackets.