Magical visit to gate to earth's stomach

Magical visit to gate to earth's stomach

By Ridlo Aryanto

KEBUMEN, Central Java (JP): Kebumen, a hilly regency about two
hours drive west of Yogyakarta, is one of only a few places in
Java which boasts extensive caves suitable for adventure.

The regency has been busy promoting Goa (cave) Petruk. Lying
in the Karangbolong hills some 18 kilometers southwest of the
town, the cave has yet to match Jatijajar cave, which is in the
same general area, in terms of popularity but in fact it is quite
a challenge for adventurers.

Petruk cave is called "the gate to the stomach of the earth"
and boasts gorgeous stalagmites which protrude from the cave's
floor and stalactites which hang from the roof. It is more
fascinating than Jatijajar cave, where the main attraction
consists of government-commissioned statues related to the folk
legend Kamandaka.

"But it takes a little bit more effort to get into Petruk
cave," Banyumas Regent Rustriningsih said.

The regent is correct. The regency has spent millions of
rupiah building stairways from the parking lot to the cave's
entrance. After you park your car and pay the Rp 2,000 entrance
fee, you must climb a winding 900-step-stairway to the cave's
entrance.

Welcome to the cave. The cave keeper is Suparjono, or Pak
Jono, 45, and he is assisted by four tour guides.

Armed with kerosene lamps, the guides lead you through the
700-meter-deep cave consisting of three levels.

The one-meter path on the first level is slippery and winding.
Be careful because a small stream flows from the top level down
to the lowest. The tough path is a challenge.

Stalactites on the walls by the stream will greet you a few
minutes after you enter the cave. Their shapes are unique. One
has the shape of a banyan tree, the Golkar Party symbol, and is
brown on the bottom half and yellow on top.

A few meters above the banyan-tree-shaped stalactite the tough
path heads up to the second level.

As soon as you set foot on the second level, you can see on
the wall a stalactite in the shape of a 75-centimeter-tall
bearded old man. A stream of water flows onto the figure's head;
its shiny white beard reflects the light from the kerosene lamp.

A few steps from the "old man stone" lies a brownish boulder
in the shape of a 50-centimeter-tall peanut. Close to the
"peanut" is an elephant-shaped rock.

Just before you step onto the third level, you will encounter
a small lagoon where light brown shrimp and crabs live in the
clear water.

"In the past, the shrimps and crabs were so abundant that
every time people touched the water, the animals would gather
thinking that the hands would feed them. Now only a few of them
are left because people have caught most of them as souvenirs,"
said Pak Jono.

Legend has it that the lagoon was at one time inhabited by a
pair of white turtles believed to be the reincarnated forms of Ki
Panjer and his wife, two local ascetics who disappeared to unite
with God. According to the legend, the couple disappeared after
living in the cave for several years to obtain magical power.

Many locals, especially the older people, believe that the
white turtles appear every New Year's Eve on the Javanese
calendar.

"Now no ascetics live in the cave anymore but, yes, a lot of
lovesick couples come here for fun," Pak Jono joked.

The most exotic view inside the cave is found on the "balcony"
of the third level. Upon setting foot on the third level,
visitors see a 2.5-meter stalagmite forming the figure of Semar,
a short, large-bottomed character from the Javanese shadow plays.
Semar is the father of the clown Petruk, after whom the cave is
named.

The Semar stalagmite appears to be smiling at dozens of rocks
shaped like women's breasts hanging from the roof.

"It is widely believed unmarried people who can reach up and
touch the 'breasts' will soon get a wife or husband," Pak Jono
explained.

So where is Petruk? "There he is on the ceiling," exclaimed
Pak Jono. He pointed at the ceiling where there is a silhouette
of Petruk. The figure is formed by shadows of rocks when the sun
penetrates the cave trough openings and crevices.

Pak Jono said anyone who can reach Petruk's hand on the roof
will see their wishes come true. But, alas, the roof is 12 meters
high and only the geckos can touch Petruk.

The cave has a "window" on the third level, from which
visitors can enjoy a view of Karang Bolong beach, an oil refinery
in Cilacap and beyond this Nusakambangan island.

Upon descending from the wonderful cave, young coconuts await
you in the parking lot. It can be a tiring trip through the cave
but it is worth the effort.

The cave is easy to reach from the town of Kebumen. If you do
not have your own vehicle, there are numerous public vans you can
take to the cave.