Magical visit to gate to earth's stomach

By Ridlo Aryanto

KEBUMEN, Central Java (JP): Kebumen, a hilly regency about two hours drive west of Yogyakarta, is one of only a few places in Java which boasts extensive caves suitable for adventure.

The regency has been busy promoting Goa (cave) Petruk. Lying in the Karangbolong hills some 18 kilometers southwest of the town, the cave has yet to match Jatijajar cave, which is in the same general area, in terms of popularity but in fact it is quite a challenge for adventurers.

Petruk cave is called "the gate to the stomach of the earth" and boasts gorgeous stalagmites which protrude from the cave's floor and stalactites which hang from the roof. It is more fascinating than Jatijajar cave, where the main attraction consists of government-commissioned statues related to the folk legend Kamandaka.

"But it takes a little bit more effort to get into Petruk cave," Banyumas Regent Rustriningsih said.

The regent is correct. The regency has spent millions of rupiah building stairways from the parking lot to the cave's entrance. After you park your car and pay the Rp 2,000 entrance fee, you must climb a winding 900-step-stairway to the cave's entrance.

Welcome to the cave. The cave keeper is Suparjono, or Pak Jono, 45, and he is assisted by four tour guides.

Armed with kerosene lamps, the guides lead you through the 700-meter-deep cave consisting of three levels.

The one-meter path on the first level is slippery and winding. Be careful because a small stream flows from the top level down to the lowest. The tough path is a challenge.

Stalactites on the walls by the stream will greet you a few minutes after you enter the cave. Their shapes are unique. One has the shape of a banyan tree, the Golkar Party symbol, and is brown on the bottom half and yellow on top.

A few meters above the banyan-tree-shaped stalactite the tough path heads up to the second level.

As soon as you set foot on the second level, you can see on the wall a stalactite in the shape of a 75-centimeter-tall bearded old man. A stream of water flows onto the figure's head; its shiny white beard reflects the light from the kerosene lamp.

A few steps from the "old man stone" lies a brownish boulder in the shape of a 50-centimeter-tall peanut. Close to the "peanut" is an elephant-shaped rock.

Just before you step onto the third level, you will encounter a small lagoon where light brown shrimp and crabs live in the clear water.

"In the past, the shrimps and crabs were so abundant that every time people touched the water, the animals would gather thinking that the hands would feed them. Now only a few of them are left because people have caught most of them as souvenirs," said Pak Jono.

Legend has it that the lagoon was at one time inhabited by a pair of white turtles believed to be the reincarnated forms of Ki Panjer and his wife, two local ascetics who disappeared to unite with God. According to the legend, the couple disappeared after living in the cave for several years to obtain magical power.

Many locals, especially the older people, believe that the white turtles appear every New Year's Eve on the Javanese calendar.

"Now no ascetics live in the cave anymore but, yes, a lot of lovesick couples come here for fun," Pak Jono joked.

The most exotic view inside the cave is found on the "balcony" of the third level. Upon setting foot on the third level, visitors see a 2.5-meter stalagmite forming the figure of Semar, a short, large-bottomed character from the Javanese shadow plays. Semar is the father of the clown Petruk, after whom the cave is named.

The Semar stalagmite appears to be smiling at dozens of rocks shaped like women's breasts hanging from the roof.

"It is widely believed unmarried people who can reach up and touch the 'breasts' will soon get a wife or husband," Pak Jono explained.

So where is Petruk? "There he is on the ceiling," exclaimed Pak Jono. He pointed at the ceiling where there is a silhouette of Petruk. The figure is formed by shadows of rocks when the sun penetrates the cave trough openings and crevices.

Pak Jono said anyone who can reach Petruk's hand on the roof will see their wishes come true. But, alas, the roof is 12 meters high and only the geckos can touch Petruk.

The cave has a "window" on the third level, from which visitors can enjoy a view of Karang Bolong beach, an oil refinery in Cilacap and beyond this Nusakambangan island.

Upon descending from the wonderful cave, young coconuts await you in the parking lot. It can be a tiring trip through the cave but it is worth the effort.

The cave is easy to reach from the town of Kebumen. If you do not have your own vehicle, there are numerous public vans you can take to the cave.