Long-famed for its tolerance, Bali deals with religious tension

By I Wayan Juniarta and Rita Widiadana

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): Predominantly Hindu Bali has long been held up as a model of religious tolerance.

The observance of Christmas, Galungan and Idul Fitri within weeks of each other this year was not a source of division on the famed resort island of Bali.

But while the Christian, Hindu and Islamic holidays passed without major incident, there were several events which showed how quickly religious discontent can surface.

The post-fasting month Idul Fitri holiday was observed with solemnity and joy by Bali's Muslims. In several Muslim villages such as Kepaon and Java in Denpasar, people celebrated the end of Ramadhan.

In Bugis village, Muslims flocked to Awaliyah Mosque in Singaraja to perform the Ied prayer marking the end of the fasting month.

Farida, whose family is from Situbondo, East Java, rejoiced with other Muslims despite the heavy rain on the day.

She remembered a time when there were few Muslims in Bali.

"I felt so sad and cried aloud on the eve of Idul Fitri when I first came to the city almost 15 years ago," recalled Farida, whose husband runs a minimarket in downtown Singaraja.

Today, the Muslim population has swelled to such numbers that they can gather to perform tarawih, the nightly prayer during Ramadhan, and Ied.

"There are a lot of people from Madura, Pasuruan, Jombang and even from West Java who reside in Singaraja. This Idul Fitri celebration was more joyous," she explained.

Hundreds of Muslim families celebrated at Lovina beach, North Bali, and Pulaki beach.

Abdullah, a resident of Bugis village, said there was religious harmony in Buleleng regency. The regency is home to Balinese, Javanese, Bugis, Madurese, and descendants of Chinese, Indians and Arabs.

"There are Hindu temples, mosques, churches, a Buddhist temple, Chinese temples around here and so far we respect each other's beliefs," he said.

There was minor unrest shortly before Idul Fitri involving hundreds of villagers from Sekarmukti, 30 kilometers north of Denpasar.

But it had nothing to do with religion; the villagers were demanding proper water distribution from the provincial water company.

Despite the joy of celebrations and the outward respect toward other religions, religious friction did emerge.

In December 1999, a number of Hindu student activists lodged a complaint with the provincial legislature concerning the dissemination of Bibles written in Balinese.

The bible, distributed door-to-door by Jehovah's Witnesses, contains Hindu terminology and symbols to explain Christian teachings.

"God is translated into Ida Sanghyang Widhi Wasa, while Jesus was declared the son of Ida Sanghyang Widhi Wasa," said an activist of Aksi Kerukunan Umat, a student group.

The conflict came to a head on Christmas Day when the Denpasar affiliate of the state-owned TVRI network presented an operetta, Yesus Sang Penebus (Jesus the Savior), performed by Tri Tunggal Maha Kudus, Tuka.

The usage of Hindu terminology, rituals and symbols caused an uproar among the Balinese.

An apology from Father Frederikus Dhay and TVRI's management failed to soothe the discontent.

The protests have spilled over to affect the Widya Pura and Swastiastu foundations, which run Christian schools in Denpasar.

Protesters claim the two foundations use Sanskrit words in their names which are closely tied to Hinduism, but the religion is not taught at the school.

Administrators of the foundations have reportedly been forced to change the organizations' names.

In the same month, privately run Indosiar was criticized for using the sacred word Om in its millennium program, Milleni-Om, held at Canggu tourist location. In Balinese Hindu, Om is the most sacred word denoting God and the Universe.

RCTI, another Jakarta-based private television station, canceled its presentation of the Sanghyang Dedari dance, which was recorded at the holy site of Gunung Kawi in Gianyar, for its global millennial program following strong objections from community leaders.

The friction is nothing new. A few years ago, Nirwana Bali Resort, located only a few hundred meters from the sacred Tanah Lot Temple, caused an uproar with an advertisement for a golf course featuring golf balls atop canang (ritual offerings).

The secretary-general of the Parisada Hindu Dharma Indonesia in Bali, IB Gunadha, said the problem stemmed from low education of locals and the fear they could be exploited.

"It may be easy for people to provoke them and to contaminate their minds with other teachings and values," said Gunadha.

Some Balinese fear that other religions are looking for converts on the island.

"Such a sensitivity is actually odd and inconceivable because the Balinese have lived with other communities for hundreds of years," said chairman of the Balinese Muslim Students Association Asep Shahna.

"We feel so uneasy. I suspect there is a scenario to be played out on the island to disturb religious harmony."

Australian anthropologist Adrian Vickers revealed in his study of Hinduism and Islam in Bali in his paper Bali and the Pesisir World that Muslim communities existed in Bali hundreds of years ago, starting with Dalem Ktut in Gelgel.

Muslim villages were established across the island, including Kampong Jawa in Klungkung (East Bali), Saren Jawa (Karangasem, East Bali), Loloan in Jembrana (West Bali), Banjar Jawa and Pegayaman village in Buleleng (North Bali) and Kepaon village in Denpasar.

Vickers said Hindu and Muslim communities have lived side by side for centuries.

In some Hindu temples near Muslim villages like Banjar Madura in Sanur and temples in Bratan, North Bali, Hindus praise a deity named Dewa Gde Madura. In these villages, pork is not used in offerings.

Weapons believed to have belonged to Muslims have been kept as holy objects in some temples.

It is clear the Balinese have long respected people of different cultural and religious backgrounds. But the impact of globalization, tourism, telecommunications and commercialism have changed the demographic composition.

Despite recent problems, the history of tolerance will hopefully prevent the rise of the intercultural and sectarian conflicts tearing at the heart of communities in other parts of the country.