Leather looking good for Yogyakarta designers

Leather looking good for Yogyakarta designers

By R. Agus Bakti

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Is Indonesia, especially Yogyakarta, primping
to take its place on the international fashion stage for its
leatherwear?

It may well be getting there, with supporting facilities such
as vocational schools in fashion and higher education
institutions providing a boost.

There is also the Institute for Research and Development of
Leather, Rubber and Plastic Goods (BBPPKP), as well as the
Leather Technology Academy, the only one of its kind in the
country.

The institute is known for its leather, including leather
goods and leatherwear.

In the Technological Potential Exhibition, held in mid-July at
the institute on Jl. Sukonandi Yogyakarta, a collection of
leatherwear was displayed by Yogyakarta models.

One of the institute's designers, Sotja Prajati, said
Indonesia had the potential to become a hub for fashion
development, especially leatherwear.

Sotja, who studied leatherwear in Italy, said the supporting
infrastructure and other components were in place. "It's only a
matter of maximizing the potential that is already there.
Actually, the leather in Indonesia is of different varieties and
selection. This is beneficial to designers."

As an institution under the Ministry of Trade and Industry,
BBPPKP has a responsibility to take part in the development of
the leatherwear industry, such as in supporting the exhibition
which was open to the public.

The event featured a variety of leatherwear goods, like
jackets, skirts and vests. There also were accessories, such as
shoes, bags and belts. All of them were designed in the
department of Leatherwear Goods Industry Development. Also on
show were tanned leather, such as suede and jackets, with
distinctive leather natural colors such as earth tones and brick-
red.

The clothes are suitable for relaxed times, such as a late-
afternoon stroll or to go to a party, combined with jeans and a
shirt, for a funky and cool look. However, their designs remain
true to esthetics and are especially directed to teenagers.

Even the castoff pieces of leather can be patched together and
made into vests.

Sotja said the process of designing leatherwear was exciting
and presented its own challenges compared to other types of
textiles.

"Every piece of leather, from one type of animal, presents its
own types of problems. It's even more so if the leather is from
different types of animals."

He added that it was not the same with other types of cloth,
such as those with uniform or factory produced.

Sojta follows several steps to produce his leatherwear. He
makes the design, the patterns, and then transfers it to blaco
fabric. This is the prototype which is transferred to the
leather.

There is a special technique for cutting the leather, which
also applies to if the stitches are to be featured prominently in
the end design. The leather has its own elasticity, which means
care must be taken in the positioning of the leather across and
lengthwise to ensure it is suitable for the design. The designer
is challenged to be creative.

Leather from different types of animals has its own qualities,
which can be properly used if the designer understands and has
the skills. Sheep leather is ideal for women's clothing; cow hide
is good for garments and jackets.

Sotja acknowledged that the country's climate, with only two
seasons compared to Europe's four, was also a hindrance to the
development of the industry, in addition to lack of technology.

"Our advantage is that we have such variety in our choice of
leather. There is even chicken or fish skin, not only reptile and
cow hide."

The sheer variety of skins to choose from could be what is
needed to give the country a competitive edge on the leatherwear
front. The products -- from belts to earrings, hats, hair clips
and other accessories, and bags, wallets and shoes -- are already
on the market to support its development.

Yogyakarta's designers are known for their creativity, but
it's unfortunate that the emergence of a popular new design will
immediately attract copycats.

Sotja said there were only a few designers of leatherwear in
the country.

"If we mention Iwan Tirta, people automatically think of batik
wear, because that is distinctive to him. For leatherwear, there
are still only a few."

Most Indonesian designers still focus on textiles, which
leaves great opportunities for the taking in the relatively
unexplored world of leatherwear. Those brave enough to take the
challenge can achieve results on the same level of designers of
other textiles. Designing leather is not merely a sideline, but
has the potential to be a full business.

"It needs to be taken into account that designing leatherwear
must still be guided by the idea of being fashionable. My
personal hope is that we will see the emergence of designers in
the leather field who will open their own fashion houses, like in
Italy."

His hope for Indonesian leatherwear to establish an
international reputation may well come true, especially as
leather clothes always leave an impression of elegance and
exclusivity.