Leather looking good for Yogyakarta designers

By R. Agus Bakti

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Is Indonesia, especially Yogyakarta, primping to take its place on the international fashion stage for its leatherwear?

It may well be getting there, with supporting facilities such as vocational schools in fashion and higher education institutions providing a boost.

There is also the Institute for Research and Development of Leather, Rubber and Plastic Goods (BBPPKP), as well as the Leather Technology Academy, the only one of its kind in the country.

The institute is known for its leather, including leather goods and leatherwear.

In the Technological Potential Exhibition, held in mid-July at the institute on Jl. Sukonandi Yogyakarta, a collection of leatherwear was displayed by Yogyakarta models.

One of the institute's designers, Sotja Prajati, said Indonesia had the potential to become a hub for fashion development, especially leatherwear.

Sotja, who studied leatherwear in Italy, said the supporting infrastructure and other components were in place. "It's only a matter of maximizing the potential that is already there. Actually, the leather in Indonesia is of different varieties and selection. This is beneficial to designers."

As an institution under the Ministry of Trade and Industry, BBPPKP has a responsibility to take part in the development of the leatherwear industry, such as in supporting the exhibition which was open to the public.

The event featured a variety of leatherwear goods, like jackets, skirts and vests. There also were accessories, such as shoes, bags and belts. All of them were designed in the department of Leatherwear Goods Industry Development. Also on show were tanned leather, such as suede and jackets, with distinctive leather natural colors such as earth tones and brick- red.

The clothes are suitable for relaxed times, such as a late- afternoon stroll or to go to a party, combined with jeans and a shirt, for a funky and cool look. However, their designs remain true to esthetics and are especially directed to teenagers.

Even the castoff pieces of leather can be patched together and made into vests.

Sotja said the process of designing leatherwear was exciting and presented its own challenges compared to other types of textiles.

"Every piece of leather, from one type of animal, presents its own types of problems. It's even more so if the leather is from different types of animals."

He added that it was not the same with other types of cloth, such as those with uniform or factory produced.

Sojta follows several steps to produce his leatherwear. He makes the design, the patterns, and then transfers it to blaco fabric. This is the prototype which is transferred to the leather.

There is a special technique for cutting the leather, which also applies to if the stitches are to be featured prominently in the end design. The leather has its own elasticity, which means care must be taken in the positioning of the leather across and lengthwise to ensure it is suitable for the design. The designer is challenged to be creative.

Leather from different types of animals has its own qualities, which can be properly used if the designer understands and has the skills. Sheep leather is ideal for women's clothing; cow hide is good for garments and jackets.

Sotja acknowledged that the country's climate, with only two seasons compared to Europe's four, was also a hindrance to the development of the industry, in addition to lack of technology.

"Our advantage is that we have such variety in our choice of leather. There is even chicken or fish skin, not only reptile and cow hide."

The sheer variety of skins to choose from could be what is needed to give the country a competitive edge on the leatherwear front. The products -- from belts to earrings, hats, hair clips and other accessories, and bags, wallets and shoes -- are already on the market to support its development.

Yogyakarta's designers are known for their creativity, but it's unfortunate that the emergence of a popular new design will immediately attract copycats.

Sotja said there were only a few designers of leatherwear in the country.

"If we mention Iwan Tirta, people automatically think of batik wear, because that is distinctive to him. For leatherwear, there are still only a few."

Most Indonesian designers still focus on textiles, which leaves great opportunities for the taking in the relatively unexplored world of leatherwear. Those brave enough to take the challenge can achieve results on the same level of designers of other textiles. Designing leather is not merely a sideline, but has the potential to be a full business.

"It needs to be taken into account that designing leatherwear must still be guided by the idea of being fashionable. My personal hope is that we will see the emergence of designers in the leather field who will open their own fashion houses, like in Italy."

His hope for Indonesian leatherwear to establish an international reputation may well come true, especially as leather clothes always leave an impression of elegance and exclusivity.