Langkawi, island of eagles and legends

A. Junaidi, The Jakarta Post, Langkawi, Malaysia

Two red eagles soared over the popular Cenang Beach on Langkawi Island, Malaysia, as a few European tourists relaxed on the white sand.

The beach -- probably like many other beaches in the island such as Tanjung Rhu, Kok and Pasir Hitam, or even beaches in other ASEAN countries -- was quiet, especially after the huge tsunami hit the region on Dec. 26.

The people of this island off the coast of Malaysia are sure of their fortune, even though their beautiful white beaches have been somewhat quiet over the last month. After all, the tsunami missed them, and the tourists are still coming.

"We believe the 'curse' has been lifted now, and that prosperity will once again be ours," said Hasbullah of the Langkawi Tourism Action Council (LTAC), referring to the legend of Mahsuri.

Mahsuri was a beautiful young married woman who was unjustly accused of adultery and put to death some time in the 18th century. Legend has it that white blood flowed at her execution, proving her innocence, and with her dying breath, Mahsuri laid a curse upon the island that it would remain barren for seven generations.

The legend still holds firm sway over the Malaysian psyche through its plays, literature and movies.

Langkawi residents now believe that this seven-generation curse -- which includes Malaysia's occupation by the British and the Japanese -- has been lifted.

Today, Mahsuri's tomb, located in a traditional Malay village near Langkawi's capital town of Kuah, is a popular tourist destination.

Last week, hundreds of delegates from ASEAN member countries, Japan, China and South Korea, as well as dozens of journalists from media across the world -- including The Jakarta Post -- gathered at a gala dinner at the island's famous Dataran Lang, or Eagle Square, for the ASEAN Tourism Forum 2005.

Traditional dances and songs lit up by a fireworks show marked the opening ceremony for the forum, which was also attended by former Malaysian prime minister Mahathir Mohamad.

The development of Langkawi as a resort island started in the 1980s and was perceived to be the beginning of a time of prosperity for its people. Since then, hundreds of starred and non-starred hotels and resort accommodation, shopping malls as well as a 12-meter-high eagle statue, have sprouted.

The eagle is the symbol of the 478-square-kilometer island, and the name Langkawi is derived from lang (eagle) and kawi (red).

The statue, which overlooks the waters from Eagle Square, has become the island's icon. The park is popular place for picnics and to look for woodcraft related to local folklore.

Besides the curse, many tourist destinations in Langkawi also draw upon local legends.

The popular Air Hangat (hot spring) village to the north of Langkawi is related to a legend about a wedding party that went wrong when two giants started a brawl. The giants hurled and smashed banquet items, which gave rise to the island's main features.

The hot water they spilled turned into the springs at Air Hangat, where visitors can enjoy the bathing facilities.

Dayang Bunting (pregnant princess) island -- one of dozens of small islands dotted around Langkawi -- as its name indicates, is also legendary for its powers of fertility: a lovely princess placed a magic spell on a lake on the island, so that any childless woman who bathed in it would be able to bear a child.

Legend or not, many women reportedly become pregnant after bathing in the lake, and often return to the island. Incidentally, the island is shaped like a pregnant woman lying on her side, if seen from the direction of Langkawi.

Langkawi also boasts modern facilities such as shopping malls, golf courses and a 1.2-kilometer go-kart circuit, which is also a choice tourist pastime for those who have taken their fill of the island's natural beauty and wonders.

It is also host to the annual Tour de Langkawi, and dozens of professional cyclists from around the globe sped across the island.

Modern life, lush greenery and mystical tales make the stuff of Langkawi legend.