Lake Lindu, eco-tourism's little-explored haven

Bambang M., Lore Lindu Park, Central Sulawesi

As a tourist destination, the province of Central Sulawesi is not as famous as North and South Sulawesi. Despite being not as well known as its neighbors, Central Sulawesi boasts the 218,00 hectare Lore Lindu National Park, an area offering many an interesting site for tourists.

One of the must-visit tourist attractions in the park is Lake Lindu. Surrounded by thick forest, the lake measures about 3,750 hectares and lies at 1,000 meters above sea level. The water is clear blue, mixed with the green color of the surrounding foliage. At the edge of the lake stand a number of houses belonging to locals and cattle pens.

It is estimated that Lake Lindu is now 70 meters deep, though it was at one time 100 meters in depth. Scientists say it was formed by tectonic movement during the Pliocene era, some 1.6 to five million years ago.

Its origin aside, the lake is beautiful. If you sit along the bank at daybreak, you can watch the sun rise from behind Mount Nokilalaki, the golden yellow rays reflected on the surface of the water. Then, from afar, you can hear the buzzing engines of boats as the fishermen return home after a night spent out on the lake.

Lake Lindu is home to various species of birds, and you can hire a boat to take you around the lake for a little bird- watching. Bhakti, a forest ranger assigned to the national park center at Tomado village, will guide you for Rp 50,000 (about $5).

Morning is the best time for bird-watching because this is the time they feed at the edge of the lake. You can watch insect- eating birds feast on butterflies or dragonflies, and enjoy the sight of spotted whistling ducks feeding at the edge of the lake along with white egrets.

Brahmin Kite are often found perching on large trees growing along the bank of the lake. And when the sky suddenly comes alive with the a sound like the buzzing of a plane, you can be sure that red-knobbed hornbills have taken flight. These birds are spectacular sights, so if you go don't forget your binoculars.

The lake also was rich in various species of freshwater fish endemic to Sulawesi. Unfortunately, the mujair and the barb fish, introduced in 1950s, have killed off the lake's populations of many of these fish, leaving only one species, the Sogili.

To avoid the midday heat, you can take refuge in a tent -- which can be set up at the edge of the lake. Or you can stay at guest houses run by the national park center or the schistosomiasis laboratory in Tomado village, for Rp 50,000 per night plus three meals.

If you stay in the guest house owned by the lab, you can bird- watch all day, as they peck at the fruit of the large banyan tree growing in the backyard.

While at the lake, you can take trip to the island of Ball, located on the southern part of the lake. About five hectares in area, this uninhabited island is covered in thick forest. On the island, you can view a sandalwood coffin that was discovered in the 16th century.

Although only about 75 kilometers to the south of the provincial capital Palu, not many Palu residents have visited the lake. The main constraint is transportation.

To get there from Palu you take a small bus (in the direction of Kulawai) and get off at Sidaunta village, about 60 kilometers from Palu. Then you face the challenge of getting from Sidaunta to Lake Lindu, with your only option being a path.

To cover this 15-kilometer path, you can either walk or ride a horse. If you prefer the latter, you must arrive at Sidaunta between 10 a.m. and 12.p.m.

"(If you come) later than this, you are likely to find no more horses," said Idris, a nature lover from Palu. By horseback, you should be able to get to the lake in about three hours.

The horses also are used to carry various items for the residents of the four villages around the lake, namely Puro, Langko, Tomado and Anca. You can rent a horse for Rp 25,000, though it will cost you more if you have a lot of luggage.

If you are up to a 15-kilometer walk, you will enjoy some nice sights along the way. The first seven kilometers of the path will take you up and past thick forest. Trees taller than 40 meters will welcome you. In the valleys you will be able to admire wanga trees, which are endemic to Sulawesi.

Along the way you can enjoy the "orchestra" provided by various species of birds. You will hear the chirpings of kuluri (grosbeak starlings), Sulawesi crows/piping crows and the shrill of Sulawesi hawk-eagles. The last two species are endemic to the island.

If you keep your eyes peeled, you will see various insects in striking colors. And Sulawesi butterflies, famous for their sheer beauty, will flit through the air. But be on the alert for the snakes that call the area home.

After about seven kilometers, you will arrive at Station I, where you can have a brief rest. The next part of your journey will be easier as it is downhill. When you emerge from the forest, you will pass two villages, Puro and Langko, before finally reaching Tomado village. Besides being able to observe the activities of the locals, you can also buy some supplies for your journey. If there are no unforeseen complications, it should take about six hours to walk to the lake, which no doubt will be a beautiful sight for your tired body.

Just a small warning; make sure that you always wear shoes while in the lake area. Otherwise, you risk the chance of getting Schistosomiasis, which is carried by worms usually found in humid and wet areas.

Not all parts of the lake have the worm that causes this disease. So don't hesitate to ask Daniel Samel, the head of the Schistosomiasis lab for this disease in Tomado. He will tell you which areas are safe to visit. Take his advice and you will enjoy a safe trip to Lake Lindu. Remember, there are dangers lurking behind the beautiful face of nature.