Kikugawa: Excellent value and relaxing
JAKARTA (JP): If you happen to be in the vicinity of Taman Ismail Marzuki (TIM) and are feeling a bit peckish, then I can recommend no better place to eat than Kikugawa Japanese Restaurant.
It is one of the longest established restaurants of its kind in the city (having been around for 30 years), so they know exactly what diners want, and must be consistently getting it right, judging by its loyal customer base. Megawati Soekarnoputri (in the days when she had the time to do so) used to eat there from time to time, and the wait staff could probably rattle off a list of other famous names if you ask them.
Japanese Restaurant Kikugawa: Jl Cikini IV No. 13, Cikini, Central Jakarta, tel. 3150668.
Location: On Jl Cikini Raya, the main road that runs past TIM, take the second turning on the right after TIM. This is Jl Cikini IV, and the restaurant is about 150 meters down, on the left-hand side. There is no prominent signage outside, but a small parking lot at the front.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m. and again from 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m., Monday to Saturday. Major credit cards are accepted.
Looks: Unlike many other Japanese restaurants in the city, Kikugawa has a simple decor and a domestic ambience that create the feeling that you've just walked into someone's house, rather than one of those bright, glitzy, ruthlessly efficient city eateries (more often than not in an office building), where you are "processed" as just another customer. In fact, the restaurant reminded me of some of the laid-back cafes in Yogyakarta, where the relaxed atmosphere can be so appealing.
The single-storied building is well-shaded by trees, so even though the restaurant relies only on electric fans, it is pleasantly cool inside, yet the front door can be left open as a welcoming gesture. It can seat around 40 to 50 people, and there is some Tatami (private) seating at the back.
The wait staff were all friendly, pleasant and helpful, and made customers feel welcome.
What it's got: The menu is all Japanese, which means plenty of fish (both raw and grilled), grilled chicken and beef, soybean dishes (including soup) and vegetables (used as edible garnishes, or deep-fried in batter. Many of the items are offered in set menu form, and the menu itself is easy to understand, having plenty of photographs and descriptions in English of the contents of the dishes. It was a pleasant surprise that when the food came, it was exactly as it looked in the photos, if not better, as sometimes such photos can be a little misleading.
The drinks list is commendably short, with only five types of drinks available, but enough to cater for most tastes: sake (Japanese rice wine), beer, whisky, orange juice and soft drinks.
Taste factor: My companion and I ordered two types of kaiseki ryouri (a traditional, full-course Japanese meal). This included a clear soup and miso soup (made with tofu), sashimi (sliced raw fish), grilled fish and chicken (separate dishes), boiled fish, a kind of beef stew, tempura (sliced vegetables deep-fried in crispy batter), sukiyaki (sliced sirloin or chicken cooked in a savory sauce), steamed rice, pickles and dessert (slices of fresh fruit).
The array of food, when placed on the table, was really quite impressive, and more than enough for two people. In fact in my enthusiasm at the ordering stage, I'd ordered extra portions of both sashimi and tempura, and wasn't able to finish the latter!
Have you ever wondered why such a high proportion of the Japanese population lives to such a ripe old age? Part of the reason is their healthy diet, which includes raw fish. It may seem strange or even repulsive, if you have never tried it before, but it is one of the best ways of eating fish (as there is no grease, which most cooking processes would add, and the taste of the fish really comes through). However, the fish must be of the highest quality, and really fresh. At Kikugawa, the sashimi passed with flying colors on both counts.
Like all good Japanese restaurants, Kikugawa buys its fish daily, so you should aim to arrive early in the evening to avoid the disappointment of their having run out of fish for sashimi or sushi (raw fish on vinegared rice).
Price points: The meal above, including countless fill-ups of hot Japanese tea and an orange juice came to only Rp 175,000, including 10 percent tax -- incredible! I was expecting the bill to be at least Rp 100,000 more, and had we been eating at one of those glitzy places I mentioned above, the bill could easily have been on the other side of Rp 350,000. I'm sure part of the reason why Kikugawa can keep its prices so reasonable is because it offers mainly set meals rather than a la carte, but who cares? The food tastes the same anyway! Its overheads may be much lower too, as it does not have the crippling rent that a restaurant in an office skyscraper might have to pay.
Minus points: The only thing I could think of was that it is a little difficult to find the restaurant on the first visit, but it is so well-established in the area, anyone in the locality would be able to direct you there quite easily.
Verdict: Kikugawa's winning combination of great Japanese food, unbelievably good value and relaxing, laid-back atmosphere must make it almost unique in the city. This is a place that you must try, and I guarantee that you will be back for more! (Les Coffier)