Kikugawa: Excellent value and relaxing

Kikugawa: Excellent value and relaxing

JAKARTA (JP): If you happen to be in the vicinity of Taman
Ismail Marzuki (TIM) and are feeling a bit peckish, then I can
recommend no better place to eat than Kikugawa Japanese
Restaurant.

It is one of the longest established restaurants of its kind
in the city (having been around for 30 years), so they know
exactly what diners want, and must be consistently getting it
right, judging by its loyal customer base. Megawati Soekarnoputri
(in the days when she had the time to do so) used to eat there
from time to time, and the wait staff could probably rattle off a
list of other famous names if you ask them.

Japanese Restaurant Kikugawa: Jl Cikini IV No. 13, Cikini,
Central Jakarta, tel. 3150668.

Location: On Jl Cikini Raya, the main road that runs past
TIM, take the second turning on the right after TIM. This is Jl
Cikini IV, and the restaurant is about 150 meters down, on the
left-hand side. There is no prominent signage outside, but a
small parking lot at the front.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m. and again from 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.,
Monday to Saturday. Major credit cards are accepted.

Looks: Unlike many other Japanese restaurants in the city,
Kikugawa has a simple decor and a domestic ambience that create
the feeling that you've just walked into someone's house, rather
than one of those bright, glitzy, ruthlessly efficient city
eateries (more often than not in an office building), where you
are "processed" as just another customer. In fact, the restaurant
reminded me of some of the laid-back cafes in Yogyakarta, where
the relaxed atmosphere can be so appealing.

The single-storied building is well-shaded by trees, so even
though the restaurant relies only on electric fans, it is
pleasantly cool inside, yet the front door can be left open as a
welcoming gesture. It can seat around 40 to 50 people, and there
is some Tatami (private) seating at the back.

The wait staff were all friendly, pleasant and helpful, and
made customers feel welcome.

What it's got: The menu is all Japanese, which means plenty of
fish (both raw and grilled), grilled chicken and beef, soybean
dishes (including soup) and vegetables (used as edible garnishes,
or deep-fried in batter. Many of the items are offered in set
menu form, and the menu itself is easy to understand, having
plenty of photographs and descriptions in English of the contents
of the dishes. It was a pleasant surprise that when the food
came, it was exactly as it looked in the photos, if not better,
as sometimes such photos can be a little misleading.

The drinks list is commendably short, with only five types of
drinks available, but enough to cater for most tastes: sake
(Japanese rice wine), beer, whisky, orange juice and soft drinks.

Taste factor: My companion and I ordered two types of kaiseki
ryouri (a traditional, full-course Japanese meal). This included
a clear soup and miso soup (made with tofu), sashimi (sliced raw
fish), grilled fish and chicken (separate dishes), boiled fish, a
kind of beef stew, tempura (sliced vegetables deep-fried in
crispy batter), sukiyaki (sliced sirloin or chicken cooked in a
savory sauce), steamed rice, pickles and dessert (slices of fresh
fruit).

The array of food, when placed on the table, was really quite
impressive, and more than enough for two people. In fact in my
enthusiasm at the ordering stage, I'd ordered extra portions of
both sashimi and tempura, and wasn't able to finish the latter!

Have you ever wondered why such a high proportion of the
Japanese population lives to such a ripe old age? Part of the
reason is their healthy diet, which includes raw fish. It may
seem strange or even repulsive, if you have never tried it
before, but it is one of the best ways of eating fish (as there
is no grease, which most cooking processes would add, and the
taste of the fish really comes through). However, the fish must
be of the highest quality, and really fresh. At Kikugawa, the
sashimi passed with flying colors on both counts.

Like all good Japanese restaurants, Kikugawa buys its fish
daily, so you should aim to arrive early in the evening to avoid
the disappointment of their having run out of fish for sashimi or
sushi (raw fish on vinegared rice).

Price points: The meal above, including countless fill-ups of
hot Japanese tea and an orange juice came to only Rp 175,000,
including 10 percent tax -- incredible! I was expecting the bill
to be at least Rp 100,000 more, and had we been eating at one of
those glitzy places I mentioned above, the bill could easily have
been on the other side of Rp 350,000. I'm sure part of the reason
why Kikugawa can keep its prices so reasonable is because it
offers mainly set meals rather than a la carte, but who cares?
The food tastes the same anyway! Its overheads may be much lower
too, as it does not have the crippling rent that a restaurant in
an office skyscraper might have to pay.

Minus points: The only thing I could think of was that it is a
little difficult to find the restaurant on the first visit, but
it is so well-established in the area, anyone in the locality
would be able to direct you there quite easily.

Verdict: Kikugawa's winning combination of great Japanese
food, unbelievably good value and relaxing, laid-back atmosphere
must make it almost unique in the city. This is a place that you
must try, and I guarantee that you will be back for more! (Les
Coffier)