Kebayoran Lama Market a symbol of Betawi's glory days in trading

Kebayoran Lama Market a symbol of Betawi's glory days in trading

Arya Abhiseka, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Elvis Romadhona, 27, is a particularly interesting person. It's
not just because of the romantic sound of his name. The M-09
mikrolet (public minivan) driver, who serves the Tanah Abang-
Kebayoran Lama route, looks relaxed and happy working his early
morning shift.

"I don't know how my parents came up with the name. All I know
is that everyone calls me Elpis," says the longhaired fan of
dangdut, a popular music derived from Indian and Arabic music
beats, from behind the wheel of his minivan at 3:30 a.m.

Elvis -- or Elpis as he likes to call himself -- explains in a
unique and distinct accent that the morning shift is his
favorite.

"I don't carry regular passengers, therefore I can listen to
my music loud," he says raising his voice to be heard above the
high volume of the music coming from the tape deck. It is a song
from Alam, known as the prince of dangdut for bringing a new
sound to the music.

"Alam is such an inspiration. I bet he came from a poor family
like me and made it big in Jakarta," says Elvis. Obviously, he
does not know that Alam's sister, Vetty Vera, was already a big
dangdut star before he got his start.

Elvis' choice of words seem confirm the stereotypes of the
Betawi, or native Jakartan. He makes no attempt to hide this, as
if it is a statement of identity.

Elvis comes from a poor Betawi family that has lived in the
city for generations and used to make their living at the
Kebayoran Lama market.

"I am a Betawi asli, meaning true Betawi, born and raised in
Kebon Jeruk," he said.

The Kebayoran Lama market is a traditional market that used to
be run predominantly by people of Betawi descent, since many
Betawi lived in neighboring areas such as Rawa Belong, Kebon
Jeruk, Pal Merah, Cidodol and Kemanggisan.

As Jakarta became a metropolitan city, a great number of
Betawi people were marginalized.

Many were forced to sell their land to accommodate the large
number of migrants who came to Jakarta and increasingly took
control of the city. This same process also took place at the
Kebayoran Lama market.

"My family used to sell vegetables at the Kebayoran Lama
market and the market was run and dominated by the Betawi
communities from Pal Merah, Kebon Jeruk and Rawa Belong. It was
like a family-owned corporation," said Elvis.

However, now there are fewer Betawi at the market and more
Javanese and Sumatrans. As a result, the market is run
differently today.

"My grandfather used to own a piece of land in Kebon Jeruk,
where he grew vegetables and fruits. Many other Betawi people
used to do the same and they sold everything at the Kebayoran
Lama market. It was that straight and simple," said Elvis.

He regrets that most of the Betawi lost their land in the city
due to development.

"We lost our source of income, so many Betawi people shifted
careers," he said.

Today, many young Betawi people, like Elvis, work as ojek
(motorcycle taxi) drivers, security guards or simply preman
(hoodlums) at the market.

Maybe it was inevitable the migrants would come to predominate
the Kebayoran Lama market, as they have easier access to organic
produce and information from the areas they come from.

Elvis says his family continued to own a shop at the market
for a time. "But after my father died, my mother couldn't
organize it and now the shop is gone."

He decided to become a mikrolet driver, serving the Kebayoran
Lama route, because the area is familiar to him and offers an
emotional bond.

"I spent my childhood here, playing with other kids and
tending the family shop. I witnessed many developments in this
area, from when it was a simple traditional market along the
railroad tracks to the establishment of ruko (shop-houses),"
Elvis said.

He chooses to work early in the morning so he can transport
vegetable sellers, who buy their produce from the Kebayoran Lama
market and sell them in smaller markets.

"If I didn't do this, my income would be inadequate. There are
not other people out at this time in the morning."

He said most of the time he had to travel outside of his
mandatory route to get passengers. "I provide people with options
at a time in the day when transportation is scarce."

Three people get in his minivan, carrying cabbage. They tell
Elvis they are going to the Meruya Ilir market.

Elvis says he has no intention of going back to the market. "I
like driving better, but I'm only interested in this route, since
it reminds me of the old days."

"I don't want to sell vegetables at the market. It would not
get me anywhere. I want to be like Alam, become successful in
Jakarta, Betawi land, my homeland," Elvis said excitedly, while
singing along to Alam's song.