Kampong Ayer, Brunei's celebrated water world

Kampong Ayer, Brunei's celebrated water world

Jason Volker, Contributor, Bandar Seri Begawan

Brilliant equatorial sunshine mellows my mood as we cruise
beneath a bougainvillea-trimmed footbridge. The lulling lapping
of water on the boat's prow washes away my worldly cares. Cool
droplets of Brunei River sprinkle over my contented expression.

The starboard view includes a father and son fishing team
casting a net from their low-hulled timber vessel. To port I
observe boatmen delivering pious gentlemen in embroidered kufi
caps and flowing white robes to a riverside mosque. The incoming
ocean breeze carries with it the faint tink-tink-tink of
silversmiths at their craft.

Life in the world's oldest and largest water village continues
as it has for countless generations. The weather is balmy. The
tide gently ebbs and flows. The bustle of daily duties is soothed
by a palpable undercurrent of dignity and calm.

It seems wholly appropriate such a remarkable community should
have a long and distinguished past. With more than a millennium
of recorded history, Kampong Ayer exceeds all expectations.

Situated a short sail inland from the South China Sea, Kampong
Ayer is the original settlement of the seafaring Bruneian Malays.
Historians tell us these early explorers shouted Barunah!
Barunah! as they entered bountiful Brunei Bay.

This classical Malay expression is often succinctly translated
as This is it!. But a more thorough definition of Barunah would
be: This site is excellent for settlement, security, access and
provisions. Over time this joyous exclamation evolved to become
the word Brunei, the nation's present title.

These pioneering Bruneians were encouraged by an environment
of mangroves and mudflats to build houses of lumber, rattan and
nipa palm leaves, poised atop stilts driven deep into Brunei
River, the riverine lifeblood of this ancient community.

By the 16th century, in an age when spices were equal to gold
dust and honeycomb was a rare and precious commodity, Kampong
Ayer had grown into a booming commercial port welcoming maritime
traders from exotic India, China, Malacca and Java. This once
humble smattering of stilt homes in the middle of a river had
become the capital of the Sultanate of Brunei, a mighty empire
ruling all of Kalimantan and prized portions of the Philippines.

Such was Kampong Ayer's esteemed status in medieval Asia,
Magellan's round-the-world voyagers personally offered their
salutations in 1521. Among these first European emissaries was a
30-year-old nobleman from Vicenza named Antonio Pigafetta.

This brave young adventurer was responsible for chronicling
Magellan's epic journey, and it is from Pigafetta's diary that
the Western world learnt of this mysterious floating city of the
Orient.

Pigafetta lyrically described Kampong Ayer as the Venice of
the East.

He was wonder-struck by a cosmopolitan capital city that
stands entirely in salt water. Only the Sultan's palace and the
houses of his highest dignitaries were located on dry land; the
vast majority of 100,000 citizens resided above the river.

The Italian scribe also noted valuable items such as camphor,
cinnamon, diamonds and pearls were plentiful at port; and
although rowboats were staple transportation, it was possible to
wander throughout the city on a labyrinthine network of wooden
walkways.

Modern Kampong Ayer has preserved this aura of unexpected
discoveries.

Today 30,000 people thrive within its 42 distinct communities
-- that's half the population of the capital Bandar Seri Begawan,
and one-tenth the population of all of Brunei.

Thirty-six kilometers of pedestrian bridges still connect more
than 3000 dwellings, as well as linking schools, markets, clinics
and mosques.

Although some venerable houses are over a century old, all
have electricity, town water and gas supplies, many have Internet
access.

While technology has advanced life in the village, I'm sure
Signore Pigafetta would be delighted to learn that his beloved
"Venice of the East" has outwardly changed little in the past 500
years. In fact, the greatest changes have been glorious
additions.

Coasting through maze-like water alleys with my boat driver,
Suharli, a jovial lifelong resident of Kampong Ayer, I admiringly
gaze upon the shimmering gilded dome and heaven-bound minaret of
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, a relatively recent flourish on the
picturesque capital skyline.

Further upstream we glide by the regal sweeping roofs and twin
golden cupolas of Nurul Iman Palace, the stately abode of His
Majesty Sultan Bolkiah and the largest residential palace in the
world. Other contemporary riverbank landmarks include the Arts
and Handicraft Center, the Malay Technology Museum and the Brunei
National Museum.

Kampong Ayer is many things to many people. Some knowingly
call it the historical core of Brunei. Others declare it the
nation's foremost tourist destination. While to thousands of
fortunate souls it is simply, profoundly, home.

As I skim along the idly rolling waters of the Brunei River
accompanied by Suharli's frequent peals of easy laughter, as I
etch upon my memory this idyllic summer morning, I compose my own
impressions of Brunei's celebrated water world...

Kampong Ayer reminds us why travel can be a perfect pleasure.

If you go:

Where: Kampong Ayer is located in the heart of the Bruneian
capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. Brunei is bordered to the north by
the South China Sea and on all other sides by the Malaysian state
of Sarawak.

Getting there: Royal Brunei Airlines (phone 21-521 1842, e-
mail
onlinefeedback@rba.com.bn, www.bruneiair.com) has regular flights
from Jakarta to Bandar Seri Begawan.

When to go: Brunei's equatorial climate remains fairly
constant throughout the year -- it's always warm and humid.

Lodging: Budget accommodation can be found at the Brunei Youth
Center (aka Pusat Belia, on Sungai Kianggeh Rd, phone 673-2-229
423) where air-conditioned dorm rooms cost B$10 a night.

If you're after a little more luxury try the Brunei Hotel (95
Pemancha Rd, phone 673-2-242 372, fax 673-2-226 196) where
comfortable rooms start at B$114 a night.

Dining: Tasty and affordable meals can be found at the Padian
Food Court in the Yayasan SHHB shopping complex in downtown
Bandar Seri Begawan. For cheap eats after dark try the night
market in front of the Sheraton Hotel on Jl. Tasek Lama.

Port View Seafood Restaurant (across the road from Yayasan
shopping complex) offers big servings and great views of Kampong
Ayer.

Getting around: The best way to take in the sights and sounds
of Kampong Ayer is by water taxi. Head to the pier across the
road from the Yayasan shopping complex and flag down a boatman.
Tours should cost about B$15 an hour.

Currency: One Bruneian dollar is equal to Rp 5,072.

Reading: Lonely Planet Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei is highly
recommended. On the Internet check out www.brunei.gov.bn and
www.brunet.bn

More information: Embassy of Brunei Darussalam (Suite 1901,
Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 28, Jakarta 10210, phone 21-574 1437, fax
21-574 1463).

In Bandar Seri Begawan visit the new Tourist Information
Center by the post office on Elizabeth Dua Rd (e-mail
bruneitourism@brunet.bn).