Kampong Ayer, Brunei's celebrated water world
Jason Volker, Contributor, Bandar Seri Begawan
Brilliant equatorial sunshine mellows my mood as we cruise beneath a bougainvillea-trimmed footbridge. The lulling lapping of water on the boat's prow washes away my worldly cares. Cool droplets of Brunei River sprinkle over my contented expression.
The starboard view includes a father and son fishing team casting a net from their low-hulled timber vessel. To port I observe boatmen delivering pious gentlemen in embroidered kufi caps and flowing white robes to a riverside mosque. The incoming ocean breeze carries with it the faint tink-tink-tink of silversmiths at their craft.
Life in the world's oldest and largest water village continues as it has for countless generations. The weather is balmy. The tide gently ebbs and flows. The bustle of daily duties is soothed by a palpable undercurrent of dignity and calm.
It seems wholly appropriate such a remarkable community should have a long and distinguished past. With more than a millennium of recorded history, Kampong Ayer exceeds all expectations.
Situated a short sail inland from the South China Sea, Kampong Ayer is the original settlement of the seafaring Bruneian Malays. Historians tell us these early explorers shouted Barunah! Barunah! as they entered bountiful Brunei Bay.
This classical Malay expression is often succinctly translated as This is it!. But a more thorough definition of Barunah would be: This site is excellent for settlement, security, access and provisions. Over time this joyous exclamation evolved to become the word Brunei, the nation's present title.
These pioneering Bruneians were encouraged by an environment of mangroves and mudflats to build houses of lumber, rattan and nipa palm leaves, poised atop stilts driven deep into Brunei River, the riverine lifeblood of this ancient community.
By the 16th century, in an age when spices were equal to gold dust and honeycomb was a rare and precious commodity, Kampong Ayer had grown into a booming commercial port welcoming maritime traders from exotic India, China, Malacca and Java. This once humble smattering of stilt homes in the middle of a river had become the capital of the Sultanate of Brunei, a mighty empire ruling all of Kalimantan and prized portions of the Philippines.
Such was Kampong Ayer's esteemed status in medieval Asia, Magellan's round-the-world voyagers personally offered their salutations in 1521. Among these first European emissaries was a 30-year-old nobleman from Vicenza named Antonio Pigafetta.
This brave young adventurer was responsible for chronicling Magellan's epic journey, and it is from Pigafetta's diary that the Western world learnt of this mysterious floating city of the Orient.
Pigafetta lyrically described Kampong Ayer as the Venice of the East.
He was wonder-struck by a cosmopolitan capital city that stands entirely in salt water. Only the Sultan's palace and the houses of his highest dignitaries were located on dry land; the vast majority of 100,000 citizens resided above the river.
The Italian scribe also noted valuable items such as camphor, cinnamon, diamonds and pearls were plentiful at port; and although rowboats were staple transportation, it was possible to wander throughout the city on a labyrinthine network of wooden walkways.
Modern Kampong Ayer has preserved this aura of unexpected discoveries.
Today 30,000 people thrive within its 42 distinct communities -- that's half the population of the capital Bandar Seri Begawan, and one-tenth the population of all of Brunei.
Thirty-six kilometers of pedestrian bridges still connect more than 3000 dwellings, as well as linking schools, markets, clinics and mosques.
Although some venerable houses are over a century old, all have electricity, town water and gas supplies, many have Internet access.
While technology has advanced life in the village, I'm sure Signore Pigafetta would be delighted to learn that his beloved "Venice of the East" has outwardly changed little in the past 500 years. In fact, the greatest changes have been glorious additions.
Coasting through maze-like water alleys with my boat driver, Suharli, a jovial lifelong resident of Kampong Ayer, I admiringly gaze upon the shimmering gilded dome and heaven-bound minaret of Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, a relatively recent flourish on the picturesque capital skyline.
Further upstream we glide by the regal sweeping roofs and twin golden cupolas of Nurul Iman Palace, the stately abode of His Majesty Sultan Bolkiah and the largest residential palace in the world. Other contemporary riverbank landmarks include the Arts and Handicraft Center, the Malay Technology Museum and the Brunei National Museum.
Kampong Ayer is many things to many people. Some knowingly call it the historical core of Brunei. Others declare it the nation's foremost tourist destination. While to thousands of fortunate souls it is simply, profoundly, home.
As I skim along the idly rolling waters of the Brunei River accompanied by Suharli's frequent peals of easy laughter, as I etch upon my memory this idyllic summer morning, I compose my own impressions of Brunei's celebrated water world...
Kampong Ayer reminds us why travel can be a perfect pleasure.
If you go:
Where: Kampong Ayer is located in the heart of the Bruneian capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. Brunei is bordered to the north by the South China Sea and on all other sides by the Malaysian state of Sarawak.
Getting there: Royal Brunei Airlines (phone 21-521 1842, e- mail onlinefeedback@rba.com.bn, www.bruneiair.com) has regular flights from Jakarta to Bandar Seri Begawan.
When to go: Brunei's equatorial climate remains fairly constant throughout the year -- it's always warm and humid.
Lodging: Budget accommodation can be found at the Brunei Youth Center (aka Pusat Belia, on Sungai Kianggeh Rd, phone 673-2-229 423) where air-conditioned dorm rooms cost B$10 a night.
If you're after a little more luxury try the Brunei Hotel (95 Pemancha Rd, phone 673-2-242 372, fax 673-2-226 196) where comfortable rooms start at B$114 a night.
Dining: Tasty and affordable meals can be found at the Padian Food Court in the Yayasan SHHB shopping complex in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan. For cheap eats after dark try the night market in front of the Sheraton Hotel on Jl. Tasek Lama.
Port View Seafood Restaurant (across the road from Yayasan shopping complex) offers big servings and great views of Kampong Ayer.
Getting around: The best way to take in the sights and sounds of Kampong Ayer is by water taxi. Head to the pier across the road from the Yayasan shopping complex and flag down a boatman. Tours should cost about B$15 an hour.
Currency: One Bruneian dollar is equal to Rp 5,072.
Reading: Lonely Planet Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei is highly recommended. On the Internet check out www.brunei.gov.bn and www.brunet.bn
More information: Embassy of Brunei Darussalam (Suite 1901, Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 28, Jakarta 10210, phone 21-574 1437, fax 21-574 1463).
In Bandar Seri Begawan visit the new Tourist Information Center by the post office on Elizabeth Dua Rd (e-mail bruneitourism@brunet.bn).