Kajang tribespeople love their isolated world

By Arifuddin Saeni

BULUKUMBA, South Sulawesi (JP): The Kajang tribespeople in Bulukumba may truly rank among the few humans who have escaped the reaches of globalization.

According to official statistics, the Kajang number about 1,900 people belonging to 193 families. They live on 700 hectares in a remote area, about 200 kilometers south of the provincial capital Ujungpandang.

The egalitarian tribe has not shown an interest in exposing itself to the outside world, clinging to its traditional way of life and customs.

Mother Nature is everything. A tribe member caught violating their tacit yet strict law on nature conservation is liable to customary prosecution.

Black dominates their attire, in the passapu (headdress), shirt, sarong and pants. In their traditional beliefs, black symbolizes patience, modesty and closeness to God.

Living in isolation does not mean a complete rejection of change. They have learned weaving and know the technology to build stilt houses.

But they flatly refuse to change their way of life.

"They (outsiders) mean to impose their will on us (to change our way of life). What is the point of all this if the bottom line is to destroy nature?" says Puto Jojo, the Ammatoa or tribal chief.

The Kajang's commitment to preserving nature is unwavering and their natural habitat remains intact.

But they do not completely refuse contact with outsiders. They will gladly welcome visitors as long as they follow their customs, such as wearing all-black attire. It is a rule for all, including government bigwigs from Jakarta or Ujungpandang. They are not permitted to enter the tribal chief's house. All guests are entertained at the community hall and met by the Ammatoa's aide who also acts as his spokesman.

The Kajang's simplicity is evident in their houses. The entire building, its furniture and household appliances are made of natural materials; no "modern" equipment or belongings can be found.

All 193 houses in the community are of exactly the same three- room model, built on same size plots of land and neatly arranged facing west.

The first room is located to the left of the main door. The kitchen is located next to the terrace. Kitchen utensils are made of forest products; drinking vessels are carved from bamboo and plates are made of coconut shell. A small creek located at the entrance to the village is the only source of water for the community.

Their egalitarian attitudes are evident from the location of their kitchen near the main door. The living room lies between the terrace and the bedroom.

Yet, all the signs of egalitarianism and communal solidarity blur the fact that the community is home to three castes.

The first is the Tu kintarang, or aristocratic caste. It includes leaders, including the Ammatoa. Remarkably, members of the caste are the most modest in the way they dress and the model of their houses.

The second caste is called Tu Samara, or commoners. The Ammatoa's aides usually belong to this caste. The most humble members of the community are the Ata, who are responsible for menial tasks, such as tending to livestock and fending off enemies.

The Ammatoa, through his aides, decides the punishment to be meted out to violators of customary laws, such as "illegally" cutting trees, killing animals or stealing honey.

The most severe punishment for the offenses is a Rp 800,000 (US$123) fine plus relinquishing the loot.

Sexual indiscretions, such as a man flirting with a woman who is not his wife, also are punishable. A man may be required to marry the woman he "harassed" as a form of punishment. He might be fined or excommunicated if he refuses the punishment.

The harsh mandatory punishments have kept crime to a bare minimum in the community.

The Ammatoa has his own way of punishing accused offenders, known as Tunu Panroli. He will fire a steel crossbar until it turns red. The alleged offender has the chance to prove himself innocent by holding the burning steel. If it hurts, the offender is considered guilty.

Puto Jojo is the 19th Ammatoa, ascending the throne 10 years ago. He was elected chief in a mystical ritual called Apparuntu Mappanganro three years after his predecessor died.

There are two versions concerning the mystical process of electing an Ammatoa. First, those who believe they are spiritually "clean" set out to meditate in the forest to receive a divine blessing. A person who receives light from the sky or a pure white wild rooster will be elected Ammatoa.

The second version says the Ammatoa is the person whose body is enveloped in the incense burned in the Apparuntu Mappanganro ceremony.

Curiously, the chosen person develops paralysis as soon as he assumes the title of Ammatoa. Puto Jojo also is paralyzed and so were his predecessors in living memory.