Kajang tribespeople love their isolated world

Kajang tribespeople love their isolated world

By Arifuddin Saeni

BULUKUMBA, South Sulawesi (JP): The Kajang tribespeople in
Bulukumba may truly rank among the few humans who have escaped
the reaches of globalization.

According to official statistics, the Kajang number about
1,900 people belonging to 193 families. They live on 700 hectares
in a remote area, about 200 kilometers south of the provincial
capital Ujungpandang.

The egalitarian tribe has not shown an interest in exposing
itself to the outside world, clinging to its traditional way of
life and customs.

Mother Nature is everything. A tribe member caught violating
their tacit yet strict law on nature conservation is liable to
customary prosecution.

Black dominates their attire, in the passapu (headdress),
shirt, sarong and pants. In their traditional beliefs, black
symbolizes patience, modesty and closeness to God.

Living in isolation does not mean a complete rejection of
change. They have learned weaving and know the technology to
build stilt houses.

But they flatly refuse to change their way of life.

"They (outsiders) mean to impose their will on us (to change
our way of life). What is the point of all this if the bottom
line is to destroy nature?" says Puto Jojo, the Ammatoa or tribal
chief.

The Kajang's commitment to preserving nature is unwavering and
their natural habitat remains intact.

But they do not completely refuse contact with outsiders. They
will gladly welcome visitors as long as they follow their
customs, such as wearing all-black attire. It is a rule for all,
including government bigwigs from Jakarta or Ujungpandang. They
are not permitted to enter the tribal chief's house. All guests
are entertained at the community hall and met by the Ammatoa's
aide who also acts as his spokesman.

The Kajang's simplicity is evident in their houses. The entire
building, its furniture and household appliances are made of
natural materials; no "modern" equipment or belongings can be
found.

All 193 houses in the community are of exactly the same three-
room model, built on same size plots of land and neatly arranged
facing west.

The first room is located to the left of the main door. The
kitchen is located next to the terrace. Kitchen utensils are made
of forest products; drinking vessels are carved from bamboo and
plates are made of coconut shell. A small creek located at the
entrance to the village is the only source of water for the
community.

Their egalitarian attitudes are evident from the location of
their kitchen near the main door. The living room lies between
the terrace and the bedroom.

Yet, all the signs of egalitarianism and communal solidarity
blur the fact that the community is home to three castes.

The first is the Tu kintarang, or aristocratic caste. It
includes leaders, including the Ammatoa. Remarkably, members of
the caste are the most modest in the way they dress and the model
of their houses.

The second caste is called Tu Samara, or commoners. The
Ammatoa's aides usually belong to this caste. The most humble
members of the community are the Ata, who are responsible for
menial tasks, such as tending to livestock and fending off
enemies.

The Ammatoa, through his aides, decides the punishment to be
meted out to violators of customary laws, such as "illegally"
cutting trees, killing animals or stealing honey.

The most severe punishment for the offenses is a Rp 800,000
(US$123) fine plus relinquishing the loot.

Sexual indiscretions, such as a man flirting with a woman who
is not his wife, also are punishable. A man may be required to
marry the woman he "harassed" as a form of punishment. He might
be fined or excommunicated if he refuses the punishment.

The harsh mandatory punishments have kept crime to a bare
minimum in the community.

The Ammatoa has his own way of punishing accused offenders,
known as Tunu Panroli. He will fire a steel crossbar until it
turns red. The alleged offender has the chance to prove himself
innocent by holding the burning steel. If it hurts, the offender
is considered guilty.

Puto Jojo is the 19th Ammatoa, ascending the throne 10 years
ago. He was elected chief in a mystical ritual called Apparuntu
Mappanganro three years after his predecessor died.

There are two versions concerning the mystical process of
electing an Ammatoa. First, those who believe they are
spiritually "clean" set out to meditate in the forest to receive
a divine blessing. A person who receives light from the sky or a
pure white wild rooster will be elected Ammatoa.

The second version says the Ammatoa is the person whose body
is enveloped in the incense burned in the Apparuntu Mappanganro
ceremony.

Curiously, the chosen person develops paralysis as soon as he
assumes the title of Ammatoa. Puto Jojo also is paralyzed and so
were his predecessors in living memory.