Kafe Granita: A home away from home
Wedged between the countless number of restaurants that dot Jalan Kemang Raya, Kafe Granita may not offer a theme, a distinctive feature, or anything that makes the concept of entertainment the formidable industry it is today.
But it has a certain earnestness and wholesomeness about it, caring only to fulfill the foremost objective of most cafes worldwide -- a relaxed ambience. One of the lovely things about it is that it looks exactly like what it is -- a cafe.
From outside, you can easily catch a glimpse of its interior -- not too much, but just enough to draw you in. You get a glimpse of waiters tending tables, couples gazing into each other's eyes over a cup of coffee, an attractive cake display, and a pleasant atmosphere that you either lack or have an abundance of at home. At night, it is illuminated well, in a way that promises you warmth and comfort. It is a place that caters to haste as well as idleness, for quick lunches as well as protracted chats.
And certainly, the cafe exudes an intimate but airy atmosphere, with light, beige tones, big glass windows, a mix of wood, tile, and limestone, built-in shelves filled with country- style crockery and decorative memorabilia, balloon glass lampposts emitting warm lighting, yellow awnings, a generously sized bar chock-full with liquor, and a big, friendly chalkboard on which the specialities of the day are written in colorful handwriting.
The soothing sound of light jazz adds a peaceful resonance, and is easily the key to the cafe's casual appeal. You might as well be Sally and Harry, discussing pretty much anything, from workplace hazards to the deep meaning of life. Perhaps you'll even go for seconds without noticing the time, and you won't realize it until the bill comes.
The staff is generally courteous and well-meaning, but the trainees still have a problem with basic skills: they served the main course before we finished our appetizer and gave us our desserts without clearing the table.
The menu, however, is attractive enough to render such matters insignificant. Though not blazingly original, it's thoughtful. Almost all the dishes have a broad appeal. Guaranteed to whet your appetite are the minestrone and the sweet corn soup. Although the base seems to have come from a packet, the overall taste is good. The minestrone has a generous serving of fresh vegetables and is flavored with cream and tabasco sauce, giving it a sweet, spicy kick. The corn soup is a refreshingly smooth sans broth, the heavy creaminess of most versions.
A few carefully selected vegetarian dishes -- of which the Caesar salad and the pasta and tuna salad seem to be the most popular choices -- bode well for the cholesterol conscious. Finger food aficionados can nibble on fried calamari, onion rings and honeyed chicken wings. Bread lovers can choose from a wide variety of sandwiches, including the tuna sandwich and the chicken salad sandwich.
The main course typically varies from standard Asian favorites, such as tom yam kung soup, soto ayam, and chicken teriyaki, to Western regulars such as grilled beef sirloin, and tenderloin with black peppercorn or mushroom sauce, all reasonably priced below Rp 20,000.
Like most cafes, Cafe Granita is big on pasta. Most of the traditional Italian sauces are represented -- including alfredo, marinara, vongole, matriciana, carbonara, and bolognaise. The garlic cream penne is wonderfully piquant, with just the right amount of garlic and cream. You can have it with grilled chicken for Rp 9,500 or with shrimp for Rp 12,500.
Less refined but equally recommended is the fusilli primavera, a refreshing tomato-based vegetarian choice. My companion -- a lovely, insightful lady with a deep appreciation for the finer things in life -- found it light and "pleasantly tasty", although a bit on the sweet side. Meeting standard expectations, the fusilli was al dente and the vegetables fresh and crunchy.
Desserts include standard favorites such as Italian tiramisu, Dutch apple strudel, chocolate brownie sundae, and cheesecake. My companion enjoyed her apple strudel, although she said a crispier crust would have made it tastier. The tiramisu didn't fare too well. I found it rubbery and bland.
In addition to a vast array of freshly brewed gourmet Arabica coffee, the cafe offers a wide selection of delicious speciality coffees topped with big gobs of cream. The Kahlua cappuccino or the Irish cream cappuccino with Bailey's will pose little threat to the sobriety of drivers, so please reserve some space for them. They're heavenly. If you prefer iced coffee, the Granita frappucino, a frothy, bittersweet iced cappuccino with a fragrant, nutty flavor, is perhaps the best tongue-pleaser of them all.
A full course for two, including speciality coffees, amounts to Rp 70,000.
Nothing remarkable, nothing innovative, nothing worth raving about, but you'll come back, not once, not twice, but a few times more. It's that kind of place.
-- Epicurus