Sat, 23 Apr 1994

JP/ 7/hongkong

Stanley fishing village, a break from regular shopping

By Paul Walsh [10 pts optima bold]

BOGOR (JP): As the deadline year of 1997 quickly approaches for Hong Kong, many travelers seem intent on visiting this unique corner of the world before the territory is handed back to China.

Hong Kong, the Fragrant Harbor as the name translates, is a vibrant mix of old and new, where the abacus is almost as popular as the pocket calculator and 21st century architecture looks down upon the temples of ages past.

Away from the neon overload of bright lights in Nathan Road and the wall to wall bargain hunters around the Canton Road area, is the one time fishing village of Stanley.

Located on the more serene south end of Hong Kong island, Stanley offers arts, curios and clothing in a market atmosphere that is a welcome relief from the normal mode of shopping generally experienced in Hong Kong.

Coming from the Kowloon area, the best form of transport is, of course, the world famous Star Ferry, which runs a continual service back and forth across the harbor. The eight-minute trip is a mere $HK 1.50 (US 20 cents).

Public transport to Stanley is available in air conditioned buses from outside the ferry terminal, however seats are generally at a premium. The journey on Bus no. 260 takes about 40 minutes and passes amazing sights on the mountainous island.

One is the Happy Valley Race course - a sporting complex that takes up as little space as possible yet remains an excellent venue.

I am sure the number of unofficial spectators in the surrounding high rise apartment buildings that shadow the facility almost equals those attending the course proper.

Two very impressive bays are passed on the journey across the island. Deep Water Bay and Repulse Bay are approached from a height that makes it possible to capture the true beauty of the golden sands and deep blue water.

At this time you need full confidence in the man at the wheel as he winds his way down the very narrow roads that meander over the sides of the mountains and contain many blind corners.

Stanley itself was once a military station, however nowadays it is generally considered to be a residential area, that has maintained a quaint, seaside atmosphere.

No fast food

The market place is made up of a maze of stalls offering silk garments to brass chimes and scrolls. Many stalls also offer to write your name in Chinese Rainbow Picture Writing incorporated into a traditional scene, which can be transposed onto T-shirts or plaques.

One of the refreshing things about the Stanley area is that there is a distinct lack of fast food houses and most of the delicacies are traditional Chinese fare cooked in the enormous woks in the food tents.

The enticing aromas are guaranteed to tempt anyone within a radius of 500 meters who is the slightest bit "peckish."

Sampling at least a small portion of true Chinese cooking also provides a break in shopping and an opportunity to re-count your money, cross off a few more items from your list...then start all over again!

When you are all "shopped out" it is advisable to catch a taxi back to the ferry, to ensure your bootie makes it back safely. The fare from Stanley to the ferry is around $HK72 ($9.6), compared with $HK 9 on the bus - however for convenience it's well worth it!

So if you are sitting in your hotel room in Kowloon with one day left and ten presents to buy, there are two things you can do. Either you throw your list into the bin and head for the pool, or enjoy the experience of shopping at Stanley.

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