Josch Cafe: Everything a good boozer needs ... except people

I've always had a soft spot, call it a foible if you like, for that wonderfully joyous architectural extravaganza that goes by the name of Wisma Dharmala Sakti, which you'll find spreading a touch of lightness and brightness half way down Jl. Sudirman.

With its soaring lines, skewed angles and battleship-like projections and extrusions, it really is a breath of fresh air in a city of architectural mediocrity, in my opinion at any rate -- although all the white tiles do tend to make one think there has to be a swimming pool lurking around somewhere.

The reason I'm waxing so lyrically about this particular edifice is because ever since last June it has been playing host to Josch Cafe -- the subject of this week's dissection -- a venue which, in my humble opinion, has all it takes to emerge as one of Jakarta's best little Thai pubs-cum-restos.

All it takes apart from one thing -- a woeful lack of punters. Unfortunately, like so many other places I have dropped in on in midweek of late, Josch was as empty as Karet Bivak cemetery at midnight on the evening of our visit.

I mean, I am not really a demanding sort, but I do like to feel I am not entirely alone in this universe when indulging in my favorite hobby. But lonesome and forlorn was exactly how I felt that Thursday evening at 10 p.m. -- I really was beginning to develop a serious sense of empathy for Coleridge's Ancient Mariner and his solitary, cursed voyage across the seven seas.

Even the staff in the kitchen, which you have to pass on the way to the restroom, seemed to be infected by the sense of desolation, all cuddled up sleeping in the corner like a litter of kittens.

Which is a crying shame, really, for Josch Cafe is blessed with all of the ingredients necessary to cook up a great little entertainment spot.

It's centrally located on Sudirman in one of that showpiece boulevard's best-known buildings. It's comfortably and attractively furnished -- dark-stained timber fittings throughout, and the sort of dimly lit, heavy timber bar that greats you like a long-lost lover, and is just as hard to pull yourself away from.

They have even got a secluded, romantic balcony upstairs -- well, I'm pretty sure it would be romantic if there were any people -- looking down over the empty stage far below.

It is, perhaps, on this stage that we should focus our investigations into the root cause of the vacuity afflicting Josch Cafe on that particular Thursday night.

It would appear that the powers that be in Josch originally planned to have regular live music to liven up the joint and bring in the after-office hours punters. However, due to a slow start, they quickly decided to give up the ghost on the music front.

With the result that you are now only likely to get anything in the way of animation up on that lonely stage -- still decked out with a forsaken drum kit and abandoned mikes -- if a party of 20 or more puts in a reservation, which is pretty unlikely to happen the way things are going.

This all seems rather short-sighted to me, and I would seriously suggest to folks at Josch that they crank up the music again, at the very least on weekends, if they want to continue with a roof over their heads.

The lack of punters in the evening is even more lamentable when one considers the quality of the food dished up (I normally find myself taking refuge in the nosh when faced with a lack of fellow gluggers to chat with).

Following a gluttonous orgy with the plump and nubile spring rolls (Rp 45,000), followed by a blatantly sinful escapade with the delightful duck in honey sauce (Rp 45,000), I found myself settling back satiated in my bar stool, at ease with the world despite my lack of companions.

A couple of quick beers then brought me up to closing time, a woefully early 11 p.m., when I finally, and not entirely regretfully, called it a night and toddled off home a few kilos the heavier.

Apart from great food, Josch Cafe also happens to have one of best selections of foreign beers I've seen in Jakarta, a city that's not so well-known for it's choice of brews.

There's Carlsberg (Denmark), Heineken (Holland), Foster's and Victoria Bitter (Australia), Tsing Tao (China), San Miguel (Philippines), Lone Star (Malaysia), Singha (Thailand), Asahi and Kirin (Japan), as well as beers from the U.S., Mexico and Singapore -- all priced at Rp 30,000.

As for the harder stuff, house pourings are Rp 35,000 a shot while premium spirits are going for Rp 40,000.

Happy hour is from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m., when 25 percent is knocked off all beverages.

As things stand at the moment, it seems that Josch Cafe is concentrating solely on the lunchtime trade -- which, I was assured, is booming -- while basically giving up the evening trade as a bad job. This is a real pity, for I like this little boozer. So come on, fellas, get some music on, give us a bigger cut for happy hour, and extend your opening hours a tad.

The result could well come as a pleasant surprise!

Josch, Wisma Dharmala Sakti, Ground Floor, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 32, Jakarta 10220 (tel: 251-2257). Opening hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-12 midnight Fri. and Sat. Closed Sundays. All prices quoted above exclusive of 10 percent tax and 7 percent service. All major credit cards accepted.

-- Bill Blade