Thu, 17 Jan 2002

Jembrana, the wild west of Bali

================ Pariama Hutasoit Contributor Jembrana, Bali ----------------

Jembrana regency on the western tip of Bali might not be a popular tourist spot but it does offer visitors the island's most unspoiled scenery.

Deriving its name from two words, jimbar wana, which literally means great forest, Jembrana is famous for its wild areas, something that lures adventurous visitors. No traffic jams, noisy airports or discotheques here, just an expanse of forested landscape.

Located around 120 kilometers west of Denpasar, Jembrana is actually the first entry point connecting Java and Bali as well as Bali and the island of Madura. It boasts Gilimanuk harbor, which provides ferry services to Java through Ketapang harbor in Banyuwangi, East Java.

The regency has four districts: Negara (the regency's capital), Melaya, Mendoyo and Pekutatan. It borders Buleleng regency in the north, Tabanan in the south and the Bali strait in the west.

Regent I Gde Winasa says that, like other regencies in Bali, Jembrana is planning to develop its tourism potential.

"We won't turn into places like Kuta, Sanur and others, but we will offer our entire natural and cultural assets here."

Winasa said Jembrana would be developed for "supporting tourism" to back up Bali's tourism industry.

"This means that Jembrana would be maintained as it is now, to preserve its wilderness, its agriculture, fisheries and forests," the regent said.

Despite its lack of international-standard tourist facilities like an airport, star-rated hotels, cafes and restaurants, Jembrana has abundant attractions.

The Bali Barat National park is home to the rare Bali starling (Leucopsar rotschildi), wild buffalo (Bos javanicus) and an extensive number of unique species of flora and fauna.

The regency also boasts pristine beaches, including Medewi (around 15 kilometers from Negara), Candikusuma, Baluk Rening and Delod Berawah.

Jembrana's archaeological museum near Gilimanuk houses evidence of Bali's earliest human settlement and its earliest tools, objects and earthenware.

Other places of interest include Pura Rambut Siwi and Pura Gede Purancak, the regency's major temples.

The tomb of Prince Jayaprana in Teluk (Gulf) Terima is another interesting site to visit. Based on stories and legends, Jayaprana was a handsome and kind man who was married to the lovely Layonsari. As an orphan, Jayaprana was raised by the King of Kalianget. But the King, who was mesmerized by the beauty of his "daughter-in-law", sent Jayaprana away. Jayaprana was killed by the king's chief minister while the king tried to seduce Layonsari, begging her to marry him. Furious but helpless, Layonsari committed suicide.

The regency is also a melting pot for various ethnic and religious groups. The regency's 262,255 people consist of Balinese Hindus (79 percent), Christians and Catholics (3 percent), Muslims (18.19 percent) and Buddhists (0.14 percent).

Christian and Catholic residents are mostly converted Balinese who live in two villages, Palasari (Catholic) and Blimbingsari (Protestant). Muslim residents, who mostly come from Makassar, South Sulawesi, live in Loloan village, near Negara.

Jembrana is home to thousands of Madurese people who brought with them the tradition of the mekepung bull race. Every harvest time, people in Jembrana celebrate by holding mekepung, now the regency's cultural trademark.

Panudiana Kuhn from the Balinese chapter of the Chamber of Commerce said that, despite its rich natural and cultural resources, Jembrana was inaccessible for most visitors. Jembrana, he said, did not yet have adequate facilities to attract visitors. "The regency is quite far from Denpasar," he said. Lack of promotion is another problem.

Eddy Sunyoto from the Balinese chapter of the Indonesian Travel Agencies' Association did not agree. "Jembrana doesn't have to be changed. It should not add any attractions either," he said, adding that it was better for Jembrana to promote its wilderness, agricultural and fishery potential.

"Don't change all of Bali into places like Kuta, Nusa Dua and Sanur."