Javanese traditional survives in Bali

Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, Contributor, Gilimanuk, West Bali

It was a beautiful day and a large plastic tent was erected on the Gilimanuk beach, some 130 kilometers west of Denpasar.

Folded stainless steel chairs and wooden tables were lined up under the shady canopy, in anticipation of the senior government officials and religious leaders who would soon arrive at the beach.

Thousands of villagers already crowded the shoreline, eagerly waiting for the Petik Laut ceremony to begin. Their happy chatter was complemented by the lively sound of a gamelan orchestra, with echoes of both Javanese and Arabic rhythms.

In Bali the gamelan is a popular instrument and if you don't play it, you surely listen to it. Indeed many are skilled in elaborate dances to accompany the gamelan, and if the Javanese/Arabic sound was a little unusual for Bali, it was enticing all the same.

Gilimanuk fishing village is reminiscent of coastal areas in Central and East Java. The village has a population of around 1,200. Most of the villagers are fishermen, who originally came from Java and have resided in the village since the l950s.

Like those of any other fishing village in Bali, Gilimanuk residents come from multi-ethnic seafaring communities, from the East Java regencies of Banyuwangi and Tuban, Madura island and from South Sulawesi. Few native Balinese are fishermen.

But the villagers say that moving to the predominantly Hindu island has not altered their adherence to tradition. They still retain their religion (Islam), and cultural heritage. Petik Laut is but one of their surviving traditions.

Petik Laut is an annual "thanksgiving ceremony," to praise God for the good fortune of the fishermen throughout the year. It is also meant to ward off bad luck while they are at sea.

The ceremony takes place during the month of Muharram according to Islamic Hijriah calendar, or Suro according to the Javanese lunar calendar.

This year's ceremony took place in June, attracting both local and foreign visitors. The ceremony involved the entire Gilimanuk community.

Days before the ceremony, women busily prepared offerings while the men made the container to carry the gifts out to sea.

The vessel-shaped container is made of young coconut leaves decorated with colorful-paper flags and adorned with a large variety of paper ornaments.

Offerings to God and to the mythical goddess of the South Sea, Nyi Roro Kidul, consist of a live goat, a duck, a pigeon, and headless cow. As well as, delicious and colorful snacks made of sticky rice and green beans, abundant fruits and vegetables, and traditional spices.

Amid the scorching heat, the ceremony was opened by a revered ulema who performed special prayers in two languages, the refined Javanese language and the Arabic language.

Then, a number of fishermen carried the container into the sea and set it to "sail." It was escorted by 16 fishing boats and then, left to the to the deep blue realm of Nyi Roro Kidul.

The sound of East Javanese music and also high-pitched dangdut (a Malay/Indonesian music genre), resonated throughout the village during the ceremony.

The villagers were cheerful believing that this year God would accept their offerings and bestow them with prosperity in the coming months.

As the 16 boats returned, people eagerly watched the container sink. This was seen as a sign that God had accepted the offerings.

The month of Muharram is sacred in the Islamic calendar. In the Koran, Almighty God helped his prophets defeat their enemies and protect them from calamity in this month.

Syamsuri, 42, a fishermen, said that during Muharram God helps good people and punishes the bad.

"Prophets such as Moses and Yonas were rescued from the sea. Yonas was saved from the belly of the whale, while Moses and his followers were rescued from Pharaoh's soldiers when God divided the sea," Syamsuri said.

Ceremonies similar to Petik Laut and dedicated to Nyi Roro Kidul are also practiced in a number of coastal villages in Java.

In Gilimanuk, the fishermen failed to perform the annual ceremony in l999. Four months later, a ferry sank, claiming many lives and the locals blamed their neglect of the ritual.

Gilimanuk villagers are typical of most coastal communities, who still believe the myths and legends that others might call superstitions, but remain deep in their Islamic faith.

These traditions might be considered illogical but they are genuine expressions. In philosophical terms, the villagers believe in the equilibrium of nature. They respect the Creator and nature with a profound awe, that modern society would do well to learn from.

Like their brothers in Java, fishermen in Gilimanuk believe that Petik Laut is the way to balance the tangible and intangible worlds. To balance the relationship between God, people and Nature.