Jambi: Savoring the calm of the lake in the clouds

Syofiardi Bachyul Jb, Contributor, Sungai Penuh, Jambi

A few solitary ripples dance across the surface of the lake cradled among seven mountains, their peaks appearing like forts through the mist that frequently descends on the area.

Gunung Tujuh (seven peak) Lake in Kerinci regency, Jambi province, is the place to visit if you wish to savor the tranquility of nature.

Adventure tourists from all over the world love visiting the lake not only for its silent beauty, but the bounty of nature to be found nearby. The virgin tropical forests surrounding it seem frozen in time, with only the cries of wild animals breaking the silence.

A constant sound is the trickle of a waterfall, where lake water descends into the valley below. The rustling of trees from a cold wind makes the visitor even more aware of the solitude of the surroundings.

The 4.5 km by 3 km lake is located about 1,996 meters above sea level, the highest volcanic lake in Southeast Asia. The freshwater lake is surrounded by seven mountains: Mt. Hulu Jujuhan (2,732 m. above sea level), Mt. Hulu Tebo Kanan (2,525 m.), Mt. Tarpanggang (2,469 m.), Mt. Mandurai Besi (2,431 m.), Mt Hulu Sangir (2,330 m.), Mt. Tujuhan (2,325 m.) and Mt. Silasi (2,310 m.).

From the gap on a mountainside above the waterfall, visitors also have a clear view across the lake of Mt. Kerinci, at 3,805 m above sea level the highest mountain in Sumatra and also the highest volcano in Indonesia.

The best view of Mt. Kerinci's greenish-blue mountain with its barren, soil-brown peak is from center of the lake, about an hour's sailing in a dugboat.

There are two paths leading to the lake, or, to be exact, to either side of the lake close to the waterfall. From this point, there is a view of the peak of Mt. Tujuhan, which is shaped like an upturned boat.

Along the bank of the lake at the foot of this mountain, there is a one kilometer stretch of white sand. The sand disappears from sight in the wet season as the surface of the water rises but reemerges in the dry season when the level drops.

It is impossible to climb the part of Mt. Tujuhan facing the lake as it is very steep, but one can enjoy the view of the patch of edelweiss growing on it.

The lake functions as one of the biological diversity centers within Kerinci Seblat National Park. A great variety of plants and animals, including the perilously endangered Sumatran tiger, wild goats, deer, tapir and honey bears, are found here.

The area is also the reputed home of a mysterious pygmy-like creature, said to be half human and half orangutan. Tailless, the creature is said to be about 50 centimeters tall and have the soles of its feet facing backward. Locals who say they have spotted it tell how it quickly scurries away from view.

Britons Jeremy Holden and Debby Martir also claim they briefly caught sight of the creature during a trip to the area, and for the past nine years they have carried out research to determine its existence. Although cameras have been placed in various parts of the park, the creature has yet to be caught on film.

For those interested in observing wildlife up close but still at a safe distance, the national park center has set up a number of animal observation towers along the way to the lake. Unfortunately, the towers are in a state of disrepair.

"Generally, the wild animals have migrated to the area behind Mount Tujuhan because people frequently visit the area leading to the lake," said Jeni, better known as Pak De.

The 37 year old is one of five traditional fishermen earning a living at the lake. From Monday through Friday, he lives in a simple cabin at the lake, returning to his family home at Pasar Siulak Kecil on the weekends.

A fisherman for 13 years, he catches pareh, a small fish endemic to the lake, in some 30 fishtraps that he places at different spots near the lakeshore.

Pak De is also a tourist guide, taking them on walking tours around it. He will also ferry people to the center of the lake to view Mt. Kerinci, or take them to the stretch of white sand. Sailing round the lake will take about 12 hours.

Visitors wishing to walk round the lake can do so along a pathway, but it is difficult due to overhanging branches from giant trees. It will take about two days to complete the journey.

Although Pak De does not name his price, if you wish to spend a night in his cabin or sail to the center of the lake or to the stretch of white sand, he will be happy to accept between Rp 20,000 and Rp 50,000.

Although Gunung Tujuh Lake is located in Jambi province, the nearest and cheapest way to get there is to start from Padang, the capital of neighboring West Sumatra, and head to Sungai Penuh, the closest town to the park.

A plane ride takes only about 30 minutes. Kerinci Airlines flies the Padang-Sungai Penuh route every Wednesday for a fare of Rp 200,000.

Visitors with ample time and wishing to save money can travel overland. Sinar Kerinci, Marantama and Wira Utama are some of many public transportation companies that provide comfortable 11- seat minibuses departing to Jambi. Tickets, averaging Rp 35,000, are available at Bingkuang Aie Pacah regional transportation terminal in Padang.

Minibuses depart for Jambi at 9 a.m. and 8 p.m daily. As the journey takes about four hours, it is recommended that visitors start early so they arrive at Pasar Kersik Tuo, Kayu Aro, about an hour's drive from Sungai Penuh, in the early afternoon.

During the journey, passengers get to enjoy the panorama of Di Atas Lake (the "upper" lake, with another lake situated a few meters below it) and the green expanse of Danau Kembar tea plantations, which belong to PT Perkebunan Nusantara VI and private companies in West Sumatra. There is also the Kayu Aro tea plantation, founded during the Dutch colonial era and also owned by PT Perkebunan Nusantara VI.

Near Pasar Kersik Tuo there are several homestays, such as Paimin Homestay and Subandi Homestay. Rooms average Rp 50,000 a night.

Most homestays can provide the names of reliable guides to visit the lake, for a fee of about Rp 100,000 a day. Visitors should take a minibus (Rp 1,000) to Simpang Pelompek, and then hire a taxi motorcycle for the same fare to take them to the gateway to Gunung Tujuh Lake.

In front of the gateway is the office of Kerinci Seblat National Park. Visitors must register and pay Rp 2,000 to enter. Nearby is Pak Edes Homestay, which is managed by the M. Hattar family, a partner of the national park management. Rooms are Rp 50,000 each a night.

From this gate area, it takes another four hours to hike up to the lake along a pathway bordered with giant trees with a diameter up to two meters. If you are lucky, you can observe the varied wildlife of western Sumatra, such as gibbons, monkeys and various species of birds, along the trail.

Kerinci is home to many tourist attractions. Aside from Gunung Tujuh and Mt. Kerinci, you can also go to Telun Berasap Waterfall, so named because the splashing of the water resembles smoke, and Ladeh Panjang Swamp, which is the highest peat swamp in Sumatra and home to many species of wildlife, particularly birds.

There is also Kasah Cave, considered sacred by locals. Inside, there are seats made of stone and a mural depicting figures like a boar and a long-haired woman. A number of nearby hot springs, one of which is called Semurup, provide a rejuvenating dip.