Sun, 23 Sep 2001

It's the meat that matters in delicious Argentinean cuisine

JAKARTA (JP): Argentinean cuisine, like the dishes found in neighboring countries, received strong influence from Spain, but when it comes to taste, the country's excellent meat, especially its veal, sets it apart from the rest.

Generally, in the northern part of Argentina, where the weather is hot, locals eat mostly corn-based meals and stews; in the milder central part, stews and parrillada (barbecue) are very popular. In the colder southern area and along the coasts, seafood and lamb dishes are the foods of choice.

"But unlike Peru and Bolivia where the typical ancient Indian cuisine is still preserved, Argentina doesn't have any characteristic food. Ours is food introduced during the colonial era brought by immigrants from Spain and Italy," said chef Patricio MacLoughlin from five-star Alvear Palace Hotel in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

"However we have excellent meat, whose distinctive flavor can differentiate our food from other Latin American countries,"

"Every family has their own grill in their garden. The beef or veal for parrillada along with tripe are grilled after being marinated with chimichurri or corn oil mixed with herbs, spices and vinegar," Patricio added.

Patricio was visiting Gran Melia Jakarta for the hotel's Argentinean Food Festival at Cafe Grand Via, which has its final day on Sunday.

According to Patricio, the country has a vast area stretching from central Argentina to the coast, where cattle graze freely amid the green grass, the fresh sea breeze and the clean country air. Goats are more suited to the country's drier and mountainous eastern part.

"These factors make local meat, especially the veal, special. It is tender and succulent and also has a nice flavor and texture with less fat content," Patricio said.

Gran Melia Jakarta's executive chef Wolfgang Schmelcher said the popularity of Argentinean meat had spread. Argentinean steak houses, with a convivial atmosphere and excellent charcoal grilled meat, can be found all over Europe and Canada.

The country's strong Spanish influence in culture and cuisine dates back to the historical journey of Italian-born Christopher Columbus who sailed for the Spanish crown. On their way back to Europe, the Spanish ships also brought with them some of America's native ingredients and introduced them to the society. There has also been influences from the waves of European immigrants who settled in Argentina. Patricio is himself of Irish descent.

This explains why Argentineans prepare European food for Christmas celebrations and colonial-style food for Independence day, Patricio added.

The country's traditional ingredients are tomatoes, peppers, corn and major starch potatoes. For condiments, mild and sweet chili pepper ajimolido, paprika like chili pimenton and comimo and cumin are also used.

Generally, corn and fish are staples of Argentina's ancient Indian diet. Two of its oldest dishes are humita (corn puree with sugar and cinnamon) and carbonada criola, a beef and fruit stew.

Locals add local flavors to the various fillings of empanadas by using beef, pimenton and cumin.

Its milk-based desserts are ambrosia, huembos quimbo and leche quemada. Dulce de leche, a milk-based caramel jam, is very popular throughout the country. This slow cooked milk jam, with a thick consistency and pleasant flavor from the high fat milk and vanilla, is usually eaten with bread, toast and various kinds of cookies. A cookie dipped in chocolate is a sought-after snack for coffee time.

A traditional beverage, aside from chocolate, coffee and tea, is the bitter tea-like drink yerba mate, which is also found in Paraguay and Brazil. (Maria Endah Hulupi)