Sun, 26 Sep 2004

It's healthy, all right, but how does it taste?

Some of us shudder at the mere mention of health food. The thought of a lonely sliver of tomato swallowed up in a basket of leafy green stuff does not exactly send the tastebuds into unbridled spasms of anticipation.

But food that does us good really does not have to resemble something grudgingly dished out at a fat farm on the windswept steppes of eastern Europe.

"We talked about a health food menu, but that (a strict interpretation) was not only where we wanted to go," said Four Seasons Hotel executive chef Vindex Tengker of the decision to provide a "healthy" menu selection for guests.

Vindex, who has worked around the world, including in Spain and Bali, wanted the choices to "be a bit different, with a few exciting things, not bland". Items are grouped to "nourish and relax", for "vitality, energy and clarity" or for "antiaging and rejuvenate".

He also gave a nod to local culinary offerings by including such items as tempeh (Soybean "Burger" with Onion Bun and Alfalfa Sprouts) and chili (Pineapple Compote with Chili Pepper and Apple Sorbet) on the menu, which is changed every few months.

Healthy aspirations or not, the proof really is in the pudding, or rather the low-fat, low sodium desserts on offer. Overall, the food we tasted was delicious and satisfying, with standouts of Grilled Lemon Chicken and Spinach Roll-up with Papaya Seed Vinaigrette, a buttery, featherlight Silken Tofu with Baby Bok Choy and Carrot Reduction, the aforementioned compote and a rich Banana and Green Tea Milkshake.

Here are chef Vindex's recipes to try making at home.

Grilled Lemon Chicken and Spinach Roll-Up with Papaya Seed Vinaigrette

For spinach crepes

* 500 ml fresh milk * 1 egg * 250 grams flour * 1 tbs butter, melted * 1 tbsspinach puree * salt and pepper to taste

Method:

* Mix all ingredients and make thin omelette layers with the crepe dough in a nonstick pan with a little butter.

* Marinate 400 grams of chicken breast with lemon juice, salt, pepper and herbs (thyme, basil and parsley, chopped), then grill for 10 minutes or until done.

For dressing:

* 250 gr ripe papaya flesh * 30 gr papaya seed * 200 ml salad oil * 50 mlred wine vinegar * salt and pepper to taste

Method :

1. Blend papaya meat and papaya seed until smooth and gradually add salad oil until dressing thickens. 2. Season with salt, pepper and red wine vinegar.

To finish: * 4 pcsspinach crepes (12 cm diamter) * 400 gr grilled chicken breast, sliced * 40 grEnglish spinach leaves, julienne * 200 ml papaya seed dressing * 4 pcsbasil leaves * 8 gr pinenuts, toasted

- Wrap 100 grams of chicken breast in each spinach crepe together with English spinach and serve with papaya seed dressing. Garnish with basil leaves and pinenuts.

Grilled Salmon and Brown Rice Wrapped with Avocado, Pickled Ginger and Leak

* 400 gr salmon without skin * 160 gr brown rice * 4 tortillas * 40 grpickled ginger * 80 gr sliced avocado * 80 grJapanese cucumber for garnish * 80 mlsoya sauce

Method:

1. Spread one tortilla with steamed brown rice to cover thinly. 3. Put grilled salmon on the top of rice together with ginger and avocado. 4. Roll it tightly and sear in a hot flat pan for about 3-5 minutes on each side. 5. Then cut salmon roll into two pieces and garnish with cucumber on plate. Serve with soya sauce.

Silken Tofu with Baby Bok Choy

* 2 packs Japanese silken tofu * 150 gr corn flour * 12 pcs baby bok choy, steamed * 2 cups carrot reduction * 4 sprigs coriander leaves * 20 gr leek, julienne

Method :

1. Cut Japanese tofu into eight rectangular pieces and season with salt and pepper. 2. Coat tofu with corn flour and deep-fry until golden brown. 3. Set on the plate three steamed baby bok choy for each portion and put four tofu on the top. 4. Pour carrot reduction around it. 5. Garnish with coriander leaves and leek.

Carrot Reduction

* 800 ml carrot juice * 8 pcsstar anise * 4 pcs cinnamon sticks (3 cm long) * 100 gr sugar

Method :

- Boil all ingredients in a pan and reduce until the sauce thickens to a semithick consistency.

Citrus Glazed Soba Noodles

* 240 gr cooked soba noodles * 40 gr raisins * 60 grgrated carrot * 100 ml sesame dressing * 4 pcsshiso/oba leaves * 1 pc shredded nori

Method:

1. Mix soba noodles with 40 grams of grated carrots and raisins with sesame dressing. 2. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 3. Serve on a plate with shiso leaves and garnish on top with the rest of the grated carrot and shredded nori.

Banana and Green Tea Milkshake

For Green Tea Ice Cream:

* 1 ltrlowfat milk * 150 gr sugar * 3 tbs green tea * 30 grstabilizer

Method:

1. Heat milk and sugar, add green tea powder and mix well. 2. Add stabilizer and keep cool and process in ice cream machine.

For milkshake:

* 1 pc banana raja * 1 cuplowfat milk * 2 scoops green tea ice cream

- Mix together, garnish with one piece of biscotti and a mint leaf.

Apple Sorbet and Pineapple Compote

Apple Sorbet:

* 1 liter apple juice * 1 kg red apples, chopped * 500 gr sugar * 1 tbsglucose * Juice of one lime * 1000 cc water * White of one egg (sufficient for 10 servings)

Method:

1. Mix apples with water. Boil all ingredients and strain. 2. Add apple juice and process in ice machine.

Pineapple Compote:

* 600 grams cubed pineapple * 500 ml water * 3 red chili peppers * mint leaf * 100 grams sugar * star anise

1. Boil ice-cube size pineapple pieces with sugar and water with chili stalks. Let cool. 2. Serve atop apple sorbet, garnished with star anise and red chili.

-- Bruce Emond