Italian jeweler puts silver out for Asia's young

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

When it comes to running his jewelry business, Roberto Perlini likes to do everything, literally, his way.

Ever since he started Perlini's Silver in 1989, the Singapore- based Italian has been responsible for the creative direction, production and communication by himself.

"I have a team, I discuss with them, but at the end of the day it is about what I feel, what I like. I want to do it my style," Perlini said in a recent interview here.

So far, people like what he sells, and Perlini's has ignited a mini gold rush for once staid silver.

Once considered the stuff of ethnic-y creations and tourist trinkets, the metal has become sophisticated, trendy yet affordable pieces of made-in-Italy jewelry under the Perlini's brand.

The price factor is the most appealing thing about Perlini's products, as prices can be as low as Rp 50,000 while the quality is pretty good.

It began with a love story.

Instead of finishing his studies in the United States, the then 23-year-old Perlini dropped out and followed his girlfriend Ilis back to her home in Singapore.

Ilis, now his wife and handling the business' finances, is a Chinese-Indonesian who has lived in Singapore since the age of 12.

The Perlinis set up the silver jewelry business, initially targeted for upmarket consumers with a higher price point.

"I came from a jewelry town, Tuscany, so it was easy to jump into the business. My grandmother was involved in the antique jewelry business. I didn't want to do that, however. I already liked silver because it is 'young'," said Perlini.

There was no silver shop in Singpaore at the time, and the metal was mostly associated with the intricate Balinese or Thai- style ethnic creations.

The breakthrough came with simple silver bracelets adorned with tiny, earnest-looking teddy bear charms in the early 1990s, which marked the start of designing silver jewelry for the young and stylish.

"I wanted to do something cute and charming, and teddy bear fit the criteria. It's also classic, like the shapes of the heart and moon, so it's easy to like. The response was incredible," said Perlini, 40.

He aimed for young consumers, making inroads with products which were different in design from others on the market, with a cute and trendy appeal.

"We're going for fashion. If you buy gold, how many times can you afford a new bracelet ... ? Gold is still good for an investment, but silver is something you wear and feel," Perlini said.

"Packaging is a very important part as well. People will buy something nice. That's why we put a lot of effort into our package."

However, it was not until he opened the third store that Perlini realized the business potential.

"Honestly, the business plan came later. I wasn't doing communication, campaigns, I don't know how to compete, whereas retail is a very competitive business. A lot of people have the aspiration to do it because it's fun," he said.

Perlini then embarked on a franchise basis and expanded the brand and image.

From one upmarket silver jewelry boutique in Singapore's The Promenade ("the place doesn't exist anymore"), it now has 10 branches in Singapore, two in Kuala Lumpur, six in Jakarta, two in Bandung, West Java, and one in Surabaya, East Java.

The key, he said, was regularly delivering something new and different.

Perlini's Silver introduces new things every month instead of launching on certain occasions or seasonal products.

One outlet holds 700 to 1,000 different designs, with eight or nine showcases.

The designs keep up with the fashion trends and combine silver with unusual materials, such as denim, leather, plastic, rubber, walnut, organza and steel cable.

All the materials and designs are made entirely in Italy.

"Made in Italy is about design, being innovative and new. We believe in good quality. But things don't have to be expensive. It's about the way we work with partners, business plan on purchase. It's about striking a very good relationship with people," said Perlini, who makes a monthly trip to Italy to find inspiration.

None of his designers are based in Asia because Perlini prefers that the team is not influenced by what is available locally, and he wants to emphasize Italian silver.

Italian silver is around 95 percent pure silver, with a little copper or bronze, an alloy better known as sterling silver.

In terms of Asian customers, Perlini said they were not that different with customers in the West, except they pay more attention to details and wearability.

"Caucasians don't think too much about comfort. If they like something, they are going to buy it even if it doesn't really fit. With Asian customers, we have to pay attention to weight and size," he said.

Indonesians, meanwhile, like simple designs, with cubic zircon, but are very trendy people, he said.

The market here is so good that Perlini plans to open more stores.

"Indonesians are naturally inclined to silver. Singaporeans were very skeptical about silver when I first started. Indonesia, however, has its own silver tradition. So, from an educational point of view, it's no problem. People understand."

Indonesian jewelry, he added, was excellent and made with tremendous skills, but is held back by a lack of marketing and public relations skills.

"Asian jewelry has this technique and incredible details that we can't obtain. Could be the marketing approach. Branding is not yet there. Indonesian jewelry must wear proudly the 'made in Indonesia' sign. Say it in a creative brand, get consultants. It's all about communication and public relations. You have something, you have to keep it. Not every country has it."

In its 15th year in business, Perlini's Silver aims at pushing far ahead, creating personal products and reaching more Asian countries.

It also wants to capture male consumers, a segment Perlini said was improving.

"The possibilities are endless. It is a very good business," he said.