Industrialization threatens existence of traditional batik

By Akmad Solikhan

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Batik tulis (fine batik) is a noble artwork which needs to be preserved. Our ancestors used their skillful hands to express ideas through stone, wood and brass and created decorative ornaments. Their art later developed into the making of clothes known as batik tulis.

Various artworks in this country will be marginalized sooner or later by the changes of time if people are not aware of this at an early stage. With their cultural heritage, Yogyakarta and Surakarta should logically preserve and maintain them. Batik tulis has a historical value which cannot be measured in terms of money.

The emergence of print and stamp batik produced by modern machines on a large scale has adversely affected batik tulis on the market. Factory made batik is far lower in price compared to batik tulis. Batik motives integrating contrasting colors look more attractive. Batik tulis preserved its characteristic colors of brown, blue, black and yellow. The motives of animals and flowers are also monotonous.

Industrialization has crushed the small enterprises of batik tulis in villages. This has resulted in most batik tulis workers leaving home to join batik factories.

Print and stamp batik with its more attractive motives diverts the consumer's attention. But from a quality aspect, batik tulis does not easily fade. Its fine quality with traditional motives remains incomparable and people still hunt for it despite its much higher price.

Some batik manufacturers continue to defend the existence of batik tulis. In Taman, a kampong located in the Patehan area not far from Yogyakarta palace, nearly one third of residents are batikmakers. Foreign tourists from various countries come every year, especially in the holiday season of June to August. They usually go there after visiting kraton, Tamansari fortress and the Nagsem bird market.

A Taman resident, Moedjido, 70, said batik tulis was still sought after by both foreign and domestic tourists in the early 1970s. Employing three workers, he managed to sell 200 to 240 pieces of batik tulis a month.

However, the prosperity experienced by Moedjido, a father of six, did not last long. Ten years later, batik tulis was overshadowed by the progress of time. Foreign tourists were no longer on the lookout for traditional batik motives but for those in the form of souvenirs like fans, wallets and paintings of legends of the heroine, Nyi Loro Kidul, the queen of the south coast. Paintings also depict Prambanan and Borobudur temples, Mount Merapi as well. Also found on paintings are images of wayang, gamelan, kraton and Sultan Hamengkubuwono.

"The change in market demand has downsized the batik tulis industry. But I will not be influenced by lower consumer demand which endangers traditional culture. I will continue my efforts to preserve batik tulis as an invaluable culture," said Moedjido, who learned the technique of batik at the age of 10.

In order to preserve the traditional culture, Moedjido took pains to pass on his skills by opening a course on batik in 1983 in his modest house. Many foreign tourists join the course for one or two weeks to learn the skill of designing motives and making batik. Some have further developed their skills and opened batik shops in the Netherlands. Foreign tourists pay from Rp 50,000 to Rp 75,000 for three hours. Tools and equipment are provided with the course fee.

A number of handicraft industry high schools (SMIK) from various cities use Moedjido's home for practical work. The students learn to make batik in about three months. The cost is Rp 60,000 per student but they must buy all the tools and equipment themselves. "I have two instructors to teach batik- making," said Moedjido.

In order to meet foreign tourists' demands, many batik artists can be found on the sidewalks of Prawirotaman, Tirtodipuran, Malioboro, Sosrowijayan and around kraton, the tourists' beaten track.

Sagi, 31, has set up his business on Prawirotaman and can sell two batik paintings a day. A painting measuring 30 centimeters by 50 centimeters costs between Rp 25,000 and Rp 50,000. He paints by request only. It takes him about six hours to finish one painting.

As a street batik painter, Sagi does not intend to change the standard motives of traditional batik. He only tries to meet his daily cost of living. "I grew up in a family of batikmakers. Because traditional batik is vanishing as a result of the industrialization of it, I started painting batik on the streets," said Sagi, a father of three.

It is indeed very dilemmatic to defend traditional culture if, on the other hand, one must earn enough to make ends meet. The regional government should inject a new spirit to foster the culture of traditional batik in Yogyakarta and Surakarta. With adequate funds and facilities, it would be possible to restore the batik tulis art form through small industries as a non-oil commodity on the free market.