Industrialization threatens existence of traditional batik
Industrialization threatens existence of traditional batik
By Akmad Solikhan
YOGYAKARTA (JP): Batik tulis (fine batik) is a noble artwork
which needs to be preserved. Our ancestors used their skillful
hands to express ideas through stone, wood and brass and created
decorative ornaments. Their art later developed into the making
of clothes known as batik tulis.
Various artworks in this country will be marginalized sooner
or later by the changes of time if people are not aware of this
at an early stage. With their cultural heritage, Yogyakarta and
Surakarta should logically preserve and maintain them. Batik
tulis has a historical value which cannot be measured in terms of
money.
The emergence of print and stamp batik produced by modern
machines on a large scale has adversely affected batik tulis on
the market. Factory made batik is far lower in price compared to
batik tulis. Batik motives integrating contrasting colors look
more attractive. Batik tulis preserved its characteristic colors
of brown, blue, black and yellow. The motives of animals and
flowers are also monotonous.
Industrialization has crushed the small enterprises of batik
tulis in villages. This has resulted in most batik tulis workers
leaving home to join batik factories.
Print and stamp batik with its more attractive motives diverts
the consumer's attention. But from a quality aspect, batik tulis
does not easily fade. Its fine quality with traditional motives
remains incomparable and people still hunt for it despite its
much higher price.
Some batik manufacturers continue to defend the existence of
batik tulis. In Taman, a kampong located in the Patehan area not
far from Yogyakarta palace, nearly one third of residents are
batikmakers. Foreign tourists from various countries come every
year, especially in the holiday season of June to August. They
usually go there after visiting kraton, Tamansari fortress and
the Nagsem bird market.
A Taman resident, Moedjido, 70, said batik tulis was still
sought after by both foreign and domestic tourists in the early
1970s. Employing three workers, he managed to sell 200 to 240
pieces of batik tulis a month.
However, the prosperity experienced by Moedjido, a father of
six, did not last long. Ten years later, batik tulis was
overshadowed by the progress of time. Foreign tourists were no
longer on the lookout for traditional batik motives but for those
in the form of souvenirs like fans, wallets and paintings of
legends of the heroine, Nyi Loro Kidul, the queen of the south
coast. Paintings also depict Prambanan and Borobudur temples,
Mount Merapi as well. Also found on paintings are images of
wayang, gamelan, kraton and Sultan Hamengkubuwono.
"The change in market demand has downsized the batik tulis
industry. But I will not be influenced by lower consumer demand
which endangers traditional culture. I will continue my efforts
to preserve batik tulis as an invaluable culture," said Moedjido,
who learned the technique of batik at the age of 10.
In order to preserve the traditional culture, Moedjido took
pains to pass on his skills by opening a course on batik in 1983
in his modest house. Many foreign tourists join the course for
one or two weeks to learn the skill of designing motives and
making batik. Some have further developed their skills and opened
batik shops in the Netherlands. Foreign tourists pay from Rp
50,000 to Rp 75,000 for three hours. Tools and equipment are
provided with the course fee.
A number of handicraft industry high schools (SMIK) from
various cities use Moedjido's home for practical work. The
students learn to make batik in about three months. The cost is
Rp 60,000 per student but they must buy all the tools and
equipment themselves. "I have two instructors to teach batik-
making," said Moedjido.
In order to meet foreign tourists' demands, many batik artists
can be found on the sidewalks of Prawirotaman, Tirtodipuran,
Malioboro, Sosrowijayan and around kraton, the tourists' beaten
track.
Sagi, 31, has set up his business on Prawirotaman and can sell
two batik paintings a day. A painting measuring 30 centimeters by
50 centimeters costs between Rp 25,000 and Rp 50,000. He paints
by request only. It takes him about six hours to finish one
painting.
As a street batik painter, Sagi does not intend to change the
standard motives of traditional batik. He only tries to meet his
daily cost of living. "I grew up in a family of batikmakers.
Because traditional batik is vanishing as a result of the
industrialization of it, I started painting batik on the
streets," said Sagi, a father of three.
It is indeed very dilemmatic to defend traditional culture if,
on the other hand, one must earn enough to make ends meet. The
regional government should inject a new spirit to foster the
culture of traditional batik in Yogyakarta and Surakarta. With
adequate funds and facilities, it would be possible to restore
the batik tulis art form through small industries as a non-oil
commodity on the free market.