Wed, 12 Jun 2002

Indonesians taste buds try French cheeses

Christina Schott, Contributor, Jakarta

Why do Indonesian people dislike cheese? "It stinks", most would probably say. "But why do you like Durian?" "Well, that's something else; the fruit is indigenous and sweet..."

Yes, it might be something else - but it is probably not the strong smell or taste of cheese in general, but a question of familiarity to the typical scent.

"It is a matter of culture," says Claude Lauxerrois, one of the Top Ten Maitres Fromager (Masters of Cheese) in the world. "Every strong taste needs to be explored, starting with a more convenient flavor. Children in France usually also don't start with eating a Roquefort (a greenish-black spotted mold cheese)."

Maitre Claude has been to Jakarta seven times to promote several varieties of famous French cheese at the Le Meridien hotel in cooperation with the French Embassy and Air France. Le Meridien is trying to feed off of the success of the French Cheese Festivals which it has held every year since 1996.

"It is the French and other European communities in Jakarta who asked that the event be held every year," the hotel's public relations officer Maureen Mengko says.

"There has been an increasing number of curious local people coming for our different cheese dishes. Compare that to the case of wine, which became popular in Indonesia thanks to just such a promotion."

For cheese loving Westerners, it is really difficult to find good cheese in Jakarta - let alone fresh milk products like curd or whipped cream. Of course, there are the individually wrapped sandwich slices and some cream cheese in every supermarket. But cheese is supposed to be melted on pizza on other delectable dishes, which most cheese is used for in western countries.

The French cheese promotion allows cheese buffs to come to Maitre Claude's buffet for 35 different cheeses - from sharp tasting Alsatian Munster to the aromatic goat cheese from Southern France to the stylish Olivet, a black mold cheese from the Orleans region.

The Chief of Cheese - or "Papi" -- how the hotel's staff call the small, gray-haired man with the cheerful eyes -- also wants to convince at least some Asian customers to become cheese fans.

Therefore he serves some varieties he thinks suit the Asian tongue, for example the Explorateur, a smooth triple cream cheese with a light peppered taste - similar to the Brie, which is the favorite of most Indonesian cheese customers.

"Indonesians generally frown on cheese just because it is either very smelly, very hard or even dark," Claude explains. "So I offer them, for the first try, a creamy type, which is neither smelly nor strong in taste and it looks pure white. Later on they can get used to stronger sorts."

The Cheese Master will demonstrate to the skeptic how good French cheese is. He will put a little piece of cheese onto a crispy slice of oven-warm bread and hold it under the nose of the skeptic.

Another approach for cheese neophytes might be to try some starter dishes or a main course buffet at Le Meridien's restaurant La Brasserie.

Among the daily changing choice, the French Chief offers some dishes combined with several cheeses. For example a pleasing spinach salad with Roquefort, the classic French quiche (a salty cake with ham or vegetables, topped with a mixture of cheese and egg) or pasta with a creamy cheese sauce.

To enhanced the French atmosphere during the Cheese Festival the Meridien will have La Vaudrouille (wandering singer) Gilles Butin along with his organ.

His French songs remind the audience of traditional fairs or markets. Although the background decoration in the colors of France seems a little bit artificial, the French atmosphere is not ruined by the tropical garden outside.

Enjoy the French ambience - and it is okay to be there even if you don't dare to try anything French, as they still have fried noodles and fish.

The French Cheese Festival at the hotel Le Meridien on Jl. Jenderal Sudirman Kav.18-20, will last until June 16, 2002. The cheese buffet is included in a lunch or dinner in the hotel's restaurant La Brasserie for 150.000 Rp per person. For further information please call (021) 251 3131.