Indonesian student comes close at Paris contest

Indonesian student comes close at Paris contest

Kunang Helmi, Contributor/Paris

An Indonesian fashion writer commented recently that local
designers never seem to renew their inspiration and live far from
the innovative trends found on the international fashion scene.

Perhaps the writer was not aware that Indonesia's younger
generation certainly makes a huge effort to keep up, and even
create, new trends. One way is to win a fashion competition in
Indonesia and participate in a more important one in Paris.

Here, if they are lucky enough to be able to afford the
ticket, they can spend a week window-shopping or meeting French
young designers and more established ones at the competition
venue.

This year's Indonesian delegation to the International Young
Fashion Designers Contest, consisting of embassy members, fashion
students and Indonesian expats, was largely outnumbered by the
Japanese delegation. Despite this fact, whenever an Indonesian
creation was presented, enthusiastic clapping rose up from the
ranks of the spectators.

While woman of letters Pia Alisjahbana voted on the
distinguished jury that included veteran fashion designer Pierre
Cardin, five Indonesian fashion students competed with others
from 14 other nations for the Accessories Prize and 10
Indonesians for the Grand Prix Fashion Award in Paris. The
contest has become an important part of the French fashion
calendar and is held in December each year.

"This is the 12th year that Indonesia has taken part in the
fashion competition sponsored by Air France," said Pia. "Although
the competition existed for 22 years, I only found out about it
while on a trip to Paris 13 years ago. Our publishing house,
Femina magazines, and more particularly DEWI magazine, holds a
preliminary competition in Indonesia every year to select the
participants from those attending officially recognized fashion
schools."

This year Sweden, Germany and Thailand joined the ranks of
participating nations from four continents. The Federation
Francaise de la Couture, du Pret-a-Porter des Couturiers et des
Createurs de Mode organized the event, which celebrates the
importance of French fashion worldwide. The lucky winners of the
two main prizes earn a certificate, a year's study at the school
organized by the federation, a return ticket to Paris and an
important scholarship of 3,000 euros.

Additionally, the Lesage Embroidery School also offers 30
hours of specialized training in embroidery to the lucky winner.

The theme was environment and ecology for the 22nd
competition, which took place at the Carrousel du Louvre,
traditionally the venue for big fashion events in Paris. Called
on to show their imagination, students resorted to materials such
as vetiver root, raffia, split bamboo, raw wool, cotton, silk and
even wood for a much lauded handbag.

In each section there are incentive prizes besides the Grand
Prize (the latter may not be awarded every year if the jury does
not find a creation judged worthy of each section).

Outside in the entrance hall visitors were greeted by the
accessories entered in the competition. Displayed prominently,
they came under close scrutiny because this year they would not
be presented in a catwalk show as before. Further on, fashion
students presented the conceptual sketches of their entries for
the fashion competition on large panels.

However, nothing can compete with the atmosphere of a live
fashion show abuzz with happy spectators, lovely mannequins and
exquisite creations in the spotlight. Under the eyes of fashion
designers such as Franck Sorbier and Marc Le Bihan with Madame
Catherine Join-Deiterle from the Fashion Museum Galliera, all of
whom were also members of the jury, large photos of the
accessories in the competition flashed by.

Fur, feathers and gold straps delicately adorned a strapless
black cocktail dress. A shaped hand encircling the neck and
protecting the mouth with a bejeweled ring finger, made for an
original necklace fashioned out of fragrant vetiver root, by
Indonesia's Tex Saverio Gunawan, won an Incitation Prize of 450
euros in that section.

Pakistani students used lots of metal in their entries, like
oversized watches together with a black and white ring. Republic
of China students went for the ethnic look with long necklaces,
resembling ethnic minority jewelry, hanging at the back or metal
bosom cups worn over a black dress.

Mawardi, a student of the Bunka School of Fashion in Jakarta
narrowly missed the Grand Prix but won an Incitation Prize for
his gown. The design was made of horsehair material, which is
normally used to manufacture handbags. The yellow, beige and
olive green "petals" were enhanced by metal circles. The evening
dress was ample, with a matching, pyramid-shaped cape hood that
was very elegant.

The winner was Sun Dawei, a Malaysian student studying in
Paris entered in the French delegation. His dress was a delicate
petal strewn cocoon sheath in white to pale blue organdy.

Fellow French student Batteux won the main accessory prize
with his large belt, like a lavish sash with floral
ornamentation. Some spectators grumbled that it was not fair that
France carried off the main prizes but it was the first time it
had happened, so the jury cannot be accused of favoritism.

Cardin was so impressed by the main fashion prize that he
awarded a supplementary prize, but it was not clear whether it
was for the mannequin or the petal dress itself.

After the event the participants from Canada, America,
Indonesia, Japan, Pakistan, the Philippines, China, Thailand,
Argentina, Columbia, Peru, France, Germany, Sweden and Britain
streamed out to enjoy the sparkling Christmas decorations lining
the Champs Elysees and the Avenue de l'Opera. Yes, one can also
love Paris in the winter.