Indonesian student comes close at Paris contest

Kunang Helmi, Contributor/Paris

An Indonesian fashion writer commented recently that local designers never seem to renew their inspiration and live far from the innovative trends found on the international fashion scene.

Perhaps the writer was not aware that Indonesia's younger generation certainly makes a huge effort to keep up, and even create, new trends. One way is to win a fashion competition in Indonesia and participate in a more important one in Paris.

Here, if they are lucky enough to be able to afford the ticket, they can spend a week window-shopping or meeting French young designers and more established ones at the competition venue.

This year's Indonesian delegation to the International Young Fashion Designers Contest, consisting of embassy members, fashion students and Indonesian expats, was largely outnumbered by the Japanese delegation. Despite this fact, whenever an Indonesian creation was presented, enthusiastic clapping rose up from the ranks of the spectators.

While woman of letters Pia Alisjahbana voted on the distinguished jury that included veteran fashion designer Pierre Cardin, five Indonesian fashion students competed with others from 14 other nations for the Accessories Prize and 10 Indonesians for the Grand Prix Fashion Award in Paris. The contest has become an important part of the French fashion calendar and is held in December each year.

"This is the 12th year that Indonesia has taken part in the fashion competition sponsored by Air France," said Pia. "Although the competition existed for 22 years, I only found out about it while on a trip to Paris 13 years ago. Our publishing house, Femina magazines, and more particularly DEWI magazine, holds a preliminary competition in Indonesia every year to select the participants from those attending officially recognized fashion schools."

This year Sweden, Germany and Thailand joined the ranks of participating nations from four continents. The Federation Francaise de la Couture, du Pret-a-Porter des Couturiers et des Createurs de Mode organized the event, which celebrates the importance of French fashion worldwide. The lucky winners of the two main prizes earn a certificate, a year's study at the school organized by the federation, a return ticket to Paris and an important scholarship of 3,000 euros.

Additionally, the Lesage Embroidery School also offers 30 hours of specialized training in embroidery to the lucky winner.

The theme was environment and ecology for the 22nd competition, which took place at the Carrousel du Louvre, traditionally the venue for big fashion events in Paris. Called on to show their imagination, students resorted to materials such as vetiver root, raffia, split bamboo, raw wool, cotton, silk and even wood for a much lauded handbag.

In each section there are incentive prizes besides the Grand Prize (the latter may not be awarded every year if the jury does not find a creation judged worthy of each section).

Outside in the entrance hall visitors were greeted by the accessories entered in the competition. Displayed prominently, they came under close scrutiny because this year they would not be presented in a catwalk show as before. Further on, fashion students presented the conceptual sketches of their entries for the fashion competition on large panels.

However, nothing can compete with the atmosphere of a live fashion show abuzz with happy spectators, lovely mannequins and exquisite creations in the spotlight. Under the eyes of fashion designers such as Franck Sorbier and Marc Le Bihan with Madame Catherine Join-Deiterle from the Fashion Museum Galliera, all of whom were also members of the jury, large photos of the accessories in the competition flashed by.

Fur, feathers and gold straps delicately adorned a strapless black cocktail dress. A shaped hand encircling the neck and protecting the mouth with a bejeweled ring finger, made for an original necklace fashioned out of fragrant vetiver root, by Indonesia's Tex Saverio Gunawan, won an Incitation Prize of 450 euros in that section.

Pakistani students used lots of metal in their entries, like oversized watches together with a black and white ring. Republic of China students went for the ethnic look with long necklaces, resembling ethnic minority jewelry, hanging at the back or metal bosom cups worn over a black dress.

Mawardi, a student of the Bunka School of Fashion in Jakarta narrowly missed the Grand Prix but won an Incitation Prize for his gown. The design was made of horsehair material, which is normally used to manufacture handbags. The yellow, beige and olive green "petals" were enhanced by metal circles. The evening dress was ample, with a matching, pyramid-shaped cape hood that was very elegant.

The winner was Sun Dawei, a Malaysian student studying in Paris entered in the French delegation. His dress was a delicate petal strewn cocoon sheath in white to pale blue organdy.

Fellow French student Batteux won the main accessory prize with his large belt, like a lavish sash with floral ornamentation. Some spectators grumbled that it was not fair that France carried off the main prizes but it was the first time it had happened, so the jury cannot be accused of favoritism.

Cardin was so impressed by the main fashion prize that he awarded a supplementary prize, but it was not clear whether it was for the mannequin or the petal dress itself.

After the event the participants from Canada, America, Indonesia, Japan, Pakistan, the Philippines, China, Thailand, Argentina, Columbia, Peru, France, Germany, Sweden and Britain streamed out to enjoy the sparkling Christmas decorations lining the Champs Elysees and the Avenue de l'Opera. Yes, one can also love Paris in the winter.