Indonesian food gets a modern makeover

Broto Dharma, The Jakarta Post/Jakarta

Indonesian food is still finding it tough going in making the transition from its traditional domain of the home and the sidewalk stall to a more upmarket setting. Cengkeh is one of a group of new eateries out to change all that.

If you do not like sidewalk seafood and are not interested in the amusing sideshow of pestering street vendors hawking toys of a dubious nature, there has not been much reason to make a culinary foray to the Pecenongan area downtown.

Way back in the early 1990s there was still the venerable Nordjwik restaurant, serving up Dutch cuisine in an olde worlde setting, but then it was gone, like so many Jakarta eateries, seemingly vanished overnight.

There are a couple of outstanding Padang restaurants around, but, frankly, if there is no pressing reason to brave the traffic, then why bother to go there, except perhaps on a leisurely Sunday?

Cengkeh, with its enticing tease of "modern" Indonesian food may change that for Jakarta foodies.

The restaurant is located on Jl. Juanda III, with a Bakoel Koffee shop in the front section; the two businesses, with their bygone nuance, separate but equal, go together just fine.

The restaurant occupies the back of a long, narrow old shop- house; as one dining companion pointed out, the setup -- including large flower arrangements and partitions -- provides tasteful, undisturbed individual dining areas, including a small enclave tucked away in a corner. The walls of the restaurant are decorated with works by the modern Indonesian artist Hanafi (there is also an upstairs for private parties).

But the use of that word "modern", of course, is also a tempting invitation to pounce on Cengkeh and gleefully slap it out of its culinary pretensions.

More often that not in the transition to a more refined setting, Indonesian food becomes an emasculated version of its former self, robbed of its taste and texture in the name of conforming to the palates of all, especially the HandyClean- toting, Aqua-gargling crowd.

That said, many are dutifully making an attempt: In the last few months, Kapulaga in Blok S, South Jakarta (down-home style cuisine), Chalita in Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta (predominantly Acehnese) and Celebes (not as encompassing as its name suggests, but Manadonese) in the revamped Setia Budi building, also in South Jakarta, have all opened their doors.

Cengkeh, founded about six months ago by what one acquaintance described as "three dynamic young women", including catering business owner Niah Hanafiah, strives to keep intact the potent elements that make up Indonesian food even if it is in a gentrified setting -- no ear-splitting noise or exhaust fumes here.

To my taste buds (granted, I'm not Indonesian), not much has been lost in the translation.

On a predominantly Central Javanese-Balinese menu (spicy beef soup tengkleng, nasi liwet, nasi Bali), they have kept the guts -- which translates into no skimping on offal or the chili quotient -- and the glory, with a distinctly hearty, traditional taste.

"The restaurant owners wanted to keep a genuine taste but put it in a pleasant setting, where the concern for hygiene is top," said manager Joko Waluyo, who added that Cengkeh has passed the taste test with its returning customers, predominantly locals, especially Chinese-Indonesians, and a smattering of expatriates.

It's good value for money. A filling plate of nasi liwet Bedoyo, with rice, opor ayam (chicken in coconut milk), boiled egg, steamed tofu, liver satay, crispy tempeh, pumpkin stew and crackers is Rp 28,000 ++, about standard for the main courses.

It would help if the menu was expanded a bit -- rendang, Indonesia's claim to culinary fame, would do nicely, thank you -- although Joko said a Payakumbuh menu, with food from West Sumatra, has been offered.

One dining companion also said the mixed modern-traditional theme needed to be thought through a bit more (perhaps a few more of the shadow puppet prints inside the restaurant instead of the hallway?), the lighting could be toned down at night for a more relaxed mood and also some music could be put on.

All said, the above are minor, forgivable gripes; otherwise, Cengkeh is a spicy treat worth the trip.

--------------------------------- Cengkeh Modern Indonesian Cuisine Jl. H. Ir. Juanda III, No. 31 M Tel. 021-350-3115 ---------------------------------