Indian offerings to beat the 'krismon' blues
By John Aglionby
JAKARTA (JP): As the krismon (krisis moneter) becomes more and more of a kristal (krisis total), the need to book a table at five-star hotel restaurants has become redundant.
More often than not the armies of elegantly attired waiters and waitresses outnumber the guests in the wake of price hikes that have seen the cost of a club sandwich outstrip tens of millions of people's weekly wage packets.
However, until Sept. 4, Le Meridien is running an Indian food promotion that is a relative oasis of affordability.
The food is not cheap, especially compared to what is on offer in the tent cities of celebrity-run cafes that are sprouting up across the capital. But at Rp 59,000 (US$5.30) ++ for a smorgasbord of tantalizing dishes from across India, it is much better value than most other meals in its class.
At first glance the lunchtime spread, served in the hotel's Lemon Grass restaurant, appears disappointing. The food takes up remarkably little space but then size isn't everything.
Reflecting the current trend in India where apparently 70 percent of the population shies away from meat and fish, the vegetarian dishes are given the most prominence.
The buffet dishes are changed every day. On one day there were three vegetable dishes in addition to a dal (lentil-based dishes and a permanent fixture) and a choice of pulao and biryani offerings.
People used to sculpting their Javanese rice into little pyramids to eat with their hands will find the rice a struggle for the Indian chefs have brought, along with a suitcase or two of South Asian spices, sacks of basmati rice. The difference is very noticeable, although perhaps in a concession to Indonesian tastebuds, it was not as dry as one would have expected.
Nestling next to the vegetarian dishes is the promotion's second permanent fixture, a deliciously cool mixed raita containing yogurt, mint and a selection of fruits. Chutneys (two different mango and a lemon one on that day) are also to be found and they are a must for anyone wanting a little more kick to their meal.
For this was the promotion's one major disappointment. None of the food was really that hot. The fish curry was a smooth korma which one would not expect to blow the roof of one's mouth off, ditto the tandoori chicken, and the mutton curries and the second chicken dish were roganjoshes or of that ilk. Not one had the vaguest pretension of being a vindaloo, let alone a Madras.
No Indian meal is complete without some sort of bread and Le Meridien is offering both nan (albeit only plain) and tandoori roti.
Beyond the breads, almost out of sight, are the desserts. In addition to a selection of fruit were the great rice pudding and a custardesque heated milk that seemed to be more of a sauce than a dessert in itself.
Where your pocket will be hit however, if you want to complete the Indian experience, is on the drinks front. A New Delhi delight (vodka, cointreau and Baileys) is only Rp 4,000 less than the buffet and the nonalcoholic punches are Rp 27,500.
For dinner, the buffet is replaced by an a la carte menu (which is so beautiful it is worth putting in your handbag). This is not as good value as the lunch buffet, but it is still on par with any of the capital's specialist Indian restaurants and offers a much wider selection than the midday meal.