Wed, 15 Nov 2000

In the shadows of Wayang Restaurant

The Wayang Restaurant is located in the leafy, residential streets behind the Hotel Ambhara in the Blok M area of South Jakarta, at Jl. Iskandarsyah Raya I No. 9 to be precise.

This part of the city is particularly well-served by fine restaurants, many of which have been visited by Epicurus in the past.

However, despite it's having been open for around 1 1/2 years according to a member of the restaurants staff, Epicurus had yet to get around to paying a call. So, on a Sunday afternoon at 1:30, Epicurus decided it was high time to check out what Wayang had to offer.

Upon entering, Epicurus and partner were politely greeted and efficiently shown to their table. Epicurus and partner were, rather surprisingly, the only patrons in the restaurant and this continued to be the case until they finally took their leave some two hours later.

The restaurant itself was comfortably if not imaginatively furnished in the style that has come to predominate in Indonesian restaurants today, namely a random admixture of supposedly traditional furnishings, carvings and tapestries from Java and Bali.

Given the fact that the restaurant was completely empty, it was not surprising that the service was prompt and attentive, without being overbearing, throughout Epicurus' meal.

Epicurus and partner firstly ordered two fruit juices which, unlike in many Indonesian restaurants, turned out to be unsweetened, much to Epicurus' delight.

For starters, Epicurus ordered Tenderloin Beef Carpacio, which is a dish of marinated tenderloin of beef with a green salad, parmesan cheese and balsamic dressing. At Rp 22,900, Epicurus found it to be delicious, cool and refreshing. But those unfamiliar with this dish should be warned that the beef is uncooked.

Epicurus' partner settled for the Cajun Calamari, which was described in the menu as deep fried squid with tartar and chili sauce. While Epicurus' partner was reasonably satisfied with the food itself, she wondered why it was necessary to describe it as "Cajun" as most of the flavors associated with Cajun cuisine were noticeably absent.

For the soup course, Epicurus elected for the Bouilabaise (Rp 23,900), a traditional French seafood soup containing crab, whelks, other assorted mollusks and fish itself. Epicurus found it to be both satisfying and delicious, and very reminiscent of many of the seafood soups Epicurus had savored in France's Basque country many years before.

For her part, Epicurus' partner settled for the Wayang Mushroom Cappucino (Rp 20,900), a rich and creamy mushroom soup that she professed to be delicious.

As an entree, Epicurus went for the Sirloin Steak (180g) which, according to the menu, was served with a choice of mushroom, barbecue or black pepper sauce. The waitress, however, somewhat negligently omitted to inquire as to Epicurus' preferred sauce and also failed to ask how Epicurus would like the steak. Epicurus, forgetfully, also neglected to specify the preferences and the waitress made no subsequent attempt to clear the matter up.

The steak eventually arrived rare and served with mushroom sauce. Epicurus at the time couldn't help wondering whether such negligence was characteristic of the Wayang Restaurant (as later appeared to be the case) or was merely an aberration.

Nevertheless, despite these faux pas on the part of the waitress, Epicurus was well satisfied with the steak which turned out to be lean, juicy and tender.

However, the afternoon was thoroughly spoiled for Epicurus' partner with the first bite of her Veal Schnitzel (Rp 40,900), a breaded veal scallop served with (rather ordinary) French fries and (equally ordinary) grilled asparagus. The Schnitzel turned out to be completely inedible, if not actually toxic. Upon Epicurus summoning the waitress and lodging a complaint, she disappeared into the kitchen to fetch the chef who seemed to be a somewhat timorous soul and took his time before conjuring up enough courage to present himself at Epicurus' table. After profuse apologies and much hand-wringing, he eventually retreated back into his kitchen leaving Epicurus and partner to make the best of what was left of their meal.

Five minutes later, the waitress returned and confirmed Epicurus' worst fears. Yes, indeed, the bread crumbs used to coat the schnitzel were off. The waitress offered a complementary fruit basket and some candies by way of making up for the disaster and Epicurus somewhat cautiously accepted the gesture.

Upon departing, Epicurus wondered what would have happened if Epicurus' partner had fallen ill (which thankfully did not happen) as a result of the restaurant's negligence. Would appropriate compensation have been paid? Probably not, especially given the fact that Epicurus was still charged for the barely touched Schnitzel. Epicurus and partner were definitely far from being satisfied customers upon leaving the Wayang Restaurant.

-- Epicurus