Wed, 05 Nov 1997

In search of tranquility, intimacy at Kafe Galeri

Starting with its self-explanatory name, Kafe Galeri is an unusual cafe, offering a touch of culture to the R&R concept that, alas, hasn't yet become a norm here.

For a while, it remained staunchly an art gallery and a cafe, until recent refurbishment brought an additional furniture showroom and a diminutive book corner selling selected art books.

Its owner, Josephine Linggar, is a renowned naturalist painter whose elegant works can be found in the establishment's least- conspicuous corners.

But what also makes the cafe distinctive is its vernacular solution to our dining culture.

Situated on Jl. Kemang Timur No. 56, Kemang, Jakarta Selatan, Kafe Galeri showcases tropical architecture at its best: natural materials, earth colors, wooden beams, pitched roofs, breezy open-door areas, and an exquisite garden.

Epicurus is a frequenter at Kafe Galeri, though the urge to write about it only came last week, when a simple need to unwind became, as usual, a protracted exercise at heavenly indolence.

It was early afternoon, and Jakarta's smothering humidity had become unbearable on the cluttered streets of Kemang.

For a while, we sought sanctuary in the air-conditioned part of the cafe -- two human beings in a sea of art.

Soon, our thirst was quenched by the establishment's time- tested beverages: Galeri Ice Coffee, a gourmet tongue-teaser replete with frothy whipped cream and splinters of dark chocolate; and Tropical Breeze, a sassy blend of banana, pineapple and honey.

Knowing the menu by heart presented some problems: before long, one order of a truly delicious Chocolate Truffel cake -- similar to the one found at Kemang's famous Coterie Cafe -- stared up at us in all its cholesterol-infested glory.

After a while, things got too sedate.

Dusk was settling in, and light jazz had suddenly morphed into the Baroque masters. The outdoor patio, a breezy Balinese-styled refuge within a walled compound, looked resplendent in intimate lighting.

Palm trees, lotus ponds, statuary ornaments and lush foliage made a delicate visual symphony. We went outside and sat at a table underneath those wonderful big white parasols next to the air-conditioned bar.

Now we were outsiders looking in.

As more people filed into the gallery, the scent of garlic and oil started to intrude upon the seamless fusion of art and nature.

We indulged in some people-watching, quietly monitoring their movements through a wide glass door as they ogled at various objets d'art.

There was something very sensual about watching art lovers from this vantage point. Soon we were decidedly hungry.

Attracting a waitress' attention, however, was often hard labor.

Looking quaint in their checked aprons, they tended to move in the same pendulous, reverie-like rhythm, entirely oblivious of idle diners contemplating dinner as a second round.

They were also intimidated by slight deviations in the standard ordering process.

Thus, our second order came first: Fried Kway Teow, Malaysian Curry Chicken with Roti Jala and two orders of Aqua.

Our first order came second: some liquid insect repellent, delivered in a somewhat blustery, apologetic manner.

Our said choices have remained consistently tasty over the year, especially the famous Curry Chicken with Roti Jala, which has found its way into many a home party.

These days, a heavier hand on Singapore's famous black sauce could do the kway teow some good, but its punchy homemade sweet chili sauce accompaniment more than compensates for its slightly conservative taste.

Kafe Galeri's limited but thoughtful menu is drawn primarily from Singapore; boasting the two said dishes, and the likes of Gallery Sesame Noodles, Kway Teow with Gravy, Singaporean Fried Rice, and Beef or Chicken in Green Pepper sauce.

Western selections comprise the standard variations of steak, and the ubiquitous spaghetti bolognaise and lamb chops.

Weight-watchers may opt to choose from a variety of salads, which include Greek, Hawaiian chicken, tuna, and fruit salad.

Previous visits have given us a taste of Gallery Sesame Noodles and Beef in Green Pepper sauce.

Both are hearty exercises in oyster sauce and sesame oil: a tad starchy but good taste for good value.

The nicest aspect is the price: main courses usually remain within the Rp 6,000 to Rp 7,000 mark and the highest price for a steak is Rp 23,000.

Situated amid a cluster of art shops, and within spitting distance from the hustle and bustle of Jl. Kemang Raya, Kafe Galeri more than simply heeds Kemang's reputation as an artsy place.

It sets a standard, which -- to date -- seems to appeal more to those in search of graceful tranquility and romantic intimacy.

-- Epicurus