Kaiseki ryori, Japan's finest culinary art

Maria Endah Hulupi The Jakarta Post Jakarta

Kaiseki ryori, or the kaiseki dish, is about delicious food and works of art, which reflects the mastery of Zen philosophy in Japan's highest form of culinary art.

The word kaiseki consists of two nouns kai, from kaichu (a pocket, like those found on traditional Buddhist monks' robes) and seki (stone). Kaiseki refers to an old habit introduced by Buddhist monks, whereby they carried a hot stone in their pocket to curb hunger when fasting.

Kaiseki has been practiced since the Kamakura era in the 13th century and has developed into the finest Japanese set menu served during lunch and dinner.

Originally a simple diet for vegetarian Buddhist monks, kaiseki consists of a bowl of hot clear soup and three kinds of vegetables, preceding the tea ceremony. The latter was consumed to stop drowsiness after meditation.

The tea ceremony was adopted by the Japanese nobles who also added several other foods to reduce hunger and enjoy the tea more. This became the menu that later evolved into kaiseki.

In the Muromachi period between the 15th and 16th centuries, during which other forms of art, religion and social values further flourished, the tradition was also accepted by other elite societal groups and later became very popular among Japanese commoners.

Kaiseki portrays the closeness of Zen philosophy with nature. Cooks pay special attention to selecting the ingredients, preserving and combining the fresh flavors and presenting the dishes artistically.

The Kaiseki cooks are those who have mastered the knowledge of the harvest time of various ingredients and what varieties of fish are in season, all of which they combine to create the meal.

The Kaiseki dish consists of three, five or seven small courses. According to the centuries-old philosophy, eating too much food is not good for one's health, while Japanese also believe that having just enough food enables them to enjoy tea better.

"The aim is to induce the feeling of fullness without being bloated at the end of the meal," said chef H. Takahashi of Kyoka Japanese restaurant and photo gallery. Takahashi was entrusted to prepare the food for the Japanese Emperor during his visit to Indonesia in October 1993.

Aside from consisting of an odd number of courses, each course also contains an uneven number of food elements, representing asymmetrical balance and Zen simplicity.

Inspired by Zen's balance and harmony with nature, Takahashi said kaiseki cooks also have other considerations regarding the combination of fresh seasonal flavors, including the color of foods to best reflect the season, the texture of ingredients, dining ware and the drink that should accompany the dishes.

He added that, in April kaiseki is savored while enjoying the blossoming sakura flowers, while in September, the set menu is prepared in harmony with the full moon.

The expertise and profound considerations applied in preparing kaiseki explain why it is also known as omakase kaiseki, or kaiseki based on the master's recommendation.

There are characteristics that distinguish kaiseki of western Japan, which is centered in Kyoto, to those served in eastern Japan, based in Tokyo.

"Kaiseki in eastern Japan is more salty, with a darker soya sauce. While in western Japan the dishes are more natural in taste and color," he explained.

According to Takahashi, many younger cooks study the Kyoto- style because various Japanese art forms have been flourishing in the city for centuries.

Zen philosophy is also evident in the food presentation, making kaiseki a feast for the palate and the eyes. Kaiseki cooks treat the serving plate like a canvas, the food like paints and the chopsticks like a paintbrush.

The cooks will display their artistic interpretation of nature, like a mountain, the sea, land or snow, when they skillfully arrange the food elements on a serving dish.

"The plate is also the medium for the chef to materialize their artistic ideas. Besides, good presentation would surely induce appetite," Takahashi pointed out.

Unlike other cuisines which offer hot and spicy food, Japanese kaiseki presents light delicacies that highlight the ingredients' naturally delicious flavors, usually accompanied with several kinds of sauce.

"We don't use too many spices when cooking because Japanese people greatly appreciate natural flavors, obtained only in fresh ingredients." he said, adding that the flavor of fresh ingredients is a symbol of the authentic Japanese flavor.

Kaiseki cooks, he said, can also use local ingredients to suit the local palate. "The most important thing is to use fresh vegetables, fish and other ingredients because they can provide the best natural flavor," he said.

Kaiseki is served at Kyoka Japanese restaurant in Bapindo Plaza I, 27th floor, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 54-55. Prices range between Rp 300,000 and Rp 700,000. For more information call (021) 526-6688.