Kaiseki ryori, Japan's finest culinary art

Kaiseki ryori, Japan's finest culinary art

Maria Endah Hulupi
The Jakarta Post
Jakarta

Kaiseki ryori, or the kaiseki dish, is about delicious food
and works of art, which reflects the mastery of Zen philosophy in
Japan's highest form of culinary art.

The word kaiseki consists of two nouns kai, from kaichu (a
pocket, like those found on traditional Buddhist monks' robes)
and seki (stone). Kaiseki refers to an old habit introduced by
Buddhist monks, whereby they carried a hot stone in their pocket
to curb hunger when fasting.

Kaiseki has been practiced since the Kamakura era in the 13th
century and has developed into the finest Japanese set menu
served during lunch and dinner.

Originally a simple diet for vegetarian Buddhist monks,
kaiseki consists of a bowl of hot clear soup and three kinds of
vegetables, preceding the tea ceremony. The latter was consumed
to stop drowsiness after meditation.

The tea ceremony was adopted by the Japanese nobles who also
added several other foods to reduce hunger and enjoy the tea
more. This became the menu that later evolved into kaiseki.

In the Muromachi period between the 15th and 16th centuries,
during which other forms of art, religion and social values
further flourished, the tradition was also accepted by other
elite societal groups and later became very popular among
Japanese commoners.

Kaiseki portrays the closeness of Zen philosophy with nature.
Cooks pay special attention to selecting the ingredients,
preserving and combining the fresh flavors and presenting the
dishes artistically.

The Kaiseki cooks are those who have mastered the knowledge of
the harvest time of various ingredients and what varieties of
fish are in season, all of which they combine to create the meal.

The Kaiseki dish consists of three, five or seven small
courses. According to the centuries-old philosophy, eating too
much food is not good for one's health, while Japanese also
believe that having just enough food enables them to enjoy tea
better.

"The aim is to induce the feeling of fullness without being
bloated at the end of the meal," said chef H. Takahashi of Kyoka
Japanese restaurant and photo gallery. Takahashi was entrusted to
prepare the food for the Japanese Emperor during his visit to
Indonesia in October 1993.

Aside from consisting of an odd number of courses, each course
also contains an uneven number of food elements, representing
asymmetrical balance and Zen simplicity.

Inspired by Zen's balance and harmony with nature, Takahashi
said kaiseki cooks also have other considerations regarding the
combination of fresh seasonal flavors, including the color of
foods to best reflect the season, the texture of ingredients,
dining ware and the drink that should accompany the dishes.

He added that, in April kaiseki is savored while enjoying the
blossoming sakura flowers, while in September, the set menu is
prepared in harmony with the full moon.

The expertise and profound considerations applied in preparing
kaiseki explain why it is also known as omakase kaiseki, or
kaiseki based on the master's recommendation.

There are characteristics that distinguish kaiseki of western
Japan, which is centered in Kyoto, to those served in eastern
Japan, based in Tokyo.

"Kaiseki in eastern Japan is more salty, with a darker soya
sauce. While in western Japan the dishes are more natural in
taste and color," he explained.

According to Takahashi, many younger cooks study the Kyoto-
style because various Japanese art forms have been flourishing in
the city for centuries.

Zen philosophy is also evident in the food presentation,
making kaiseki a feast for the palate and the eyes. Kaiseki cooks
treat the serving plate like a canvas, the food like paints and
the chopsticks like a paintbrush.

The cooks will display their artistic interpretation of
nature, like a mountain, the sea, land or snow, when they
skillfully arrange the food elements on a serving dish.

"The plate is also the medium for the chef to materialize
their artistic ideas. Besides, good presentation would surely
induce appetite," Takahashi pointed out.

Unlike other cuisines which offer hot and spicy food, Japanese
kaiseki presents light delicacies that highlight the ingredients'
naturally delicious flavors, usually accompanied with several
kinds of sauce.

"We don't use too many spices when cooking because Japanese
people greatly appreciate natural flavors, obtained only in fresh
ingredients." he said, adding that the flavor of fresh
ingredients is a symbol of the authentic Japanese flavor.

Kaiseki cooks, he said, can also use local ingredients to suit
the local palate. "The most important thing is to use fresh
vegetables, fish and other ingredients because they can provide
the best natural flavor," he said.

Kaiseki is served at Kyoka Japanese restaurant in Bapindo
Plaza I, 27th floor, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 54-55. Prices range
between Rp 300,000 and Rp 700,000. For more information call
(021) 526-6688.