Ice goes on the block at jewelry auctions
By Rita A. Widiadana
JAKARTA (JP): Everyone loves adornment, and the height of luxury has always been to be dripping in beautiful jewels.
Mary During Douglas, the first female designer for legendary jeweler Tiffany & Co. in the 1950s and the 1960s, believed designing was more than the creation of a beautiful jewel, but also an expression of individuality and a highly personal form of art.
Douglas worked with deep-hued gemstones such as blue sapphires, emeralds and corals, but was always enchanted by diamonds. Peculiar cuts of jewels and unusual or exotic stones such as obsidian, a glass found in the lava flow of Mount St. Helens in the U.S. after it erupted in 1980, or turquoise from the Shah of Iran's own mines, are common elements in her designs.
Part of her precious collection such as a kunzite, golden beryl, diamond and gold necklace estimated at US$20,000 and $30,000, and a pair of diamond and kunzite ear pendants with interchangeable diamond and amethyst were displayed at the Christie's auction preview at the Regent Jakarta here last week.
The two-day preview and talks, organized by Christie's Jakarta, were packed by local jewelry lovers, celebrities and businesspeople.
Douglas' collection is among the items to be auctioned at Christie's Sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York on Oct. 27 and Oct. 28.
Samuel Teakle, senior vice president and head of Christie's Jewelry Department for North and South America, said during the preview that lots also included piecwes master jewelers of the 1920s and 1930s such as Cartier, Bolvin, Belperron, Tiffany and Black, Starr & Frost.
Teakle said that a splendid Art Deco-style emerald and diamond necklace by Chaumet will likely lead the selection of the outstanding offerings.
The property of Viscount Cowdray will be offered $1 million. Other highlights include a 30.21 carat square-cut diamond appraised at $800,000.
Among the collection will be an 18th century diamond jewelry estimated between $300,000 and $450,000, including a rose-cut diamond necklace and an exquisite diamond and silver bracelet. It belonged to the late Lore and Rudolf Heinemann, famous art dealers.
Teakle said sales of jewelry had increased significantly from season to season and he found Asia a growing market. Christie's will continue previewing the items for auction in other Asian countries such as Malaysia and Singapore.
A day after Christie's jewelry sales, its major competitor Sotheby's will hold a jewelry auction of memorable and historical gems in New York from Oct. 29 to Oct. 30. They were previewed here on Sept. 18 and Sept. 19.
A rare, coveted pearl necklace is estimated at between $700,000 and $800,000. Known as the "jewel of the moon" in ancient Sanskrit, this pearl has reigned as one of the most sought-after gems throughout history. The pearl is purely the product of nature yet it is perfectly spherical, blemish-free and of good color and rich luster.
Sotheby's will also auction a diamond spray brooch set with numerous round and baguette diamonds. The property belonged to Countess Louise de Gama, a descendant of Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese explorer who charted the first sea route from Europe to India.
Other significant collection is an exquisite emerald bead and diamond necklace, once belonging to the late Duchess of Windsor. Before her death, the Duchess sold most of her precious jewels to pay for medical expenses.
There is also a stunning black pearl necklace. The necklace, composed of 25 natural black color pearls and 11.80 carat round diamond, is equally rare, not only because of the beauty of the gem-quality pearls, but also for its size. With pearls of 17.7 and 14.8 mm, this is the largest necklace of its kind to be offered at auction.