'I really dislike people who boast'

Culinary expert William Wongso's passion for food has spiced up the country's restaurant world. The father of two daughters established Vineth bakery in 1985 and is responsible for the stylish William Kafe Artistik, W Sandwich and Grill and William's Fine Dining. The former chief of the Indonesian Culinary Association recently spoke with The Jakarta Post's Maria Endah Hulupi at William Kafe Artistik in Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta.

If you had the choice, what would you be doing now?

I'd be doing what I'm doing now in the gastronomy field. I love to share my passion for food with others because I believe that it's a nonpolitically influenced thing; influenced by religion maybe. But food imposes no barriers on mankind if we try to appreciate other culinary cultures.

What makes you tick?

If you like painting you visit every exhibition and you buy good art. Food is the same for me. But here in Indonesia, public culinary appreciation is still low and people don't travel for food. I do. I enjoy dealing with good food and I appreciate it. I visit places with interesting food.

When I'm overseas I travel a lot. I search high and low in various markets to find interesting items. Every time I visit new places I look for restaurants and, most importantly, traditional markets where the food traditionally comes from.

Do you ever worry about your weight?

I don't eat a lot. I taste a variety of food. Whenever I am invited somewhere I tell the chef beforehand that I only want a taste. We have to appreciate the efforts of those who prepared the food so they won't feel uncomfortable.

What professional characteristic do you most like about yourself?

I share. I share information with friends about new and interesting food and people listen to me. I also share a small piece of beef with them just to let them have a taste and hear their opinion. This (sharing) is how I obtained my skills.

For me, eating is not just an act of swallowing food. When it comes to fine food, you have to know the price, the quality and the taste. I like to educate people to "learn" to enjoy by knowing what they eat, the ingredients and who prepared the dish before being able to enjoy the culinary experience.

What things do you dislike in your business?

I don't like routine or attending too many meetings. This business also involves long work hours. You try to make people happy, to please them. Even on big holidays you still have to work and serve people. I told my children to understand this. On Christmas and Idul Fitri we never get to go anywhere. I get used to it and never plan a vacation to Bali, for example, during public holidays, which I wouldn't enjoy anyway because of overcrowding.

Whom do you admire?

I admire people who are consistent in their field. In gastronomy, I admire nutritionist Tuti Soenardi for her consistency in developing her field by combining good food and healthy food. I can prepare gourmet food but not diet gourmet. And (I also admire) some highly innovative chefs in other countries.

How do you get fresh ideas to create new dishes?

Most of the time it just pops into my head. But reading food magazines can also inspire me to create new dishes in my own way, because I know all the food elements in my head. Sometimes I must be stimulated this way.

What is your idea of good food?

It's about textures, colors, aromas, flavors, balanced complexity and the art of preparation. Food should stimulate all senses. But good food is not enough for me because I need interesting food in order to keep on learning. For that reason, fusion food often creates confusion.

What is your favorite food?

It's something I crave when I wake up in the morning. Something I grew up with and which usually has nostalgic values. I like Pecel Blitar, Soto Sulung, Sate Laler (sate with the meat cut into tiny pieces), Soto Madura. I enjoy eating until I sweat. I believe that every area has its own particular dishes that stand out. We have to learn to appreciate these distinctive flavors.

What was the last book you read?

I don't read much and rarely finish what I read. Recently, I read a book on aphrodisiac food. I read The Man who Ate Everything in the bathroom. I bought a copy of Chocolat even though I've seen the film. I buy a lot of food magazines to inspire me.

What is your favorite movie?

I rarely go to the movies. But as a food practitioner, I enjoy Babette's Feast so much for its detail and Like Water for Chocolate, a story about a girl who expresses her feelings with her cooking, and those who eat the dishes can feel her emotions at the time she cooked them. Meanwhile, Tampopo is informative about how to eat noodles with all the slurping noise. I don't really like Woman on Top because it contains more love scenes (than cooking).

And music?

I like various kinds of music, but I hate loud music. I enjoy classical music, oldies and modern music. I don't stick to one type of music. Sometimes when I enjoy a glass of wine, I wish there were no music. That's why there is no music in my restaurants.

What characteristic do you dislike in other people?

I don't like boasting. Everybody has their positive points, even my sweeper can be praised for something he does well and I appreciate it. But in the food business I try to be polite and never show my dislike when dealing with such people.

What makes you laugh?

I rarely laugh in front of people. I smile more than I laugh. Some people may think that I'm stiff.

And cry?

It's difficult for me to cry. I have dry eyes and no tears. Maybe I need artificial tears to cry.

What is your favorite smell?

I don't wear perfume but I respect those who wear it. It's a very personal thing. But I find it nice whenever I meet a person wearing perfume that fits his or her personality. Otherwise the smells can be disgusting. But again it's very personal.

What makes life worth living?

There are so many things to discover and share with others. I gain more because I share more, and it's reciprocated.

What characteristic do you like in women?

It's not beauty, beauty won't last. I like professional women with a personality, character, dignity and interests in many things. I like being with those who are interested in learning more and have a passion for what they do.

What is the cost of popularity?

Privacy. But I don't mind doing interviews to share my knowledge. Some people will call me later and give me their (knowledge) and I learn something new. Friends can call me every day from morning to evening. I always take their phone calls.

Name three things you value in life?

Honesty, generosity and creativity.

How would you like to be remembered?

You won't be remembered unless you are distinctive in what you've done in the past or you are involved in deeds related to mankind. I hope that whenever people taste something good they will remember me. I want people to call me on the phone and say "I wish you were here with us" and ask my advice.

If the world were going to end in 24 hours, what would you do?

I would carry on with what I'm doing.