Hot but not bothered at popular Manado restaurants

Claudine Frederik, Contributor, Jakarta

Jakarta in the past decade has evolved to something close to a gourmet city. Earlier, the capital's citizens had to adjust with restaurants serving fried rice, fried noodles, soup noodles, not to mention the very popular mie bakso (meatball soup) in various sizes which the locals love so much.

But nowadays, the Jakartans are offered more choices. Food from the various provinces can now be sampled next to European food.

And with the city's vast shopping malls housing equally giant food halls, one is often at a loss if confronted with an array of assorted foods in the overcrowded food courts at weekends.

There is food from nearly every region in the archipelago, from the western tip of Sumatra to the island of Sulawesi. Most of them are still sold in simple kiosks placed on strategic points at busy business centers where people pass in a constant stream.

Take Padang food for example. The West Sumatran culinary has taken the archipelago by storm. But there was a time when Padang food was also unknown to the average Indonesian.

Ranking second in the archipelagic food gallery comes the Manado gourmet.

A little over a decade ago, there were only few restaurants serving Manado food with people from the region as the only patrons.

But it has changed. Manado eateries are mushrooming all over the capital and more are still appearing. Most of the small eateries are concentrated in East Jakarta, catering mostly to low-income people.

They do not come in the range of lavish restaurants where people drop by to relax and languish in the quiet but pleasant, luxurious atmosphere. Fortunately, people of a more enterprising spirit realized that ambience is just as important in the restaurant business.

For those who would want to experience food from the Minahasa can try these recommended places. They are all within easy reach as they are all located in the heart of Jakarta.

Chamoe-Chamoe, Jl. Panglima Polim IX No. 53, Kebayoran, Jakarta Selatan, Tel. 7208294, 7267094; Millenia Building, 2nd floor, Sudirman Central Business District, Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Jakarta 12190, Tel. 5152905, 5152906.

Chamoe-Chamoe means a quick bite. It is more a fish serving restaurant. The main restaurant at Jl. Panglima Polim was established a couple of years ago. It is air-conditioned and not too crowded throughout the week. Clientele is of a mixed nature, with people from most of the Indonesian provinces.

Though food from Manado belongs in the fiery category, Chamoe- Chamoe serves medium-hot food. Besides fish, mostly tuna, smoked tuna and the most common fish type of Indonesia called tude in Manado, it also serves chicken and vegetables cooked in the way of the region. No beef and pork is served.

If you work around the Sudirman CBD, you might want to try the second establishment of Chamoe-Chamoe which has opened recently at Millenia building. But as the place fills up quickly, reservations are recommended here.

Bunaken Indah, Hotel Indonesia, Jl. M.H. Thamrin, Jakarta

Bunaken Indah restaurant located at the side of the swimming pool at Hotel Indonesia where a constant breeze makes air- conditioning quite unnecessary. The place opens around 11 a.m. and closes at 9 p.m.

Guests are usually entertained by an aging singer-come-owner of the place who would sing beautifully regardless her age.

Here, fish is the speciality followed with chicken. The place is closed on Sunday.

Tinoor Asli Manado, Jl. R.P. Soeroso No. 33A, Central Jakarta

The restaurant is the mother of them all. It's the first restaurant in the capital that has served Manado food since the early 70s and it is still there.

The well-established place is quite a feat in a city where businesses come and go as fast as they come.

Tinoor (pronounced teno'or) restaurant is not just a place that serves fish. It also serves food that people from the region like to dig their teeth in.

Most of the dishes are pork dishes cooked in a cooking pot or stuffed in the hollow of bamboo stems. Try the pork satay, a very popular dish among the Manadonese.

No air-conditioning here in this unpresumptuous place, it has ceiling fans though. No crooner is allowed either. People come foremost to eat. Tinoor is open all week long from 11 p.m. till 9 p.m.

Cak' Tu' Ci' Ikan Bakar Manado, Jl. Blora No. 37, Central Jakarta

Cak' Tu' Ci' joins the list of Manado restaurants serving fish dishes. No reservation is necessary here since the place is spacious enough to accommodate many people.

The restaurant serves mostly fish dishes with a few chicken dishes for those patrons who do not like seafood.

In the same row of Cak' Tu' Ci' at Jl. Blora is another fish restaurant, called Ikan Tude Manado restaurant. The place is quite an epitome of Manado restaurants. It is steaming hot due to insufficient fans, but it does not lack customers as they serve very tasty food. Satisfying to please Manadonese taste buds, that is. Open all week long from 11 p.m. to 9 p.m.