Hope springs eternal for jaded ol' Jl. Jaksa

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

Less like a gracious old dame fallen on hard times than a raunchy old hussy gone past her use-by date, Jl. Jaksa has been looking decidedly frayed around the edges of late.

Once a home away from home to hordes of backpackers, these have become a rare breed indeed in Jakarta since the start of the monetary crisis and its associated political upheavals, compounded by the disruptive activities of self-righteous, damnation-spewing brethren who have occasionally threatened the street.

Mind you, all the shake-ups don't seem to have fazed certain grizzled old expatriate goats, mostly heavily bearded, who are so often to be found holding court in Jaksa, bleating forth nonsense about the woes of the world and the price of beer.

And just like any jaded, old crone, Jaksa has started to lose a few of her teeth -- the most recent to go being the late lamented Q-Bar, one of the few places on Jaksa with a bit of savoir faire about it.

But even before Q-Bar's unfortunate demise, Romance (right down at the Jl. K.H. Wahid Hashim end of the drag) had finally given up the ghost -- not clear yet whether permanently -- after years of just about hanging in there, as had Angie's, that old Jaksa backpacker mainstay so beloved of the guidebooks.

But all's not lost and, fortunately, unlike most rouged and painted old hags, Jaksa still possesses the blessed ability to rejuvenate herself.

The latest pub to have opened its doors and provide some hope of redemption is BFC (stands for "Bar Fans' Club") at Jl. Jaksa No. 10 (Tel. 330605). This is actually the first pub you come to as you wander south from Kebon Sirih, and is the successor to the old BFC, which used to be located nearby but had to shift its applecart due to lack of space.

One of the better joints along the drag, it could, however, be said by uncharitable souls to be a bit on the dim and gloomy side. But, with a large Bintang to be had for Rp 13,000 and a JW Black for Rp 22,000, this place has a bright future provided they liven it up a bit, not to mention rectifying the far from ergonomically designed bar stools.

The next extant pub we come to as we meander southward after the virtually moribund bar and restaurant attached to the Margot Hotel is Memories (Jl. Jaksa No. 17, Tel. 3928839). This has never been a particular favorite of mine but, judging by the crowds, it's definitely not lacking in popularity and would appear to have benefited hugely from the closure of Q-Bar just across the street. Live music every night and cheap drink add to its attractions. Open 24 hours, seven days a week, a big bottle of Bintang will cost you Rp 13,000, while a house pouring of whisky will hit you for a very reasonable Rp 22,000.

But like so many of the more basic Jaksa establishments, little thought was given to hygiene or the convenience of ladies when they were building the restrooms -- in many ways a large hole in the ground would be superior to the clogged urinals and malodorous, squat-down toilet (only one) that you'll have to contend with here.

After Memories, we find ourselves at the one-room Ali's Bar (Jl. Jaksa No. 25, Tel. 31900807), a place that has come to resemble a little bit of Africa miraculously transported to the apparently more salubrious climes of Indonesia, despite all of the latter's economic travails.

Business, whatever it might happen to be, must be decidedly good in this neck of the woods judging by the amount of JW Black Label being guzzled down, the flashy clothes and watches on display, and the neverending shouting matches as the West African punters doggedly attempt to communicate on their cell phones amid the din blasting out from the pub's sound system.

On the plus side, however, Ali's does provide the luxury of air-conditioning, and a reasonably clean sit-down toilet. Neither is it expensive. A large Bintang will set you back Rp 14,000, while a JW Black Label will hit you for an eminently reasonable Rp 25,000. They've also got English beer in the form of cans of Boddington's draught (Rp 34,000).

Let's face it, though, Little Lagos is about as far removed from the backpacker hangouts that used to dominate Jaksa as Ambon is from Abuja. But of course, it all keeps the money rolling in, so no one on Jaksa is complaining.

Next up is Papa's Cafe & Restaurant (Jl. Jaksa No. 41, Tel. 323452, open 24 hours, seven days a week), presumably named after its lovable and rotund owner, Mr. Anton, who's about as fatherly a figure as any you're likely to find these days down Jaksa way. Open all night, a Bintang beer will set you back Rp 12,000 (nothing else, other than Guinness, available in the booze stakes).

Once again, though, the restrooms leave a lot to be desired, and the food has always struck me as being rather overpriced (McDonald's combos are cheaper!), if not downright insipid.

Still, not a bad spot all round, populated as it is by quite a crew of friendly expats most nights of the week.

The last watering hole worth its salt before you hit Jl. K.H. Wahid Hashim is the true jewel in Jaksa's currently rather tarnished crown -- Ya-Udah Bistro. More a restaurant than a watering-hole (but most definitely NOT a German bistro), not only is it spick and span, and blessed with decent restrooms, but it also has the cheapest hooch and tastiest chow on the whole drag.

At an incredible Rp 10,000 for a big, cold bottle of Bintang and Rp 22,500 for a glass of Bali's own Hatten red wine, you won't get better value than this anywhere in Indonesia (they even present you with an ice cold towel to freshen up with when you take your seat).

But it's the food that really steals the show here. If you like sausages with your beer, this is the place for you. Strongly recommended!

Note: Credit cards are not generally accepted on Jl. Jaksa