Hitting the trekking trail in pristine Nepal

By Sri Lestari

KATHMANDU (JP): Nepal is a nirvana for outdoor activities enthusiasts and nature lovers. The alluring mountains, hills, valleys, rivers, and jungles are there to be explored. Landlocked between India and Tibet, it spans terrain from subtropical jungle to the icy Himalaya, and contains eight of the world's 10 highest mountains.

Nepal is a nation of simple villages and terrace hillsides -- more than 80 percent of the population lives off the land -- and whether you're trekking, biking or bouncing around in packed buses, sampling this simple lifestyle is perhaps the greatest pleasure of all.

Unfortunately, it's not easy to get a flight to Kathmandu in the peak season. Only two airlines, Singapore and Thai, fly from Jakarta to Kathmandu and bookings should be made well in advance. However, it is relatively simple and fast to get a visa at Kathmandu's Tribhuwan International Airport. Just fill in the visa application form, provide one passport size photo, US$15 and then stand in line. It's that easy.

Everyone touches down in Kathmandu at some point. Even though logistically it makes a good base, you won't necessarily want to spend much time there. The pollution is intolerable and even most policemen on the street wear masks.

Some tourist areas are highly developed, even overdeveloped, but facilities elsewhere are rudimentary. Getting around the city is easiest on foot but biking is fun. One-speed bikes can be rented cheaply for US$1 or $1.5 a day. Taxis and tempo (auto rickshaw) will be your choices for long-distance journeys. Pedal rickshaws are worthwhile for short distance on narrow, crowded streets. Public buses and minibuses are cheap, but slow and extremely crowded.

Finding a place to sleep is not a problem in Nepal. First time visitors might be surprised to learn about hotel room prices, which are extremely low. They range from $2 to more than $100 a night. Bargains are available, especially in the low season.

Guest houses are all over the place. A decent guest house normally charges you $10 for a double bedroom with attached bathroom. The best guest house in Kathmandu is the Kathmandu Guest House, which costs around $20 for a double bedroom.

The famous section of Kathmandu is Thamel. Here are traditional markets along narrow stone cobbled roads, and dark two-storey communal houses with people sitting expressionless as they watch the hustle from upper-storey windows.

"Most people work in the field, so they just work seasonally, after that, they have nothing to do. It's hard to get a job. That's the saddest thing here," said a rickshaw driver.

Another famous place is the Freak Street, located beside the Durbar Square. In the old days, it was the most popular place for hippies because ganja was cheap. "Even now, you still find places to drink with hashish on offer," the driver said.

Bhaktapur, Nepal's most perfectly preserved city, is a must see. Streets are paved with bricks in herringbone and parquet patterns, houses built of bricks and carved wood. "It enjoyed one brief, magnificent renaissance during the shooting of Bernado Bertolucci's 1994 film Little Budhha," Bijaya, a shop owner, said proudly.

Himalayas

Had enough with polluted Kathmandu? Then it is time to set off for the western hill of Pokhara. Pokhara is set beside a lake beneath a canopy of mountain terraces. The Himalayas are so huge that they look close enough to touch.

Go for a day hike to Sarangkot if you have limited time. The cultural interaction on these uncommercialized trails is quite interesting. Climb up early in the morning while the icy Himalaya view is still very clear. Take your time to drink in the villagers' simple lives. Be prepared for children following you asking for candy, pens or money. Don't get upset, though, as they mean no harm. Several restaurants are at the top of the hill.

"Staring at those icy peaks while the wind blows makes you feel like you're living in a different world. It's so serene," said one tourist who keeps coming back to visit Nepal.

On the way back, climb down a different route to the crystal clear lake. Here you can swim or canoe while watching the reflection of the layers of mountains on the surface of the lake at dawn.

Then go cycling or shopping around the lake, both enjoyable. Stop for a while to watch a snake charmer and his cobra as it swirls out of its basket. "Twenty-five rupees, please," the man asked the audience, a bargain for the experience.

Trekking

As most people come to trek, it's rare to see tourist children traveling in Nepal. Trekking is the only way to get to the Himalayas, as opposed to looking at them from a distance, and is by far the best way to experience Nepal's constantly changing land and people-scape. A trek normally lasts for at least a week, but you'll get more out of it if you can set aside two or more weeks.

Trekking is not the only activity Nepal offers. Rafting, cycling and wildlife are also well developed. Of all the outdoor activities on offer in Nepal, rafting probably tops the list for excitement. Nepal's whitewaters are fine for first-timers, and from the river, you can get fresh angles on villages and religious gatherings. Most rafting companies offer a standard three-day trip and provide all camping gear, while some others organize longer trips combined with wildlife spotting.

Most travelers go no further than Chitwan National Park, where endangered Asian one-horned rhinos are easily viewable. Elephant ride, one activity it offers, is quite an experience. Lodge owners and guides often play down the risks associated with tracking wildlife, so as not to scare off business, but you should be careful.

"Since record keeping began in 1979, over 100 people have been killed by rhinos and 20 by tigers," said a park guide. So don't go into the jungle without a guide. But no matter how competent a guide is, he won't be able to locate where all the animals are. Hence, you're responsible for your own safety.

Traveling in Nepal, one of the world's poorest countries, is relatively arduous and time-consuming. But for those willing to go without creature comforts for a few weeks to experience one of the world's most beautiful lands, it is well worth it.