Historically rich Banten eyes tourism for the future

JAKARTA (JP): Archipelagic Indonesia was opulent with distinct kingdoms long before the nation became an republic 54 years ago. One of the leading domains was the Kingdom of Banten, notable for its precious remnants of ancient buildings as well as objects of historical significance manifesting the proliferation of Islam in Java.

With such a historically rich past, Banten's aim is to become a tourism hub, as it is culturally and naturally qualified.

In addition to ventures that include ecotourism, leisure activities, business, adventure opportunities, nature, art and culture, the historical aspect is one of several unique attractions luring visitors to the area. As a matter of fact, Banten does have other attractions, like the pleasing quality of its beaches and nature reserves, a spectacular volcano, endangered species, coral reefs, terrestrial scenery and anthropological and indigenous communities.

Due to its history, Banten has developed many different facets. While there are many areas of conservation and preservation matters, it also has strength in industrial and business sectors. This covers large-scale mining and agriculture- based industries and factories.

History

Banten was one of Java's limited domains in the 16th century and 17th century. People can inspect the ruins of the once great Islamic Kingdom of Banten, in which parts of its splendid royal residence have been restored.

Located on the western tip of Java, Banten was the hub of a commercial empire from the 16th century to the 19th century, originally subject to the Hindu state of Padjadjaran, followed by an independent power under an Islamic sultan. Historians have noted that Banten was the first coastal area where the Dutch arrived to trade in the Asian region, particularly with Indonesia.

Many experts have studied the history of Banten, or the background of the history itself. One of these was Claude Guillot, who said in his book, The Sultanate of Banten, that only a little was known of the vast history of the western part of Java -- the region of Sunda -- of which Banten is part, particularly for the period preceding the coming of Islam.

Other literature states that Banten figured largely in West Java's history as it was a major center for pepper commerce between the Spice Islands and India, and, therefore, it could set up a trading station.

There were two major phases of administrative kingdoms in Banten. The first was located in Banten Girang (12th century to 16th century) and the second was in Surosowan (16th century to 19th century).

Banten Girang became an important center in the western part of Java due to its ideal location as the gateway for the Sunda Strait and Strait of Malacca. Those who governed Banten Girang include Prabu Pucuk Umun and the religion was Hinduism.

In the early l6th century, Java's northern coastline was conquered by powerful Islamic sultans. The Babad Banten (The Chronicle of Banten) says that Sunan Gunung Jati, one of the Wali Songo (10 respected Islamic leaders who first spread Islam in Java), and Maulana Hassanudin from the Demak sultanate annexed Banten Girang and brought Islam to Banten and other areas of West Java.

Islam

During this period, Banten experienced an intense religious and cultural transformation from Hinduism to Islam. Power shifted to an Islamic sultanate led by Maulana Hassanudin. When Islam became the mainstay, the capital was moved from Banten Girang to Surosowan.

Hassanudin became the first sultan in Banten (1552-1570) and was replaced by Maulana Jusuf (1570-1580), who successfully expanded Banten into various remote areas. Banten grew as a megalopolis when Sultan Ageng Tirtayasa ruled the kingdom.

Banten took over the authority from Sunda. Surosowan expanded. The Mesjid Agung (the great mosque) was also expanded. Mesjid Agung, built in the 16th century, is one of the oldest mosques in Asia.

One of Banten's milestones was the arrival of the Dutch.

It is believed the Dutch first reached Banten in 1596 when Maulana Mohammad was in reign.

The Dutch were on a exploration voyage and established the first Dutch settlement on Java. At that time, the fleet was led by Cornelis de Houtman. Jaus Karel, who joined the journey later, recorded that Banten matched or was even superior to Amsterdam in size and importance. By then, Banten had become an important Southeast Asia spice-trading port.

Commerce flourished in Banten. Chinese, British, Dutch, Indian, Portuguese and Turkish traders were traditional travelers at the old Banten harbor in the present-day village of Karangatu, north of Banten. Spices, silk, Chinese ceramics, gold, jewelry and other Asian goods attracted European merchants. Banten became the pioneer in world business.

Then, the Dutch closed ranks, removed and banished the sultan of Banten's forces in 1684 and consolidated their power. It would not have been considered Bantenese if the people had not rebelled against the Dutch. They become notorious known to the colonizing Dutch as "The Aceh of Java".

The Bantenese are still a proud and culturally distinct people. They practice an orthodox form of Islam.

Banten saw 19 kings (sultans), three of them titled Maulana comprising Maulana Hassanudin, Maulana Jusuf and Maulana Mohammad (1580-1596). Other sultans included Abdul Mafakir (1596-1651), Tirtayasa (1651-1672), Sultan Haji (1672-1687). The last ruler was Sultan Muhammad Rafiudin (1813-1820), when the kingdom was split into three administrative areas: Banten Hulu, Banten Hilir and Anyer, which were supervised by landros (a kind of residential head) based in Serang. By then, the Dutch had eliminated the kingdom of Banten.

Civilization

Archeological and historical data show that Banten was one of the largest capitals in Southeast Asia. Archeological studies indicate that there were two major periods of communities and cultures: (1) the pre-Islamic period, which includes the civilization of the "prehistoric" fishermen in Odel and the development of Banten harbor and a local government in Banten Girang (11th century to 15th century); and (2) the Islamic period, which includes the kingdom in Surosowan (16th century to 17th century), colonialism (17th century to 18th century), and the ruin of Banten (19th century).

During the first phase, Banten was marked by two cultural characteristics: Banten as a minor fishing village and Banten as a residential city. Characterizing the area as a minor fishing village was based on an archeological survey in Kampung Odel, where simple wares of fishermen were discovered. The community left cultural achievements like bead work, bronze artifacts and plank quadrangular.

More intensive habitation occurred when Banten harbor became busier, serving the commerce in Sunda Strait. Excavations uncovered ceramics, statues of Nandi, Ganesha and Shiwa and a devotion cave in Banten Girang.

Banten Harbor had become an important core to distribute various commodities within the region of the Sunda Strait and the Strait of Malacca.

The second major phase was the coming of Islam, which was characterized by three key aspects in the expansion of Surosowan. First, from the point of view of construction, structure, design and function of buildings, it can be seen that Banten became an urbanized area. Second, there were two kinds of communities, those living within the center of the capital of Surosowan (intramural) and those living outside (extramural). The dichotomy occurred because of a fort built around the capital. Extramural comprised traders, laborers, fishermen, farmers, newcomers and migrants. The third key was a gradual increase of infrastructure. This included mosques, roads, reservoirs, drainage, water supply, custom and excise and warehouses at the port.

Tourism

With such a background, Banten is home to rich archeological remnants from both periods. These show how important the area was in the past. Although little remains of this bustling seaport, evidence of its former glory still exists and makes a trip to the village on Java's northwest coast a fascinating experience.

Banten, approximately 85 km west of Jakarta, is predicted to become a thriving tourism region just like the country's overwhelmingly popular island of Bali, currently the country's major tourist sphere. Banten might not yet be the most vivid location, but for those keen on history, this former maritime capital provides some alluring insights.

A privately owned company, PT Banten West Java Tourism Development Corporation (BWJ), was incorporated nine years ago with the purpose of developing promising new sites in western Java for tourism and its supporting services. The company holds a concession to develop a 1,500-hectare plot at Tanjung Lesung as a new tourism destination. It is currently inviting major international travel and hospitality industries to jointly develop the ambitious project.

BWJ believes Banten has everything.

An on-site museum provides information about Banten's history and archeological remains and its collection is well-presented and preserved. Visitors can view many treasures, including enormous clay urns, ceramic vases and porcelain from the Ming dynasty.

Mesjid Agung, which was designed by a Dutch Muslim, is a typical representation of early Javanese architecture. There are also the royal graves of seven sultans and their wives, which are located both inside the mosque and in its courtyard.

Nearby is a Chinese temple which was built by a sultan to reward the Chinese, who had helped eliminate malaria from the region. In front of the temple are the ruins of Fort Speelwijk, originally erected by the Banten kingdom but grabbed by the Dutch and modified.

Banten is a large region. It covers more than two million hectares of land, half of the West Java province. It consists of four regencies -- Serang, Pandeglang, Lebak and Tangerang -- and two mayoralties.

Only three hours by car from Jakarta, the Banten region offers idyllic beaches ideal for swimming, snorkeling, fishing, water- skiing and sailing.

Near Banten, off the northwest coast of Java, is the sea-level island of Pulau Dua, within easy reach of Banten's Karanghantu Harbor. Pulau Dua is one of the world's foremost bird inhabited islands.

There is also a great variety and an abundance of wildlife in the national parks of Ujung Kulon and Krakatau. Ujung Kulon has been a protected area for years, since its designation as a national park during Dutch rule in Java. Here, the flora and fauna, including an critically endangered species of mammal -- the Javan rhinoceros, can be observed in virgin rain forests.

The Krakatau volcano remains spectacular. The breathtaking marvel of Anak Rakata island, the offspring of Krakatau, is an active "young" volcano and clearly visible from the mainland.

The Baduy community in Banten is another fascination. Baduy is an utterly unique, indigenous and private community. Some members of this community even refuse to use motor vehicles, and walk distances of up to 150 km to reach their destinations.

The Banten area is also known for its Debus dance performed by religious ascetics known as nayaga, men who can control their level of fear and pain. (I. Christianto)